Trouble getting a gearbox into a 13/60

[piran]

I'm just fitting a new gearbox to my 13/60 and I'm having trouble getting it back in. I can get it lined up at the top with the stud sticking out of the engine but it won't straighten up and the propshaft is in the way.

I've tried jacking the engine to adjust the angle of the engine to no avail - and have just snapped my exhaust manifold -  and am now at a loss as to what to do. Any suggestions?

[foshi]

i remove the prop first 

[piran]

12 minutes ago, foshi said:

i remove the prop first 

But won't that leave me with the same problem at the diff end, so then I'd have to move the diff to get it back in.

[foshi]

no you can get the prop out fiddly and then replace it

[foshi]

do not need to touch the diff other than to remove the prop flange bolts

[foshi]

you may have to support the engine undo mounts move it slightly forward to get the prop back on as some can be a very tight fit 

[DanMi]

I always split the exhaust from the manifold, Actually on mine remove the manifolds as it is a mk2 spit with a single piece 4-2-1, then you can raise the back of the engine enough for the box to clear the prop and fit to the engine. i support the engine under the sump with a piece of wood toward the rear with a second plank of the correct thickens to fit between the first one and the bottom of the back plate, then raise the engine and slide the gearbox on the planks. The engine needs to be jacked up quite a long way

[foshi]

think we all have are way of doing it what ever works best for the person doing the job , lost count of the number i have done over the years easy when you have done it though paul

[piran]

I jacked up the engine to get the old one out, but haven't been able to get it right to get it back in. I've managed to snap the flange on the manifold. I've also noticed that even in neutral there's a connection between the input and output.

[Pete Lewis]

getting the two aligned can be a bit of a faf 

old trick to check is a bit of wood to poke in the gap use as gauge all round  as eye's will  play games 

the stick helps you judge |\  when you need ||   

you may need to raise the engine rear more than you expect 

as for the drive in neutral whip the top cover off and with a screwdriver gently pry the baulk rings to see they are a rattling fit and one has not got jammed on the gears cone .

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

As Pete says you need to raise the back of the engine, the gearbox will simply slide on once the shaft lines up, but you do put a strain on the other ancillaries including engine mounts so be careful; the exhaust probably should have been disconnected first to give you the extra upward movement. Get the angle right and it will slip on, all else such as propshaft will fit easily too. Just be careful of your fingers on the tunnel edges.

[Pete Lewis]

fit a couple of long studs into the bolt holes at the top of the block 

helps align and make sure you can remove them when its on 

note on other posts there is one dowel location and a sized 3/8" hole for  a  3/8 bolt on the opposite side of the c hsg .

dont fit a 5/16 bolt in this bigger hole (if it has one )

Pete

[piran]

Thanks for the help, finally got it in, it was much harder than I remember last time I did it, but it is now in. I've put the bolts in finger tight before tightening them, I have one hole left and one bolt - unfortunately the bolt isn't long enough for the hole so I'll double check all the others and then onto repairing everything I broke on the way: it's developed a water leak, probably from the heater hose, a wire has been pulled out and needs reattaching and the flange on the manifold is broken 😭😭. Hoping I can drain the coolant (and reuse) get the inlet manifold off and then work on the exhaust manifold - the bolts look quite rusty and after the thermostat saga I don't want to shear one of those and then either try to get this welded back together or try to source another one. 

Not quite the way I'd hoped this would go.

[Colin Lindsay]

11 hours ago, piran said:

Not quite the way I'd hoped this would go.

Well, you'll know for the next time...

 

[piran]

Got the gearbox in. Unfortunately I've knackered the exhaust manifold - anyone know where I might be able to find one? All I've found are very expensive stainless steel ones which would mean replacing the whole exhaust.

[trigolf]

You could try Canley Classics or Spitfire Graveyard for a s/h one. Can't think there would be any NOS left now.

[DanMi]

as Trigolf says try the brakers also spitbitz.co.uk (Nr reading) Spitfire MK3 and MK4 are the same as 1360

[piran]

So far tried various breakers, spitbitz, quiller, ebay, with no joy so far.

I've started another thread in the engine section as this isn't gearbox anymore - hopefully that's done!

[JohnD]

And, piran, if you possibly can, take out the enginevwith gearbox!  Much easier to assemble one to the other on the bench!

A "Load Leveller" and sufficient lift height is needed. 

John

[Colin Lindsay]

3 manifolds on eBay; I've linked them in your other post.

[Chris A]

2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

3 manifolds on eBay; I've linked them in your other post.

I'm surprised the link wasn't too heavy to work. I would get my coat but it's bl**dy freezing outside!

[Colin Lindsay]

Lol I found inlet manifolds by mistake so a lot lighter. Will keep looking for exhaust.

[piran]

32 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Lol I found inlet manifolds by mistake so a lot lighter. Will keep looking for exhaust.

Thanks 👍 seem to be a bit like hens teeth at the moment.

[piran]

20 hours ago, JohnD said:

And, piran, if you possibly can, take out the enginevwith gearbox!  Much easier to assemble one to the other on the bench!

A "Load Leveller" and sufficient lift height is needed. 

John

Yes, unfortunately that's not going to work, not only do I not have an engine hoist, the garage is not high enough to lift it over the car, the drive is on quite a slope so doing it outside would also be difficult.

It's not too bad doing it in the car if you are careful and remember what to do - unfortunately I failed on both those criteria.

[Graham C]

You need to take the bonnet off and lift the engine up and move the car back.you need to wiggle/adjust the engine as the car moves back. This means you only need to clear the front chassis rail.

Graham