Pete Lewis Posted April 16, 2023 Report Share Posted April 16, 2023 Pinking happens with the spark being too advanced the combustion sets up a tin can tinkling rattle from the piston generally when in a high gear under load makes quite a clatter easily hear with the radio off and the ears open low grade fuel will do it quite easily Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted April 16, 2023 Report Share Posted April 16, 2023 7 hours ago, Pettifordo said: What does this sound like ? Like a very hot exhaust cooling down. A constant tinkling sound when the engine is under load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stratton Jimmer Posted April 17, 2023 Report Share Posted April 17, 2023 It was the rotor arm that did for me a couple of weeks back when out in the GT6. Fourteen miles with no problem then suddenly no spark at the plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 17, 2023 Report Share Posted April 17, 2023 Yes many people assume LT problem but really worth checking HT at coil output first to quickly narrow down the search.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekS Posted April 17, 2023 Report Share Posted April 17, 2023 I had a problem some years back with poor starting and an intermittent misfire, (Spitfire1500 ) it was only by sheer luck that I had the bonnet up and noticed that when the engine hiccupped there was a noticeable cracking noise. It turned out to be a complete break in the core of the king lead from coil to distributor, I don't know what caused it but refitting the old one which I'd kept just in case cured the problem. Derek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 17, 2023 Report Share Posted April 17, 2023 I had a misfire issue with my Dolly Sprint with all the HT leads when I got it 8 years ago I purchased a set of new HT leads with the proper long plug caps ex UK they were graphite/carbon filled & fitted in the small 7mm dizzy cap side entry holes. I just unscrewed the tapered screws holding the old leads in the cap and replaced the new leads screwing the tapered screws thro the cable and carbon/graphite filling. all was OK for a couple of drives then the misfire started, upon stripping the dizzy cap down I eventually noticed burning where the tapered screw went thro the cable, this investigation unfortunately took a couple of weeks of pulling my hair out! After determining the cause I pushed a thin strip of brass up the inner carbon core and bent it back over the outside of the cable, pushed that up the dizzy cap holes and used a flat ended screw to clamp the cable into the cap no penetration of the cable, it required fine alignment of the brass strip and screw. No more misfires and still good many years after. An old hand was looking at the arrangement and advised me to hold the graphite cables as if they flapped around the core could break causing a misfire so obviously I made HT cable clips to stop any excessive movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pettifordo Posted April 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 I fitted the Accuspark and it worked…..then didn’t work….then worked When it didn’t work the engine was struggling to even turn over and the rev counter was going bonkers….. Anyone got any ideas what could be going wrong ? Also what does the cloth covered wire in the dizzy do ? It was under the condenser - so I still need it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted April 18, 2023 Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 I’m not completely certain, but this feels like the equivalent of the points shorting (the coil -ve being earthed at the wrong time) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pettifordo Posted April 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 50 minutes ago, Josef said: feels like the equivalent of the points shorting Thanks - I will check all the connections again - I think I will replace the earth wire to the coil as it has those dodgy blue connectors 😱 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 18, 2023 Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 1 hour ago, Pettifordo said: Also what does the cloth covered wire in the dizzy do ? It was under the condenser - so I still need it ? That sounds like the critical wire to earth the dizzy backplate while allowing it to move. This is still needed with the Accuspark which must have its base earthed to function. Be careful with the unit as, unlike points, if installed incorrectly you run the risk of knackering it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 19, 2023 Report Share Posted April 19, 2023 that braided wire is essential it makes the moving base plate earth to the case as you cant rely on the two part base plate making its own contact having recently been plagued with accuspark units failing i have resevations about them many are used quite successfully , but there are others with odd problems Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pettifordo Posted April 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2023 I think I have found the problem with the ignition - a dodgy negative wire from the coil to the dizzy. The PO had fitted one that had those blue crimp spade connectors. Having determined that the strange intermittent issue I was having with the Accuspark was probably connected to a dodgy Earth connection - thanks @Josef I just soldered on 2 new connectors and took her for a drive - runs very nicely. That probably means I didn’t need the following :- 1) Accuspark 2) Coil 3) Buy Colortune to check mixture 4) Buy timing light to check timing 5) I also suspect I didn’t need a new dizzy cap or rotor arm 🤞🤞 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted April 20, 2023 Report Share Posted April 20, 2023 At least you've found it. I had a very similar issue. The same cable had a spade connector, mid point. It would be OK at idle, start missing after a few miles. Replaced with a soldered joint and bingo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pettifordo Posted April 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2023 2 hours ago, AlanT said: spade connector, mid point Mine still has a spade connector mid point…..would a bullet connector be better ? Or should I just solder the spade connector together ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pettifordo Posted April 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2023 22 hours ago, Pettifordo said: That probably means I didn’t need the following :- I forgot the fuel pump that I also replaced and then found out that the replacement leaked fuel all over the starter motor 😩😩😩 I didn’t try to find out where the problem was - I just added the old one back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 20, 2023 Report Share Posted April 20, 2023 Pinking is a sort of ting! ting! ting! noise, a tack nail rattling in a tin. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted April 20, 2023 Report Share Posted April 20, 2023 1 hour ago, Pettifordo said: Mine still has a spade connector mid point…..would a bullet connector be better ? Or should I just solder the spade connector together ? I cut off the connector & soldered the two wires together; tightly covered in electrical tape. The mid point connector has no value and is an obvious candidate for getting lose over time / damp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted April 20, 2023 Report Share Posted April 20, 2023 On 13/04/2023 at 09:17, Pete Lewis said: not much you can do to test a cap maybe a look in the dark for stray sparking any rotor witha rivet in the sweep contact are prone to fail as the spark will jump from the rivet to the shaft condensers are often fake and have very little inside see the dizzy docs review Delco condenser: RD7774, CD369, 829111,829107,1861709,1866049,18655972, 1869704,1882239, Lucas Condenser 484249, 400308, 407044, 54411935 / DCB105, 54413006, 23D4 22D 23D DM2 25D DM6 DM4 lucas distributor, Lucas condenser number 423871, GDC101. Condensor 405833 for Ford 8 and Ford 10, Lucas condensers from Distributor Doctor pete I have a quite expensive multi-meter that will measure capacitors in Picofarads, nanofarads or microfarads. Cost £150 in 1997 made by Tektronix. Even so, it can be fooled by breakdown at high voltages. Arcing points is a sign of a capacitor with low or no capacitance. An Oscilloscope and signal generator are the best tools if you can find and know how to use them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pettifordo Posted April 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2023 (edited) Just got myself a lesson in carb tuning from Mark Smith who runs the new South Warwickshire TSSC Area. He took me through the whole process top to bottom :- Checked for air leaks Check for unrestricted rise and fall of carb jets Started engine running (was already at operating temp) Looks at carb balance by eye and adjusted tick over screws to get balanced Used flow meter to tweak further at idle Increased revs to 2500 and check balance again. Tweaked the linkage between carbs to make sure balanced. Lifted carb jet by a few millimetres to listen to engine / decrease revs = too lean / no change = just right / increase revs = too rich (thanks to @Pete Lewis for correction) Anti clockwise on the jet adjuster to make richer, clockwise to lean - do one flat at a time Engaged choke so revs increased and balanced carbs again Listened to the exhaust for pops (too lean) or smelling too much petrol (too rich) Took her for a test drive 👍 Edited April 23, 2023 by Pettifordo Correction from @pete Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 22, 2023 Report Share Posted April 22, 2023 19 minutes ago, Pettifordo said: decrease revs = too lean / no change = too rich thats not quite right raising the air piston a few mm is fine but you are looking/listening for a hint of change so if the revs drop by about 50 rpm for a few seconds its lean if it raises idle by 50rpm its rich if the lift has no real effect its spot on its a very light touchy feely pin lift , yank it up and its will just stall small detail but youre on the right track Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pettifordo Posted April 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: if it raises idle by 50rpm its rich Thanks @Pete Lewis that make sense - I guess if it is rich and you let in more air you get a bigger bang as the “excess” fuel is burned 👍👍 Edited April 22, 2023 by Pettifordo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pettifordo Posted April 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2023 Just went out to put the car away after my great drive home from Mark’s and the car wouldn’t start. Seems like the Accuspark Electronic Ignition had failed after 15 miles 😩😩 popped the old points and condenser back in and it worked fine - just need to adjust the timing again 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted April 22, 2023 Report Share Posted April 22, 2023 18 minutes ago, Pettifordo said: ms like the Accuspark Electronic Ignition had failed after 15 miles 😩😩 Your not the only one who's had issues with accuspark. Got that T shirt some time ago now!! Aidan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 22, 2023 Report Share Posted April 22, 2023 As a double check of the Accuspark unit you can test it manually by connecting the red wire to a 12v battery +ve, the unit backplate to the -ve and then put a meter. set to resistance, on the black wire and -ve terminal. Now when you pass the magnetic trigger head across the face of the unit you should see a momentary change in resistance as it switches on... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 23, 2023 Report Share Posted April 23, 2023 Accuspark units are certainly an economical fix the base units seem well made but there are too many reliability issues whilst you get what you pay for the mechanicals seem better than the electronic modules I have only played with one used to replace a failed 123 and it took accu to provide a replacement module good /quick service but we need these things to Work Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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