Beware PRO Tap Splice Connectors

[Stratton Jimmer]

After using the Sixfire without a hitch over the last two days, I was heading for Castle Combe today where the TR Register were having a track day. Only got half a mile when a wisp of smoke appeared from under the steering column. Pulled up in my local pubs car park and had a look.

Undid the two screws to drop the shroud and reveal the wiring to the ignition switch. Something there was very hot and it turned out to be a joint made by a PRO Tap Splice Connector. Gave it a wiggle and tried to start the engine but it would no longer fire. Luckily I had my multi meter in the boot. Checked for volts at coil and found none. Checked at ignition switch and there were 12 of the little darlings. Turned the ignition off and tested for resistance. There were 39 ohms between the ignition switch terminal and the splice carrying the lead to the coil. Given the coil is a 12v one at 3 ohms. This meant that the coil was only getting 3/42ths of 12 volts. That's 1/14th or slightly less than 1 volt.

I hot wired it (don't ask!) and drove home, abandoned the Sixfire and went to Combe in the Golf. Later this afternoon I ripped out the splice connectors of which there were four and soldered up a couple of joints and choccy blocked one. All is now well again. Beware the splice connector my friends!

[Puglet1]

That’s really good to know! 
In my day, we used to call them “Scotch locks “. 
Whatever they’re known as, it looks like they are based being avoided! 
Thanks SJ 👍

[KevinR]

Pro-Tap splices, AKA "Scotch locks" are another item that are the spawn of the devil and should never be used for making any electrical connection.

[ahebron]

KeviR beat me to it

Those connectors should be avoided at all costs.
Either crimp or solder connections
If using those horrid coloured insulated crimps please get the proper tool to crimp them, dont use sidecutters or pliers.
 

[Colin Lindsay]

10 hours ago, ahebron said:

If using those horrid coloured insulated crimps please get the proper tool to crimp them, dont use sidecutters or pliers.

I bought a huge set of plier-type thingies for those, one of the original crimping tools, and it's superb. Puts a 'W'-shaped pressing into the terminal.

Another one to avoid: Soldersticks. Advertised widely, they're a length of clear heat shrink tubing with solder inside; the idea is to heat the tubing so the solder melts and the heatshrink covers the joint. They're rubbish. 

[KevinR]

29 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Another one to avoid: Soldersticks. Advertised widely, they're a length of clear heat shrink tubing with solder inside; the idea is to heat the tubing so the solder melts and the heatshrink covers the joint. They're rubbish. 

I’m sorry, I have to disagree, if the heat shrink sleeves with a band of solder in them are used properly they are brilliant.  
they need to be heated with a proper heat shrink heat gun, with a wrap around fitting to evenly distribute the heat.  If using with PVC insulated wire you need to be careful not to melt the PVC, but with aerospace grade wire with PTFE or ETFE insulation there is no problem with the insulation melting.

[68vitesse]

33 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Another one to avoid: Soldersticks

Never seen them before.

Regards

Paul

[68vitesse]

Just read Kevin's reply, the chap in the video tried with a lighter and a mini torch, so as does happen the product gets blamed for user error.

RTFM

Regards

Paul

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, KevinR said:

I’m sorry, I have to disagree, if the heat shrink sleeves with a band of solder in them are used properly they are brilliant.  
 

It's probably just me, then, but I bought 20 of the blue ones and using a hot air gun got nothing but twisted plastic and unmelted solder. I use 'normal' heatshrink on all my wiring with no problems, but here I found that by the time the solder melts the plastic is almost charred. I'll keep practicing.

[KevinR]

3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

It's probably just me, then, but I bought 20 of the blue ones and using a hot air gun got nothing but twisted plastic and unmelted solder. I use 'normal' heatshrink on all my wiring with no problems, but here I found that by the time the solder melts the plastic is almost charred. I'll keep practicing.

Colin, it’s probably because you are using a hot air paint stripper gun which heats to >500C, rather than a much cooler heat shrink gun which heats to only about 250C - 300C.  The wrap around hot air nozzle deflector is also important as it directs the hot air all the way around the device rather than only on one side.  

[Colin Lindsay]

3 hours ago, KevinR said:

Colin, it’s probably because you are using a hot air paint stripper gun which heats to >500C, rather than a much cooler heat shrink gun which heats to only about 250C - 300C.  The wrap around hot air nozzle deflector is also important as it directs the hot air all the way around the device rather than only on one side.  

That's something new I've learned!! I was using a heat gun and turned up to 500, too... assuming that it required the heat to melt the solder. Never thought to try a lower heat. Now I'll have to run out and try the lower setting.

[KevinR]

8 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

It's probably just me, then, but I bought 20 of the blue ones and using a hot air gun got nothing but twisted plastic and unmelted solder. I use 'normal' heatshrink on all my wiring with no problems, but here I found that by the time the solder melts the plastic is almost charred. I'll keep practicing.

Colin,

If using the "solderstick" branded items, then the tubing starts to shrink at 80C, and the solder starts to melt at 138C.

Other manufacturers products have different temperatures at which things happen, so always check the data sheet before trying to vaporize them with a paint stripper heat gun.

[GrahamB]

10 hours ago, KevinR said:

with aerospace grade wire with PTFE or ETFE insulation there is no problem with the insulation melting.

Probably not relevant to many Triumphs.  Bought my wire from auto electricians and it is PVC insulation. Used crimped connectors with the proper tool as using a soldering iron whilst upside down in the footwell proved too difficult.

[ahebron]

There are professional heatshrink crimps that I use a sparkie.
You crimp the connector then using a hotair gun shrink the heatshrink over the joint, the heatshrink has glue that melts and seals the joint and any damage from the crimping tool.
These are mains rated and compliant.

The low temp solder shrink joints are just that, low temp which I am not convinced joins the cable properly

[Colin Lindsay]

9 hours ago, ahebron said:

There are professional heatshrink crimps that I use a sparkie.
You crimp the connector then using a hotair gun shrink the heatshrink over the joint, the heatshrink has glue that melts and seals the joint and any damage from the crimping tool

I think I just bought the vehicle-related versions this morning. Spotted a box of them in an old, old 'Motorists's Superstore' in a local town. One of those real time-warp places where you can buy mudflaps, aerials and wheelspacers straight off the shelves; he even has Herald-era solenoids and ignition switches on the shelf. I must admit to under-using him when I should be supporting his business.

Anyway: these are crimped first then heat-shrunk onto the cables. I've just used three of them and they worked fine.

 

[Wagger]

When solders became Pb (Lead) free, the melt temperatures reduced. There were also 'Sprays' used on circuit boards to assist repair/removal of faulty components. I discovered that these reduced the melt temperature in some cases dangerously close to operating temperatures. Such is progress, I always use crimps, do a pull test then sleeve or heat shrink. I saved a load of old lead/tin solder for bits that need repair on old cars.

[PeteH]

I am still using Solder, purchased it the 1960`s. And have some "sticks" that must be near 100years old. Most pulled from FIL`s Garage when we cleared it.!! back in the 80`s.

Been coming under pressure lately, from the family, to have a Clearout in the garage myself. Trouble being, I`ve been looking for "stuff" that got skipped the last time we moved house now more than 15years ago. " I know, I had one of/some of, that", is still a frequent conversation.

Village "Garage" sale next weekend, but that is mostly redundant Gardening and/or Caravanning gear. Tools and Car stuff, NOT included!. Anyone need a Ryobi Petrol Strimmer?. 😁

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

I couldn't get the solder to stick to the wiring yesterday, no matter how I tried. I've used it before, but the wiring was the original loom and I had just removed the Triumph bullet connectors which are a tad bigger than the modern replacements. I didn;t want to shorten the cables by cutting and restripping. Ended up using the crimp / heatshrink then instantly regretted it as I just know that joint will need to come apart later.

 

[GrahamB]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I couldn't get the solder to stick to the wiring yesterday, no matter how I tried.

Some years ago, I tried to repair the starter motor off a Metro, re-attaching a terminal that had broken off.  The solder would not stick.  Finally I realised the field coil was aluminium, and not copper.  The original appeared to have been spot welded on (but not very well hence the failure).

[Stratton Jimmer]

On 07/05/2023 at 09:54, Colin Lindsay said:

I didn;t want to shorten the cables

I have often cut back cables by two or three inches, stripped them back, made up a new two or three inch section of new cable with the appropriate connector already on one end then soldered the two together. With the correct colour heat shrink over the joint they look good and I have never had one fail subsequently.