Simon Timperley Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 Morning All Returning to Triumph-world after many years away having bought a Spit Mk111 as my first car and joined the TSSC nearly 40 years ago. Spent the next 10+ years aquiring less rusty versions, others for spares and a (also rusty) Vitesse Mk11 convertible. I soon came to realise that, in my opinion, the ultimate improvement to the Spitfire is to give it the 6 cylinder engine and eventually my previous aquisitions coallesced into my current Spitfire Mk111 6 cylinder with overdrive, high ratio diff and fettled suspension giving a car that happily keeps up with modern vehicles, much to their surprise! Unfortunately, life got ever busier as it does and 12 years ago the car was parked in a barn and has sat there ever since. Until yesterday, when I was summioned to look at rehousing it. Keen to see how much work might be needed to get it rolling I established that the engine was still turning over, hooked up a battery and fuel, turned the key and - amazingly - it burst into life with barely a cough. Too much life in fact as the reves whizzed up to 3000 (with a fantastic 6 cylinder roar), the throttle mechanism being stuck open. I've never had too much trouble starting it in the past even after lay-ups of a year or two but that really put a smile on my face! So all as positive as possible so far but the next immediate issue is that the clutch and brake cylinders are seized solid so I am keen to hear if anyone has any tips for freeing them off, other than dismantling and rebuild - unless it becomes obvious that they need new seals etc. Should I just try a much harder shove on the pedals or will that cause more problems? All thoughts much appreciated! Simon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 I would strongly advise doing all the hydraulic seals on the car, from masters/slaves through to calipers and wheel cylinders. They are going to be pretty gunged up. Not a terribly expensive job, but may take a day or so. Then good service, general check over, set of new tyres plus new proper fuel hose and see how it gets on with an MoT would be my suggestion. Then maybe a wash,claybar and polish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 trying a hard take off may free things off harsh use of the cluch can cause the disc centre hub /and damping springs to get damaged but a quick start in 1st gear may just unstick the disc just dont gorrila it the best is a strip down an itailan tune up start may work rust can get impregnated in the disc lining and the brake shoes so even when free may not be as good as should . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 As Pete says good chance clutch will be stuck on even once you get the master cylinder working. Then maybe new tyres when youve decided the cars a goer and youre going to keep it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 Yes agreed old tyres black and round thats about it any grip definitely none you can end up in a ditch after getting it running 7 years seems the age limit these days Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 Sure its only going to be a matter of time before tyre age becomes an MOT thing as I believe it already is in Germany.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 I notice you don't mention the brakes, I hope they've been upgraded to GT6? Also, Mintex 11/44 pads are a dramatic improvement to braking, many on here have them. When my car was being restored the clutch froze on and the buggers towed the car to separate it! Fortunately, no damage. Subsequently it's happened to me twice and I've stripped it down to free it. Surprising how little rust on the flywheel can lock it up. As Clive says hydraulic rubbers and of course your clutch and brake fluid will be dishwater by now. As Pete says tyres! Mine are coming up 7 years and hardly worn, I don't want to, but I think I must. I've read it's UV/daylight that adds to deterioration and mine lives in the garage, I might leave it a little longer? Yours hoses will be pretty manky by now, how about Silicone? And maybe Poybushes for the suspension? Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Timperley Posted October 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 Thanks for all the replies so far. Yes, I forgot to mention I have got the bigger brakes. Not concerned about going very specialised with pads etc as just want good everyday usability, not doing anything silly! Agreed there probably will be seals etc to replace but want to get it moving and see what gives as everything was new/refurbedbefore it went away. As mentioned, immediate problem is to get the clutch and brake pedals to move, then, probably, free off the clutch which has always been managed by shocking it in the past. Not sure if it will need an MoT - need to check when the conversion was carried out but could be nearly 30 years ago - amazingly ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 If you are using modern everyday cheapo pads you are in for a shock . If you want to stop check out Mintex . Got the T shirt Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 an mot is the only way to know the brakes are all in balance and doing what you hope they should i wouldnt go far without one . do not go for any green solutions you want it to stop greens make easy clean dust but no friction mintex1144 are pricey but the difference is amazing when its up and running an italian brake test should bed in whats already fitted after yuo have cleaned and anti squealed the old pads mintex ceratek is the latest stuff to use thats hard braking 60 down to 20 three times and then drive to cool do not stop with red hot pads important they cool Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 I’d plan on replacing all clutch and brake cylinders before calling it done/road ready. Chances of them having sat with brake fluid in them for 12 years and not having suffered any corrosion are slim. Especially as they’re seized! With corroded bores a seal kit will work for a little while, then best case you’ll be cleaning brake fluid off your shoes and bulkhead shortly after. If you want to keep the originals a master cylinder professional refurb is the way to go so the bores are properly inspected/cleaned/sleeved as appropriate. Callipers can generally be had on exchange. Rear wheel and clutch slave cylinders, I’d just get new. The clutch is a pain to get to, and not worth messing about when it comes to brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foshi Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 tip for the clutch that always worked for me run the engine up to temperature then jam the clutch pedal l down and leave over night usually frees it off paul 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 12 minutes ago, Josef said: I’d plan on replacing all clutch and brake cylinders before calling it done/road ready. Chances of them having sat with brake fluid in them for 12 years and not having suffered any corrosion are slim. Especially as they’re seized! With corroded bores a seal kit will work for a little while, then best case you’ll be cleaning brake fluid off your shoes and bulkhead shortly after. If you want to keep the originals a master cylinder professional refurb is the way to go so the bores are properly inspected/cleaned/sleeved as appropriate. Callipers can generally be had on exchange. Rear wheel and clutch slave cylinders, I’d just get new. The clutch is a pain to get to, and not worth messing about when it comes to brakes. Check that the larger brake master cylinder from the 6 cylinder cars was used in the original upgrade to match the calipers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Timperley Posted October 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 10 minutes ago, johny said: Check that the larger brake master cylinder from the 6 cylinder cars was used in the original upgrade to match the calipers? I don't remember changing it at the upgrade but it always was larger and has worked fine for years - thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 I believe the Mk3 Spitfire had the larger reservoir as standard but with the 5/8" bore to suit type 14 calipers. The Vitesse and GT6 with type 16 calipers had the same large reservoir but a bigger bore (0.7" rings a bell but that's probably been rounded from 11/16"). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 Thats it 0.7 and Ive now gone up from that to the 0.75 used on the last of the GT6👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Timperley Posted October 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 You live and learn - thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 11, 2022 Report Share Posted October 11, 2022 On 10/10/2022 at 17:18, johny said: Thats it 0.7 and Ive now gone up from that to the 0.75 used on the last of the GT6👍 How did you get on with the rear cylinders? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 11, 2022 Report Share Posted October 11, 2022 Rear left as standard and all works well but with less pedal travel👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted October 11, 2022 Report Share Posted October 11, 2022 I thought I had a problem with my 0.75" and installed a spare 0.7" the pedal travel increased by 2", couldn't get it any better. Fortunately, the MC wasn't the problem and I put the 0.75" back. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Yes it can be a useful modification especially if you have added a servo to the system as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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