Dick Twitchen Posted February 5 Report Share Posted February 5 Aidan, Just had my O/D gearbox off and then back on the engine (thrust washer issue). Engine is on a stand and a chum was able to lift the gearbox by hand whilst I did the alignment and got a couple of bolts in place. If you must do it on your own follow John's advice. Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 11 Author Report Share Posted February 11 So, while I have the engine out I thought I'd rebuild the wiring loom AZ it's had various bitd and bobs done to it plus I want to reposition the light relays to the bulkhead alongside the horn relay. Anyway I've found a blue only cable following the dynamo/ alternator route alongside the brown/green and brown/ yellow(original dynamo cabling) Anyone know what this solid blue one might have been for? I can't see it on the mk1 wiring diagram Thx Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 11 Report Share Posted February 11 its a wire thats been added by previous owners blue was only a base colour for headlamps nothing to do with the alternator etc is it connected to anything ???? like the alternator as a higher capacity than the old dynamo grown/yellow ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 24 Author Report Share Posted February 24 Hi again! Refitting the distributor adapter to the new engine from old. It seems an extremely tight fit! Any thoughts? I assume they are a standard item? Also how important is this packing procedure? There was no packing from the old engine. If important had anyone got a better description of what to do I read yhf manual and don't really understand it Thx Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 (edited) The "Distributor adaptor"? Where the shaft on the body of the dizzy goes into the bore in the block? It should not be " an extremely tight fit"! I don't know if the different dizzies, Lucas/Delco, had a different OD on that shaft, could that be the answer? And "Packing" Do you mean setting the end float? The description in the Haynes isn't clear, try that in the Brown Bible: Sorry, first part not clear: "8/ Place a flat washer on top of the oil pump shaft bush. 9/ Fit the distributor drive shaft and gear in position over the washer, ensuring that the oil pump drive dog is engaged." I would "ensure the oil pump drive dog is engaged" first of all! You'll note that the examples are worked in 'thou', so you do need a micrometre for this, to measure the test washer. I keep such a washer whose thickness I have measured for this purpose. If you don't have a micrometre perhaps you know someone who does, or a friendly workshop who would measure one for you? A Vernier gauge might be sufficient. If you have a good light and reasonable eyes, a Vernier will measure to tenths of a millimeter and that is 4 thou, which is just less than the allowed end float. Good luck! John Edited February 24 by JohnD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 24 Author Report Share Posted February 24 1 hour ago, AidanT said: distributor adapter Sorry I meant pedestal. I was having issues fitting as I didnt have the studs fitted, much better now. More to the point, I have the drive shaft in and pretty sure the oil pump is located ( the shaft twisted in to engage and is the same depth as the original engine shaft. I might be missing something but when i try to trial fit the dizzy there's a about a 1 to 2 mm gap from the top of the pedestal to the dizzy. Would the packing washers take this up? And whaats the part number for them? I can't find them Thx Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 24 Author Report Share Posted February 24 Hi Sorry points above still apply but reading again, the end float, is this between the pedestal and the drive shaft?? The process above does now make a little more sense! How big does this washer need to be? Diameter? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 just check its not the dizzy clamp thats giving you some fitting restrictions pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 Probably won't help but I set the endfloat when I had the sump off (complete rebuild) with a dial gauge on the top of the drive gear and then pushed up on the oil pump drive from underneath. Very simple but not helpful if the engine is complete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 24 Author Report Share Posted February 24 5 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: just check its not the dizzy clamp thats giving you some fitting restrictions pete I didn't have the clamp fitted Pete, The pic here shows the gap with all faces sitting flush. Will the spacers absorb all this plus the float?? I found the part - 125252 which is .02" thick, but should these parts all sit flat without any shims?? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 (edited) i would check that fitting the clamp may raise the dizzy and solve the gap whats the gap with no dizzy fitted ??? same or better ??? just a thought thats a big gap to fill with silly gaskets Pete Edited February 24 by Pete Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 24 Author Report Share Posted February 24 2 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: whats the gap with no dizzy fitted ??? same or better ??? Pete the pedestal sits flat without the dizzy in place. I will try with the clamp fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 24 Author Report Share Posted February 24 1 hour ago, AidanT said: the end float, is this between the pedestal and the drive shaft?? Can you confirm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 Here you go. The pedestal 1 musnt clamp the drive gear 3 against the bush 5 as the gear must be free to move up and down 5 thou. If you put the pedestal in place and your lucky it sits slightly high, measure the clearance as shown and add 5 thou to the reading to know the shims thickness needed. If the pedestal doesnt sit high then you will have to use the washer method... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 Ah I think youve already said the pedestal sits flat in which case you have to put a washer of measured and sufficient thickness to ensure that theres clearance to measure as in the drawing. There ithe washer is item 4 sitting between the gear and bush but it could be put, as has been suggested, on top of the gear so the pedestal sits on it. However with both positions I imagine theres a risk of it slipping off and falling inside the engine😩 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 (edited) the endfloat is basically how much the drive gear can move up and down with the pedestal fitted. You adjust the number and thickness of gaskets to set this movement. The Haynes way gets you to measure the gap with no gaskets if that is say 10 thou then you need to add 15 thou of gaskets to get 5 thou endfloat, they get you to measure by cutting a notch out of the gaskets so you can get a feeler in to measure the now 15 thou gap you could also use a dial gauge and a strong magnet to pull the drive gear up to measure endfloat and just adjust the number of gaskets until correct Edited February 24 by DanMi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted February 24 Author Report Share Posted February 24 Thanks guys I think I have this now! Just concerned about that gap in my pic above, but I will check to see if the clamp absorbs that as Pete states Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 Yes that is a large gap although the manual does show 4 shims fitted. I dont like the idea of it being 'absorbed' as once set correctly the pedestal shouldnt change position! Youve got to be certain the gear is free or it'll get messy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted March 19 Author Report Share Posted March 19 On 24/02/2024 at 18:10, AidanT said: Thanks guys I think I have this now! Just concerned about that gap in my pic above, but I will check to see if the clamp absorbs that as Pete states Aidan Just an update, it would seem that after much investigation, my clamp is a Lucas one which must have been bodge fitted by a PO. Delco clamp to be ordered!! Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 19 Report Share Posted March 19 (edited) And I take it the setting of the drive gear end float was successful in the end Aidan? Edited March 19 by johny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted March 19 Author Report Share Posted March 19 1 hour ago, johny said: And I take it the setting of the drive gear end float was successful in the end Aidan? Yes I just need one .006" shim. None were fitted originally - another PO bodge !! Aidan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted March 23 Author Report Share Posted March 23 Hi all, How do you remove a crank spigot bush? TIA Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 23 Report Share Posted March 23 Bit of bent wire to hook it out as you can see in the diagram.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted March 23 Report Share Posted March 23 If it’s difficult to extract I believe using a grease gun on the outside of the bush and pump grease in it’ll hydraulically push the spigot bush out. I’ve used the same method to pump out seized brake caliper pistons. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 23 Report Share Posted March 23 yes if the wire hook doesnt work you fill the cavity with grease and need a punch of the same diameter as the input shaft , position the punch and give it good whack with a mallet and the grease will push the bush out . it should not be a tight fit in the crank but lifes not like that Ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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