Jump to content

Zero compression on cylinder 4


Kelv

Recommended Posts

Day 1 of the car being with Bernard Littlewood...

 

"Hi Kelvin,

 

I removed the rocker cover to assess the damage, I need to know how it happened, was it because you had carried out work on the rocker shaft? With the battery disconnected I removed the air filter, carburettor and manifolds. Next the fan belt and water pump housing was removed. The rocker shaft was removed and then the next 5 hours were spent attempting to remove the head!! It would not come off the studs, I attempted to remove the studs by locking nuts together, but only 1 unseized. I welded nuts to the other studs and eventually after using a combination of heat and release oil, all but 1 stud was out. The remaining stud snapped off flush with the head. I welded a larger nut to it, but it just sheared off. I managed to twist the head around the stud, but after spending a long time doing this with the assistance of levers the head only lifted about half inch off the block and the stud was bending. I managed to thread strong nylon cord under the head and using an engine hoist I lifted the front of the car slightly and doused the stud and head with even more release oil to leave it over- night.

 

I am confident that I will get the head off even if I have to use a hacksaw blade to cut the stud between the head and block. I need to know what you want to do then, do you want me to get one new guide fitted with a valve and re assemble the engine or do you want the head taken to SWP for unleaded head conversion with whatever new parts they deem necessary?"

1 CAR ARRIVES.jpg

2 A DROPPED VALVE.jpg

3 WELDING NUTS TO STUDS.jpg

4 STUD SHEARED OFF.jpg

5 REMOVING STUD.jpg

6 LARGE NUT WELDED TO SHEARED STUD.jpg

7 EXTREME HEAT.jpg

8 HEAD PIVOTS ON SHEARED STUD.jpg

9 LEFT SUSPENDED BY HEAD OVER NIGHT.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it all depends on if there is any damage to the bore and or piston. Cross fingers they are OK then I would just fit a new guide and possibly valve and reassemble with new studs and nuts. Subject to full inspection I can't see any reason to spend cash on anything else. 

Iain 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kelv,

It's looking better than it could be - it looks like valve number 1 didn't fall all the way into the cylinder, and instead its head is sitting on the piston crown.  This means that there could be minimal damage to the piston crown and no damage to the bore.

Depending on what Bernard finds when he frees the final stud, you will know whether the engine can be repaired or not - to me its looking hopeful.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You still need to find and sort the original problem, before the valve fell in, ie 1 cylinder no compression and 3 low so you need to examine the head, bores etc before any decision can be made.

 

so probably remove and check all valve seats and maybe a leak down test on the bores to check how well the rings are sealing

Edited by DanMi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I gave him the link when I first made contact with him. He's in the loop.

 

This is what he said last night...

 

    let me know if you want me to order the very basic parts and see if the engine will run with just the valve seats cut and lapped, a new valve if required but definitely a valve guide, gaskets, studs, nuts etc

 

TO DATE you need, new head studs, some rocker shaft fittings, new head nuts, head gasket set, rocker cover flat gasket, maybe at least one valve, at least one valve guide.

Edited by Kelv
Link to comment
Share on other sites

a tip for bern,  when you talk to him this suggestion will work 

on a real corroded stud resisted all the gorilla attempts  we had a small gap at the gasket face so with a hacksaw blade part covered with cornflake card cut through the offending stud 

with the head now off it was easy to drift the stuck stud out   the threaded end in the block unscrewed with fingers 

might sound a bit dramatic but it works 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Kelv said:

I gave him the link when I first made contact with him. He's in the loop.

 

This is what he said last night...

 

    let me know if you want me to order the very basic parts and see if the engine will run with just the valve seats cut and lapped, a new valve if required but definitely a valve guide, gaskets, studs, nuts etc

 

TO DATE you need, new head studs, some rocker shaft fittings, new head nuts, head gasket set, rocker cover flat gasket, maybe at least one valve, at least one valve guide.

AND THE COLLLARS FOR THE ENDS OF THE ROCKER SHAFT!   THAT THEY WERE MISSING WAS THE CAUSE OF YOUR NEAR DISASTER!

But listed as "no longer available", unless you can find them in the sump.

John

Edited by JohnD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Latest from Bernard...

  I've just got the head off,valves and seats are in a terrible way, I will try to re cut the seats and lap the valves, but very likely South Wales Pistons job, if I have to take the head there do you want hardened valve seats although there may not be an option 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bernard says...

"The engine is worn, but if you only want to tootle around in it it should run OK, in any case you will have a good head if you want to recon the bottom end in the future, I can always do a full rebuild for you, I can't comment on an engine that I never heard running."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...