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modded gt6


DrKai
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So work has finally started in earnest. It'll be slow going due to 80+hr weeks at work but will post when something is done and plenty of times before hand to get advice. Eventual plan will be to have the body off but for now I'll be doing what I can without to keep it road going and enjoyable. 

Started stripping the interior ready for the rollcage and I'll be down to paint and rubbish stripping from the interior very shortly. I think physical removal is my only option really given keeping the car together at this stage. I was thinking of getting a buffer with a low grit sandpaper and having at it, any recommendations for a good unit? Also there looks to be some pretty big spots of I'm guessing spray on deadener that has probably been painted over more than once and is now rock solid any ideas on best way to get rid?

 

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Thanks

Kai

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Try a paint stripper hot air gun. It won't strip paint from metal, as the heat is conducted away to quickly, but the sound insulation is also heat insulation and it gets quite hot, and will soften enougjto scrape off.

 

Alternatively look for a "CrudBuster" tool. Air powered, but electric versions are available. Professionals tool with price to match, but if you have a lot to do will be worth it.

John

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Hi Kai,

 

My least favourite job is removing paint!

All methods seem to involve a lot of time, dust, noise and noxious fumes, or a combination of them all. - though the latter is reduced now dichloromethane is not so readily available.

I asked an "old hand ' years ago about how to remove really stubborn paint and he replied " The first question should be

-Why do I need to remove it?" - just a thought..

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Nope no insulation or carpet going back. It's going to be a full biscuit tin but would like a nice finish to it. It'll by no means be show standard as it's intended to be driven and essentially it's my learning guinea pig but i couldn't deal with looking at that every time I got in. 

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Not at all, but the Crud Thug etc is a different system.

The wires are pivoted on the drum, rather than being rigidly fixed.

The result is that crud (!) is removed in large pieces, not dust, so easier to clear up, and less risk breathing.

A mask and all PPE still a good idea!

 

John

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So assuming I manage to get an appreciable amount of material off and don't uncover any horror stories (given the 12 previous owners) what would people do re sealing the metal. Done some googling and gather epoxy primer would be better than self etch given that it will likely be a few weeks between start and being ready for paint but this needs more meticulous surface prep. In terms of the final painting it'll be a rattle can job so doesn't need to be perfect just dont want to be chasing rust instead of moving forward. 

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Preparing a rusty surface for painting requires some chemical reaction. All the 'rust illers' are based on phosphoric acid, as iron phosphate is the only salt of a weak acid that is insoluble. A thin layer is converted, a thick one needs mechanical removal first. The phosphate surface is a good ground for any primer.

But rust converters are expensive. Phosphoric acid is not, esp. In rural areas where it is sold at farmers' supply shops as "Mikstone Remover" for cleaning milking machines!

John

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I bought 5L of 80% phosphoric acid off fleabay for £25. 80% is several times more concentrated (oops,nearly said stronger!) than any "rust converter)" so I dilute about 4parts water to one part acid. It is slowly being used by me and friends..... Very effective.

 

Upol Acid 8 is an excellent etch primer that can be used as a holding primer for a few weeks/month, but best not let the surface get wet. Or I have found Bonda Primer to be an excellent product, but you have to either overcoat within 24 hours, or after 7 days. Good for brush (min-roller??) application. 

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Cheers guys cheap acid and upol 8 on the way. 

Did some more stripping today was a magical mystery bodge tour under the carpets. See below 

16650801_10158209440320646_283068679_o_z Dog toy speaker backing

16523149_10158209438280646_906979295_o_z Mysterious switch

WhatsApp%20Image%202017-02-06%20at%2016.This should probably go somewhere

WhatsApp%20Image%202017-02-06%20at%2015.Smashing weld that

WhatsApp%20Image%202017-02-06%20at%2016.This is in absolutely no way attached to anything

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, grinding out the interior muck underway. Turning my endless evening googling towards seating options. They're to be used with harness and full cage. Doesn't need to meet any specific regs. Will see a good amount of road use. Ideally on the budget side and most importantly need to fit. Current options are kirkey or some of the fibreglass seats intended for kitcar use. I've looked at the classic buckets from cobra etc but believe these are all too high. I'm 6ft so not huge but there's not much room to play with on the standard seats. Any other suggestions?

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  • 8 months later...

8 months silence... did say things would be slow. Delving further in to the the depths I found too much wrong with the car not to have the body off entirely. The last 8 months have therefore been spent enjoying it and sorting a new home for the rebuild and sourcing parts/ planning things out. Cue 77m2 garage to be installed at the start of January. Until then when work shall begin in earnest. 

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  • 1 year later...

Forever since I posted anything. In summary garage built and quickly filled. Made a workbench. Car stripped. Engine front plate swapped and bulkhead/ tunnel relieved for engine to be moved back. New bonnet obtained and mocked up with planned wheel arches just to have a look. Cage has been in and out about 20 times trying to make it fit. Selection of photos below from all this. Next jobs are  fab  gearbox mount and getting the cage in and fitted properly. Along with the elise seats and pedal box so I can get driver position sorted before the body comes off. 

 

 

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Ha thanks folks. It really isn't to show off the garage but it certainly helps having somewhere proper to work. 

1 hour ago, clive said:

I am liking what I am seeing😎

What is happening with the wheels? Wider? or is the track changing?

I toyed with the idea of putting an mx5 rear end in but in the interest of ever getting back on the road it will keep the GT6 rear end with appropriate upgrades and some wider wheels. Thinking 0 offset 8s atm

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