redhill man Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 I wonder if any one can help, I have purchased a new pump for my Mk 3 Spitfire. The angle of the outlet is slightly different to the original (closer to the engine). I have tried bending the existing fuel pipe to suit, but it leaks quite badly. I need to fit a new pipe pump to carbs. All the part suppliers seem only to sell complete kits at around |£90. Does anyone know where I can purchase just the part I need. One local supplier suggests having the pipe made up locally I live in north west kent, any suggestions on this would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Hello. If you take the original pipe to a decent local independent garage they should be able to make the new shape pipe - explain what you want to achieve; perhaps even a coat hanger showing the new required shape will assist them. Copper is quite forgiving so any final minor tweaks should be no problem on fitting. Do not go to a main dealer - they will not have a clue what you are talking about, nor the grey matter to carry out the job. Good luck. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 I think it is just a length of pipe you need? no t pieces in it? (think the 6 cylinder cars have t pieces) Anyway, if this is the case you need about 2m of copper pipe, really easy to bend bu hand BUT do use a former (ie a beer bottle, can of soup or whatever) to get a nice bend without kinking. Pretty sure it is 6mm pipe you need, and a 10m roll is about £10-15. Though a lot of independent accessory shops sell it by the metre. Just take care with the cut ends, no sharp edges left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redhill man Posted June 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Thanks for the help guys, will try my local small garage Monday. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 My GT6 had several short metal pipes coupled by rubber hoses between pump and carbs. On the recommendation of Uncle Pete I have replaced the whole lot with one length of rubber hose. This reduces the dread "rubber slivers" problem and works fine, as long as you use the right grade rubber tube! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Which has to be R9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Yes! It is also cheaper than £90! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Your local DiY will have copper pipe in various sizes, 22mm, 15, 10, 8, and 6mm. They will also have T-pieces, right and 45 degree angle pieces, reducers and expanders (sane thing really). The self-soldering fittings are not really suitable for fuel, so look for compression fittings - bit more expensive but make the job even easier! See: http://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/pipe-fittings/cat4620006?productdiameter=10_mm&cm_sp=managedredirect-_-plumbing-_-10mmcompression John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jondhm Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Suggest you don't use copper pipe. It conducts heat very well, and so increases the risk of fuel vaporisation under a hot bonnet. Interested to hear what other people think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 I think the amount of cross section and fuel contained within a section of copper pipe around the engine bay will not add a significant amount towards the overall fuel vaporisation problem; but yes it will add slightly. I still run with the branched copper pipework on the Vitesse joining the 2x Storm's. The real culprit is the carbs "cooking" nicely over the exhaust manifold that really does present an issue, especially when the engine is switched off and then fired up again about 10 minutes later. Placing s/s heat shields between the carbs & exhaust manifold really does assist preventing vaporisation and makes for easier restarts when the engine has been switched off. Another alternative, and I have done it with my other classic, is to re-route the fuel pipe to maximise its distance away from engine bay hot spots. Doug has mentioned using rubber fuel line and that's a very good alternative; especially as R9 is slightly thicker walled than lower classification "R" fuel hoses. On the Alpine I have used R9 90% of the fuel route within the engine bay and it has certainly assisted in reducing fuel vaporisation although in fairness it was never a big issue - but every bit helps !! Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 Further to Richard's comments having had a problem last year enroute Classic Le Mans, and subsequently fitting heat reflective sleeve http://www.hilltop-products.co.uk/cable-sleeving-protection/heat-reflective-sleeving/hilflex-afs.html Whilst chasing down temperatures along the fuel line from before the pump to the carbs that there was noticeable (15c) variation between the front and rear carb inlet temperatures. I could only put this down to the gap between the S/S heat shields and the manifold heat rising through the gap. Problem invariably apparent after being stuck in traffic and then cleared, well that problem did, once cooled down underway. Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted May 13, 2018 Report Share Posted May 13, 2018 Hi. Reboot of topic.? Can someone confirm CORRECT dia for a Herald Fuel Pipe. I have seen conflicting dimensions (31/16? 1/4" 8mm and 10mm?). The pipe that (did not!) come with the car, and the only short piece was very corroded!. My Gut feeling is to use 8mm Copper?, but maybe 6mm would be adequate?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 13, 2018 Report Share Posted May 13, 2018 use what suits you best ,just get the right sized sleeve nuts to fit the pump, (if its a flare or olive fitting) if theres any push on and hose clip connectors .like on the carbs and the top of the fuel tank outlet then you need pipe and hose to be the same size , clamping an 8 mm hose onto a 6mm tube is bad practice for air leaks /fuel leaks Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted May 13, 2018 Report Share Posted May 13, 2018 Hi R9 Fuel hose. Is it resistant to modern "additives"?. There is also some "online" discourse as to the best source?. Some are not regarded as genuine?. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 13, 2018 Report Share Posted May 13, 2018 R9 is what we consider the latest hose spec to be resistant to enthanol I guess there are some higher priced upgrades from some racing supplires Its best to use an approved hose supplier not an undefined fleabay fits all eastern rubber mix Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 13, 2018 Report Share Posted May 13, 2018 11 hours ago, PeteH said: Reboot of topic.? Can someone confirm CORRECT dia for a Herald Fuel Pipe. I'm pretty sure all Heralds had 1/4" fuel pipe originally. Later cars (Mk4 Spitfire, Dolomite) got 5/16" mostly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 13, 2018 Report Share Posted May 13, 2018 Pete. If you want the best - use Codan: http://www.eurosport-uk.net/shop/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&zenid=6661ab8178ab65b3d7600004c5b50482&keyword=r9 Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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