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Revolving ingition switch!


SpitfireGeorge

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The bezel can only tighten down so far. There’s also a nut, or there should be, on the same threads as the bezel that needs to be set right for the thickness of the dash. There may also be a spiked ring to dig into the wood of the dash, in that case you’re tightening the nut to hold the ring close enough to the dash so that tightening the bezel exerts pressure on the spikes. 

IMG_1425.jpeg

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8 hours ago, daverclasper said:

Hi. I'm assuming the pic on the right is the correct position for the spikey washer?

I think it’ll depend on the thickness of the dash. As far as I remember the left hand one came straight off a 13/60 dash so it might be ‘right’.

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11 hours ago, johny said:

According to my manual the left one in the pic is the correct installation. You only want the tips of the lock washer teeth to grip the dash facia plus there are flats on the threaded portion to engage with the hole it fits in....

As Josef says it will depend on the thickness of the dash. The one on the left cannot adjust the position of the toothed plate, so it may not grip the wood enough to prevent the ignition switch spinning. The right-hand version can tighten the grips into the wood by turning the brass nut; as has already been posted the bezel only tightens until it's flush and any other tightening / adjustment is only possible from in behind.

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I nipped out to the garage just now to check what my spares are like; all of my undismantled ignition keys have the clawed bracket first, then the nut. Interesting! I had thought the nut would tighten into the back of the dash, but it seems the clawed plate is merely shimmed against the switch body as required. There is one other variation; bottom right in the photo is a sprung plate that I'll guess holds the switch against the wood by pressure rather than claws. The bottom left version is one I made for a modified dash many years ago and it screwed into place. No idea what the small top centre one is for, too small for an ignition key!

                                                                                                IMG_5677.jpeg.cea9ab716e83ebeb5beb52ef02db62c5.jpeg

Here's a spooky thing, though... it's got me totally confused.

The key and ignition switch I'm using is the original from my 13/60 and is being replaced as original using the keys that came with the car. I dismantled it recently to make it fit the modified dashboard and removed a number of shims from between the clawed plate and the switch body which were yellow cardboard; close inspection shows the word Kelloggs...

                                                                                                   IMG_5679.jpeg.47eb129b50b8db72a17789fb224e8359.jpeg

No problem, it was done by a PO using materials he had to hand. That's the two on the left, with the centre one being in behind the clawed plate I've just this minute removed to take the top photo. Now, here's the strange part: the one on the right is from a 1200 switch that's been in my spares pile for many years, and which i just removed earlier tonight to add the earlier components to that top photo.

SO: how on earth do pieces of what looks like the same cereal box end up being used as ignition switch shims in two cars that never met over their entire lives, one I've owned since 2007 and the other only since 2021? Work that one out...

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Very Weird but there again Colin I thought ALL Heralds of all variations had passed thro your hands at some time in their lives!!  I'll get my Hat!

Must look to see if the plate is attached and how to my 68 Vitesse which I've had since 70 and would be original still the same ignition and key tho very thin now!

 

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10 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

Must look to see if the plate is attached and how to my 68 Vitesse which I've had since 70 and would be original still the same ignition and key tho very thin now!

Check if it's using the same cornflakes box as a shim. We may be able to reconstruct the entire box if we use enough cars.

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20 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Check if it's using the same cornflakes box as a shim.

A word of warning: don't try it with modern cornflake boxes as I'm sure the quality of the cardboard will be nowhere near as good as the 'old stock' 😁

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Had this problem with my switch. Unscrewed the chrome nut, dropped the switch down from behind the dash, rotated the nut half a turn out and replaced all. Needs a special tool to tighten. I used long nose pliars within a tubular box spanner. Very easy to slip off and gouge. So far, no more rotating.

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18 hours ago, SpitfireGeorge said:

Hi Guys, Thanks for the replies. I do not have the washer, what is it called so I can order it? Rimmer's do not have it mentioned in their catalogue.

Cheers

Brett

It’s readily apparent from the pictures Colin has posted that the clawed washer is a square of steel with the corners bent up and a hole in the middle. So easy enough to make! (If it’s not something you have the materials on hand for I’m sure I can knock one up at the weekend and stick it in the post for a charity donation).

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