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Cold Heater


Steve P

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Probably know the answer to this, my Vitesse heater is cold even when the engine is at full temperature, all hoses are hot, the flap control doesn`t appear to make much difference to air direction.

A couple of years ago I noticed the blower motor was intermittent but that turned out to be the switch, I found a NOS one on E bay and now the motor spins really well, just cold.

I guess it`s matrix out time?. It has a new Smiths valve on it which is wide open.

Steve 

Edited by Steve P
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The valve may be fully open but if blocked by gunge it won't let hot water through. My 13/60 was like that. I gave it a good blast with water via a hose pipe, both directions, with the hoses off. I replaced the valve as it was completely bunged. Try flushing before taking the heater apart.

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2 minutes ago, Chris A said:

The valve may be fully open but if blocked by gunge it won't let hot water through. My 13/60 was like that. I gave it a good blast with water via a hose pipe, both directions, with the hoses off. I replaced the valve as it was completely bunged. Try flushing before taking the heater apart.

I flushed and cleared the valve on my GT6 last year when I replaced the coolant - having checked the flow everywhere else that was the remaining culprit for my cold heater. Worked fine afterwards, but unfortunately it's blocked again now. Matrix is absolutely fine - wish I'd replaced the valve at the time as I wasn't completely convinced I'd fully cleared it. 

Gully

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there are a few other places to check flow  to the heater

the water pump is most unlikley to be anything to do with your cold heater 

check the metal tube under the manifold and the adaptor thats fitted into the back of the pump hsg.  these are often blocked 

have you released the top heater hose clip and pulled the hose off while idling to release any trapped air (dont burn the pinkies) 

is the thermostat actually working  82c is pretty hot , you can only hold a hose for a few seconds  till the hot  bites you.

take the rad cap off when cold and with engine running you should not see any flow in the rad header

when the stat opens you will see flow and stop as the stat modulates the flow .

if the hose flush through th matrix and the valve is new/opening   then its the  source of the flow thats in trouble

the air flap box is easy to remove 2 bolts and a cable , renew the flap felt/sponges  to aid distribution 

Pete

 

 

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Definitely take the valve off and clean it before doing anything else. Mine required high pressure off mains water to clear it after a boil up in washing soda.

I them cleared the matrix without removal by connecting hoses to it, raising them above bonnet level and filling with hot washing soda solution. Gave it three goes using an old electric kettle with washing soda in it. Ran mains water through it gently afterwards.

Replaced all without draining the whole system, and all works fine.

The flap has lost its seals, so does not divert the air very well.

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The normal problem is the heated inlet manifold pipe outlets are blocked at the heater end. Do not try to undo the banjo bolt as is will shear off. Remove the hoses and carefully clean out the pipes with a piece of stiff wire and water.

Then flush the heater and valve.

Dave. 

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My heater worked ok in terms of heat output, when needed recently, but the demister was useless, just when I really wanted it in pouring rain! Checking it later, I found several very small splits in the demister plastic pipes. Easily fixed with some insulation tape.

 

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