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A new TriumphanteeršŸ˜€


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Battery is definitely in the boot. Can anyone tell me how Ican judge if the cable is the correct size? Yes, I will be spending an awful lot of time learning about the good and bad points on the car and probably even more time trying to sort it out. One of my first jobs will be to inspect the fuel lines and find out what changes need to be made for E10 /E5 fuel. Previous owner was lucky to live in an area where 4star was being imported until very recently.

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What does the installation look like? Battery held properly in place on a battery tray or even box bolted into place in the boot? The connection lugs at each each nicely crimped or soldered on? It might say on the cable its size or you can measure the outside diameter and look it up to find the cross sectional area of the copper inside and so the current carrying capacity.

The ultimate test of course is if the cable or any of its connections get warm during a good crank of the enginešŸ˜²

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9 hours ago, Puglet1 said:

Can anyone tell me how Ican judge if the cable is the correct size?

Worth a look at AutoElectricSupplies pgae https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/752/category/124

A standard Lucas starter motor on 'our' cars has a free running current draw of 60amps but on cold cranking could transiently peak at 300amp or so. But only transiently.

So a cable with 10 to 12mm o.d. would be well specified for the job. Less than 8mm would be worrisome.

Empirical test is to get an assistant to crank the engine while feeling the cable. If it gets hot to the touch then it's too skinny.

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Johny. During initial inspection the battery was very secure and strapped down firmly. I will do an in depth inspection of it when I collect the car next week.

chrishawley. Fantastic information- just what I need to help understand if itā€™s ok or not. The link to the AES site was also very helpful.

dougbgt6. The brakes felt absolutely fine. Once I collect the car Iā€™ll be able to test them more thoroughly.

Thanks all for your help.

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That looks a lovely original Vitesse and a very late one too, the Leyland Logo badges on your front wings where only fitted on the 1971 manufactured Herald/Vitesse's.

I bet your new car also as a Steering lock fitted too, which again became a legal requirement for 1971 manufactured UK Cars, check the commission number on the left of the front bulkhead, the last one made was HC58109CV, I'm sure you will find the number is not far from the end of productionĀ  Ā 

With regards to your query on the size of the cable from the rear Battery to the starter, my current Classic also as the Battery in the boot, I'm in the Electrical business and would guess the cable on my car is approximately 40mm2 Ā cableĀ size on the chart given by Chris, this will be fine for your car, just make sure it is routed out of the way of possible damage and securely clipped in place.

Any crimped lug connections for the Starter Solenoid and Motor connections should be done with the correct crimping tool and have the correct hole size, 8mm if I remember correctly, all connection to be clean and tight for a low resistance connection.

I look forward to seeing more photo's

Regards

Gary

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2 hours ago, NonMember said:

I assume you mean the 40mm^2 or 12.7mm OD size? 40mm OD would be huge!

Yes

I was referring to the cable size not overall diameter, I missed the square size symbol out

I'm used to dealing with AC cable sizes 25mm2 35mm2 etc, the automotive sizes are slightly different for some reason.

Regards

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A Girling Power stop type servo was an Original optional extra for the 2 Litre Vitesse's.

My car had one fitted, although not originally, I can remember getting the servo off a Bond Equipe 2 Litre in a local scrapyard in the mid 1980's with a guy called John Gregory one of the previous owners of my old Vitesse

When I rebuilt the car, I had it refurbished and this photo shows the original fitment location resting side on over the Clutch Master cylinder (I can't find any photo's of it fitted)

The two mounting brackets for the servo are visible, these were taken off the Bond with the servo and are presumably part of the original factory fitment.

Gary

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Engine Bay 1.JPG

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So many options for the servo positioning. Gary - I guess the chance of finding aĀ Girling power stop will be remote? I particularly like the Pete Lewis option. Once I get to know the car I might think about moving the battery back to the engine compartment. Some great looking engine bays there šŸ‘

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48 minutes ago, Puglet1 said:

So many options for the servo positioning. Gary - I guess the chance of finding aĀ Girling power stop will be remote? I particularly like the Pete Lewis option. Once I get to know the car I might think about moving the battery back to the engine compartment. Some great looking engine bays there šŸ‘

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Here's one, not cheap but the same type and size as was fitted on my car?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325534930143?hash=item4bcb64d4df:g:B~0AAOSwnGlfnzI5&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOMaZmbZp%2FM%2BQ58kbKCbncL9j2T5%2FKkQilupIBLq9Gpai3%2F2RvV1W6DD5pMt%2BgBLhD1NCRjrxiz%2BfV6T0Uze91iBwfP%2FnHYKeIjs%2FvxA6dRZhcEOB078qXaNH2HAdve5IprB2ZuiVmj%2FRDZzNLXQJ9gcoxAdwhC8cLU%2Be1hyOzzQU6OCCWRx82ywF%2FSkyGJ0FcZ1W07hPrrMqAY8A99ckfs%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9ykrLnQYQ

I have one of the Repro Lockheed type Servo's fitted on my current car and it's been fine so far.

Regards

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