GT6 Engine Removal Basics

[AidanT]

Hi all, 

About to finally remove and swap over engines in my mk1.

Hopefully a simple question, do I need to support the gearbox and exhaust system with wooden blocks? Or are the standard supports sufficient?

Thx

 

Aidan 

Edited December 27, 2023 by AidanT

[dougbgt6]

Gearbox is coming out attached to the engine surely? Much easier. (Don't call me Shirley!) And as you're disconnecting the exhaust bracket it will need a little support.  

Doug

[AidanT]

2 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

Gearbox is coming out attached to the engine surely? Much easier. (Don't call me Shirley!) And as you're disconnecting the exhaust bracket it will need a little support.  

Doug

Sorry, no room to do that - engine only!

 

Aidan 

[Pete Lewis]

as it seams you have the gearbox left in situ the down pipe should have a support to the gearbox/clutch hsg. so that supports the front pipe 

the gearbox only has mounts at its rear so will need a jack of support under the clutch hsg

you will need to rotate the gearbox input  shaft  or the engine to align the splines with the clutch disc 

either a small turn of the crank or lift one wheel engage 4th and turn a wheel to turn the shaft 

it wont need much bit there does need to be a bit of fiddling to align up 

keep an eye on the gap between eng back plate and clutch hsg.  to be equal and parallel  ||  not \|   

Pete

Edited December 26, 2023 by Pete Lewis

[Ian Foster]

45 minutes ago, AidanT said:

Sorry, no room to do that - engine only!

Aiden

Having just pulled out my engine an o/d gearbox as a unit, I would suggest that it might be difficult to disengage the engine from the box whilst lifting the engine high enough for the sump to clear the chassis crossmember.

Two possible options

1. remove the gearbox first through the car (not ever my favoured option), then the engine can be lifted straight up (refitting the reverse procedure)
2. turn the car round in whatever space you have, to allow removal of the engine and gearbox from the front.

There may be things like the gearbox front oil seal that you might like to change whilst engine and box are separated.

Ian

Edited December 26, 2023 by Ian Foster
update

[AidanT]

If I can work out a way to take the box out to, is it just a case of unbolting the prop and the box support bracket (+ speedo cable  clutch save. .....) ???

Is it really easier??

Aidan 

Edited December 26, 2023 by AidanT

[iani]

1 hour ago, AidanT said:

If I can work out a way to take the box out to, is it just a case of unbolting the prop and the box support bracket (+ speedo cable  clutch save. .....) ???

Is it really easier??

Aidan 

obviously remove the gear lever too, but yes, it really is much easier to take both out together.

[Pete Lewis]

to remove the gearbox you will need to support the back of the engine 

its seats out ,H frame out , tunnel out , disconnect the prop and speedo cable ,

undo all the clutch hsg and stater bolts remove the box out via the passenger doorway or leave it propped in the car

ready to slot back onto the engine when its in but you will have to devise props for engine and gearbox to align the two 

you can pop n 4th and turn the coupling to align the clutch splines 

if you have OD its quite heavy .

Pete

[AidanT]

Which would you do Pete, given the choice?

I have an overdrive and could make room if i stuck the back end of the car outside the forage door

Aidan 

[JohnD]

AidanT,

If you possibly can engine and gearbox together.  Yu need a "Load Leveller" on your hoist and a high enough lifting point.  Here's how, on my Vitesse.   Note contrary to the WSM advice you do NOT need to take off the bonnet!

[Pete Lewis]

sorry choice is yours  , its is easier to fit a gearbox to the engine out the car 

but space/room /hoist /load leveler or not  all decide out as a pair or seperately as the angle of dangle needs fair space 

compared to a straight lift 

do protect the screen  with some hard board  , you dont want the lump to swing and crack the screen ( it happens ) 

have you removed the bonnet ?  or propose lifting with bonnet in place ???

dont forget  the 6 pot is pretty  heavy  lump   dont scrimp  on the straps/chains 

are you using a engine crane  or block and tackle off the roof beams ??

Pete

 

[AidanT]

Hi Pete

Borrowed a 2T crane, bonnet already off along with radiator water pump etc, - will be stripping off all the ancillaries first. 

I have a load leveler, although not as posh as John's. I think it will do the job.

Now 50 50 as to which way to go

 

Aidan

 

 

Edited December 27, 2023 by AidanT

[AidanT]

9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

dont forget  the 6 pot is pretty  heavy  lump   dont scrimp  on the straps/chains

Fully aware of this Pete, just the block on its own is more that I could lift!!!

[Pete Lewis]

there is no easy solution  everyone does it their way with whatever they have to help

pete

[68vitesse]

I have removed engine and gearbox together on my Vitesse recently, same method as JohnD, tried engine only once a bugger to line up and rejoin engine and gearbox, never again.

Probably comes down to equipment, room and help available, used a bungee cord with hooks on each end to hold the exhaust out off the way, starter can catch on the steering shaft.

Regards

Paul.

[AidanT]

Thanks all

Think it's going to be both then, I will support the exhaust and tie the prop so I can roll everything back inside once out

Does the gear selector just unbolt, do I needed to ensure anything to ease it's replacement??

 

Edited December 27, 2023 by AidanT

[dougbgt6]

No it comes off and goes back easily.

A minor job you might want to do is replace the gear lever bush mechanism, it's a weak point, wears easily, mine needs doing. There is a kit.

Doug

Edited December 27, 2023 by dougbgt6

[AidanT]

Thanks Doug. WSM says to put into first gear first so I guess I need to do that.

BTW, is GAC5053A the right clutch alignment tool? 

 

Thx

[Ian Foster]

1 hour ago, AidanT said:

WSM says to put into first gear first so I guess I need to do that.

That's only if you are removing the complete top cover. You can remove just the remote with the 4No. bolts.

I would also suggest you remove the starter motor to give more clearance to the top flange of the exhaust. Also remove the rocker cover (particularly if it is nice) to avoid  denting/scratching it.

I also swopped my usual long spin on oil filter for a stubby one. Not necessary if you have a standard filter.

Easiest as a two person job and take your time.

Ian

[Pete Lewis]

club shop align tool  

[Peter Truman]

Gee you have to buy the alignment tool, most of the clutch kits I buy have one included so I now have around 3 coarse (10) and a couple of fine (21) splined tools.

[PeteH]

The last one I did, (Ford Cortina) I turned up my own aligment tool from solid brass. Been used as a Dolly and Punch since then.😂 so not quite pristine now.

Pete

[Pete Lewis]

for years i used a large cadbury's pencil with a point on the end electrical tape used to make up the spline diameter 

have a few alignment tools and old input shafts but dont envisage any humping gearboxes if thats possible 

pete

[AidanT]

Sorry

Just wanted to clarify  ix it best to remove the gearstick mechanism or just the gearstick when taking engine and box out??

 

TIA

[JohnD]

The whole 'remote' gear change extension, leaving a rectangular opening in the top of the box, with four studs, which I close to stop anything falling in!     A simple plate of thin steel is easy to make - don't forget the little locating studs need holes too!   The studs themselves are only partly threaded, so a set of four short tubes allows the original nuts to hold down the plate.

An alternative would be to use  masking or gaffer tape!

John