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GT6 Engine Removal Basics


AidanT

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as a infrequent  i just stuff the hole with paper towel or similar   to keep it from attracting debris

no reason why you just remove the remote hsg,  then smaller hole exposed   but a bit less clearance 

removing the remote /top cover just aids clearance and the angle of dangle to clear the bulkhead opening 

no real need to get carried away 

Pete

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Think I now have plenty of room as the bonnet and all ancillaries are removed.  I've even had to raise the front of the car a couple of inches to get the engine lift into place. I'll just remove the gear stick if that's sll that's really needed

Spent the weekend cleaning ancillaries and still a lot of work to do once the engine bay is empty. 

Aidan 

 

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While I have the water pump housing removed, is there a good way to clean the rust and crap out of it?

I've seen various posts on acid based cleaners, can any one suggest which is best??

Thx

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15 hours ago, AidanT said:

bonnet and all ancillaries are removed.  I've even had to raise the front of the car a couple of inches to get the engine lift into place.

I have a couple of timber ramps I use to get the trolley jack under the front of my Honda S2000. An extra 2" was just enough to get the wheels of the engine hoist under the wishbones.

15 hours ago, AidanT said:

a lot of work to do once the engine bay is empty.

Luckily I have just completed that stage. It's quite a task with a white chassis!

Hope the removal goes well. It'll help if you have an assistant guiding the gearbox end and checking for snags.

Ian

DSC_8278.JPG

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3 hours ago, Ian Foster said:

Luckily I have just completed that stage. It's quite a task with a white chassis!

I hope you're going to clean that engine bay before you put the lump back Ian. Looks fithy .....ahem!

Gav

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  • 3 weeks later...
32 minutes ago, AidanT said:

So nos 16 and 21 then??

For the mount, is it best to geg them from underneath??

 

Aidan 

As Pete says you can access the nuts from underneath but the bolt heads are usually almost impossible to reach. Find some way of jamming them so they don't rotate then undo the nut.

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You should be able to make a screw driver between the bolt head and the od bracket. May need someone to hold it while you undo the but from underneath. I find the easier for my wife to hold the screwdriver than a spanner.

Graham

 

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you could araldite the bolt heads just holds enough to allow the nuts tight without the heads spinning 

you could drill the bolt head and insert a split pin just need to stop the head rotating 

many ways  are available with a bit of thinking 

you can leave the metalastic mount and remove the chassis  base plate as an assy. or hope you can lift the od over the mount 

leaving the sodding nuts alone 

Pete

 

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All

Engine is now on the bench!!! YAY!

So, next question. Taking the gearbox (with od) off, how much does it weigh?

Can I just lift it across myself, or do I need to use the crane??

TIA

Aidan

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Always understood an overdrive gearbox about 50KG, a bare six cylinder engine 150KG but might be wrong

As to the two bolts cut a slot in the thread end to take a screwdriver, hold the nut still and rotate the bolt, then finally tighten with a spanner, the method I use.

Regards

Paul.

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