johny Posted September 6, 2023 Report Share Posted September 6, 2023 Realised now that my online manual does show the plug in this cross section drawing but perhaps it gets painted once installed on the rack so isnt easily seen. Also being only a push fit I cant imagine that it actually does very much... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted September 6, 2023 Report Share Posted September 6, 2023 50 minutes ago, johny said: I cant imagine that it actually does very much... Nor can I as the nylon must wear and soon become ineffective? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted September 6, 2023 Report Share Posted September 6, 2023 I have an early OE NOS Herald rack that has only alloy clamps without the locating flanges. Now that rack has holes for the nylon plug at each end located under the alloy clamps. It was brought from an official Leyland Parts Supplier here "Lapco" when they had a fire sale around 45 years ago and it has never been fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 i imagine the rubber mount gives the little plug some damping loading against the rack pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 yes can only think the rack shaft can rattle in the passenger side sleeve bush and the plug tries to damp this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 thats the plan its not just triumph the idea is used on others racks too the idler end has a sprung shoe damper the passenger end is just a rod in a bush so it has clearance that can on poor surfaces set up a clatter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 10 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: the idler end has a sprung shoe damper the passenger end is just a rod in a bush so it has clearance that can on poor surfaces set up a clatter wish my vitesse was quiet enough to hear any steering rack clatter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 Paddocks sell the nylon plug. I bought one earlier this year. I've been considering a move back from alloy mounts to original style with poly bushes, due to increased road shocks through the steering and wanting a smoother ride as I get older. I see that BMH are now reproducing the original clamps from new tooling, for a resonable cost. 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 21 minutes ago, trigolf said: I've been considering a move back from alloy mounts to original style with poly bushes, due to increased road shocks through the steering and wanting a smoother ride as I get older. Snap! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 21 minutes ago, Iain T said: Snap! This getting uncanny Iain!! Personally, the reason I moved away from the rubber mounts years ago, was because the MOT man kept saying there was too much rack movement. Of course it didn't help that I had 165 tyres which upped the stationary steering loads. I also noted that when both my father and me bought recon racks, for his Herald and my Vit, that the rack tube, despite being all shiny and fresh painted, had corroded slightly under the area where the bushes clamped. I suspect that this didn't help the bushes to clamp on a worn tube. Move on a few years and we all know about rubbish repro rubber parts. When I got my Vit there were different types of rack clamps fitted and one had had a diy fix using an exhaust clamp u bolt loosely fitted. The other side had a bent thread end. Before I buy, I would want to be certain that good quality poly bushes will grip tightly and thus pass the MOT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 1 hour ago, trigolf said: I suspect that this didn't help the bushes to clamp on a worn tube. Move on a few years and we all know about rubbish repro rubber parts. When I got my Vit there were different types of rack clamps fitted and one had had a diy fix using an exhaust clamp u bolt loosely fitted. The other side had a bent thread end. Before I buy, I would want to be certain that good quality poly bushes will grip tightly and thus pass the MOT! I dont understand this because my Vitesse rubber bushes (see the manual diagram I posted previously) dont have to grip as such but are squeezed between the U clamps and flat stops welded to the rack outer tube. The only movement in either direction should then be due to the minimal squashing of the rubber... Is there another design? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 2 hours ago, trigolf said: Before I buy, I would want to be certain that good quality poly bushes will grip tightly and thus pass the MOT! Chris witor sells the poly bushes. I'll have to buy the clamps, donations kindly accepted😂. From memory Johny is correct and the bushes are retained by stops on the rack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 Looks like the early 1200 Heralds used u bolt clamps to hold the rack directly but then Triumph changed the design to the rubber in compression type presumably because of excessive vibration transmission... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 Johny, what I meant was the slightly 'undersize' rack tube (because of previous corrosion), which is then sandblasted during reconditioning. The end result was the rack would move from side to side, slightly as the load was put on and the MOT man didn't like it. I can't be the only person who fell foul of this !? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 But the size of the tube shouldnt matter (with in reason) the side to side movement is controlled by the compression of the rubber mounts and should be minimal if theyre in good condition and adjusted correctly... The MOT man should know that anything rubber mounted (suspension bushes, engine mounts etc) will be subject to some movement as thats the whole point👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 The tube has two vertical flanges which are tight to the clamps with only a little bit of insulation, be it rubber or poly, exposed, with the clamps pulling both down and outwards. Any wear or softening here, or if the rubber compresses too much as some poor brands of mount do, will allow too much movement; and if the clamps are not tight to the outer edges, it will move about, maybe just a bit but still alarming to watch and I can see why MOT testers may be dubious. If I'm remembering correctly the alloy clamps didn't go right to the edges so they do allow movement over time as the tube slides through them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 (edited) yes the manual says those cup clamps should be pushed up against the vertical flanges until the rubber compresses and theres only 1/8" gap left on each one. I wonder if its another case of taking the manual along to show the MOT tester at the same time as explaining why there has to be play in the wheel bearings😁 Edited September 7, 2023 by johny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 48 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: If I'm remembering correctly the alloy clamps didn't go right to the edges so they do allow movement over time as the tube slides through them. Another reason I don't trust them! There is quite a gap from the ali clamps and stop. If it moves it would be quite alarming. What also worried me was the quality of the s/steel U bolts used on my solid mounts. I've seen soooooo many threads snap like carrots! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 1 hour ago, Iain T said: There is quite a gap from the ali clamps and stop Not on all solid clamps. The ones from Moss have a much larger lower block which buts up against the verticle flanges Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 Another thing is I suspect the original rubber bushes may help reduce wear on the rack/pinion and its 4 ball joints by softening the constant impacts from the wheels while driving... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, DanMi said: Not on all solid clamps. The ones from Moss have a much larger lower block which buts up against the verticle flanges The one's Jigsaw fitted for the PO are narrow top and bottom. I've moved the rack over to miss the phoenix manifold but can't see a welded stop. I have 20mm gap to the casting offside and 3mm the other. It looks a pita to change the mounts and I have no idea what rack Jigsaw installed. What I did find today was I could tighten the steering wheel boss nut a few mill. Unfortunately the taper on the aftermarket boss and original column are a gnats c**k different😡 I think because I had to move the rack I have no option but to retain the solid block mounts. For piece of mind I might fit a jubilee clip or make a spacer to stop any possible sideways movement. New idea...padded driving gloves! Iain Edited September 7, 2023 by Iain T Grammar! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekS Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 Something to be aware of is the torque setting for these listed in Haynes manual is waaaay too high. Can't remember what it quotes but a few years ago I managed, foolishly, to strip the threads on two new ones. Derek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 27 minutes ago, DerekS said: Something to be aware of is the torque setting for these listed in Haynes manual is waaaay too high. Can't remember what it quotes but a few years ago I managed, foolishly, to strip the threads on two new ones. Derek. I stripped one side on my 13/60 by trying to pull the clamps over the poly bushes by sheer force alone; there was a lot of corrosion on the threads and they just stripped once any kind of pressure was put on. Thankfully a set came up on eBay and I got those, and they were like new so I used both. Here's a comparison set of alloy mounts, I bought the set on the left years ago - before I knew better lol - but the angled set on the right came off a 948 saloon and may be original. I don't know why the early ones have got the stepped foot, or what it's for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 12 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: I don't know why the early ones have got the stepped foot, or what it's for. Looks like metal thickness clearance for a bracket or the like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted September 7, 2023 Report Share Posted September 7, 2023 here are the Moss ones note that the lower block is much wider and buts up against the rack bracket, much better than most https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/spitfire/steering-suspension/steering/uprated-steering-rack-mounts.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now