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Zero compression on cylinder 4


Kelv

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1 hour ago, Kelv said:

Update 2 from Bern...

You have a loose main starter motor connection which needs to be either repaired by a specialist or the starter needs replacing.

Unless the connection is really floppy I wouldnt worry about this too much at this stage. My starter, which is very likely to be the same as yours, is also loose and its because the main connection stud is only held internally by a plastic fitting to keep it insulated from the case. This obviously cant hold it very rigidly so the stud can move especially if the correct method to tighten the cable connection hasnt been used:

Its critical to hold the nut on the inner side of the cable lug with a thin spanner while tightening the outer nut to clamp the lug. If you just try to tighten the outer nut the whole assembly will turn in the previously mentioned internal plastic fixing and, if you continue, will do damage.... 

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Update 3 from Bernard Littlewood...

 

Hi Kelvin,

 

A set of cylinder head studs and nuts were delivered at a cost of £55, a saving of £60 + P&P from Rimmer Brothers. Using a flat file then an oil stone, the top of the engine block was cleaned up. The replacement head studs were then cleaned up, the threads coated with copper slip and were screwed and locked in place using two nuts.

1 CYLINDER BLOCK CLEANED UP.jpg

2 REPLACEMENT HEAD STUDS FITTED.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Update of works carried out from Bernard...

Hi Kelvin,

 

After picking up the bare cylinder head I cleaned it thoroughly with white spirit and fitted the valves, springs, collets and spring seats. After cleaning the block the SWP supplied head gasket was fitted, the head put in position and the head nuts were torqued down. After examining the rocker shaft before fitting I found that 2 of the rockers were sticking so I stripped it down to find that the shaft was worn and slightly bent. The cheapest option was for me to fit a decent used item from my spares. The pushrods were fitted then the rocker shaft assembly. The valve clearances were set. I wasn't able to fit the water pump housing as the threads needed cleaning up with a tap. To do this I had to remove the radiator. The water pump housing was fitted, then I noticed a bent inlet manifold stud which I will have to replace. As the SWP gasket set came with the standard rocker cover gasket, I had to supply the correct wide and thin item from my spares stock before I could fit the rocker cover.

1 BARE CYL HEAD.jpg

2 VALVES FITTED.jpg

3 HEAD GASKET FITTED.jpg

4 STRIPPING ROCKER SHAFT.jpg

5 ROCKER SHAFT US.jpg

6 FITTING CYL HEAD.jpg

7 RADIATOR REMOVED.jpg

8 TAPPING THREADS.jpg

9 SETTING VALVE CLEARANCES.jpg

10 CORRECT TYPE ROCKER GASKET.jpg

11 BENT STUD.jpg

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Update from Bernard...

Hi Kelvin,

 

I fitted a good used manifold stud then fitted both the manifolds using new nuts. The SWP supplied carb gaskets were too small so I modified some of my Spitfire gaskets to use. The outer carb mounting stud would not allow the carb to sit correctly on the manifold!! I had to remove it and fit a correct length stud to enable the carb and linkages to be fitted correctly. The coolant hoses were fitted along with the spark plugs, one was damaged so I may have to replace them, the radiator was re fitted and filled with water and the fan belt was fitted and the alternator fixed in place. I used the manual lever on the fuel pump to draw fuel through, it came as far as the filter, but when I stopped pumping the fuel flowed back. I put another gallon of fuel in the tank to give the pump a better chance of delivering the fuel, but it would not get fuel to the carb. I removed and stripped the pump to find the diaphragm and valves in poor repair. I removed a pump from a spare engine, but this was no better, I have ordered a new pump.

 

1 INCORRECT GASKETS IN SET.jpg

2 MANIFOLDS FITTED.jpg

3 CORRECT GASKETS.jpg

4 MORE FUEL ADDED.jpg

5 NO FUEL TO CARB.jpg

6 NO FUEL AT FILTER.jpg

7 FUEL PUMP REMOVED.jpg

8 LEAKING VALVES.jpg

9 TRIED THIS PUMP.jpg

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18 minutes ago, johny said:

etter to get these jobs out of the way now than in a breakdown

In any historic or vintage car it's best to cross yourself, quick prayer, face west, spit on the ground and turn round three times or do whatever floats yer boat for a safe journey! 

Iain 

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It does very much depend on keeping up the maintenence. How things change, for 30 years I've never put any oil or coolant in my modern cars only petrol, air and washer water. 

The only times my Vitesse has let me down its been my fault not the cars. 

Iain 

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Another update from Bernard...

Hi Kelvin,

 

I checked the radiator and found that the water level had fallen ( it wasn't full when I received the car). After a good examination I found damp at the rear of the engine. With the radiator topped up and blowing into the filler, a leak was detected from the smaller rear cylinder head core plug!!! I removed the heater assembly and drilled a hole at an angle in the core plug in the hope that I could extract it without removing the head and buying more gaskets etc. I destroyed my core plug pulling tool trying to remove the core plug, but after an hour using various tools and methods I managed to remove the core plug. It was very fiddly trying to fit a new one due to the restricted space, but I finally managed to do so, it was checked for leakage before the heater assembly was re installed.

1 LEAK TRACED.jpg

2 WHEN RADIATOR FULL.jpg

3 HEATER ASSEMBLY REMOVED.jpg

4 CORE PLUG DRILLED FOR REMOVAL.jpg

5 CORE PLUG REMOVED.jpg

6 NEW CORE PLUG FITTED.jpg

7 NO LEAK WITHOUT ENGINE RUNNING.jpg

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