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GEARBOX TUNNEL RUBBER & INSULATING


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Hello.

Before I start searching & phoning, does anybody know if the rubber sealing strip that runs along the edges of the Vitesse g/box tunnel is available, please ??

Additionally, what have other owners done to insulate / noise reduce the g/box side of the tunnel ??

I was looking along the lines of this:

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RATTLEMATT-x-20-SHEETS-Car-Audio-Sound-Deadening-Proofing-Sheets-Pads-Panels/300894542405?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Many thanks.

Richard.

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Richard,

My understanding is that Dynamat works best at stopping drumming/booming by altering the resonant frequency of the panel it's attached to. To attenuate the transmission of noise through a panel you need to add mass and to stop heat you need insulation. I've found that the best product to provide an effective combination of these properties is supplied by an outfit called NKThermal. It's called Lead Sandwich and is exactly what it's name suggests.  https://www.nkgroup.co.uk/product/noisekiller-lead-sandwich-material/   

Needless to say it is heavy (not to mention pricey) and you'll need to support the material on the underside of the transmission tunnel with repair washers. I've attached a picture of the material applied to my tunnel. It added about 5kg.

Wayne

 

IMG_1357.JPG

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I used Silent Coat and yes, it is unexpectedly heavy. It also has the benefit of sealing all those holes in the bulkhead and stopping heat coming into the cabin. I'm hoping to get rid of my regulation GT6 shorts this summer.

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silent-Coat-2mm-Bulk-Pk-40-Sheets-Car-Van-Sound-Deadening-Vibration-Proofing-Mat/151155678947?epid=1350639096&hash=item2331949ee3:g:Rx0AAOSw241YmyaU

The gearbox sealing kit from the club shop is quite pricey, £30, for what is just draught excluder tape plus the screws and clamps, which should be recoverable from the existing instillation. The plastic tunnels on the other hand are very good value.

Doug

 

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Thanks Wayne & Doug, certainly plenty of choice [insulating material] with prices across the range.

Doug - I agree, the sealing kit is expensive but I am assuming that the sealing strip is in one continuous length with moulded angles accordingly :rolleyes: keeping the route of the box.

I will give Phoenix Trim a buzz and see what they have, the rubber trim looks to be quite standard so hopefully PT may well stock it: http://phoenixtrim.co.uk/

2017 catalogue attached.

Regards.

Richard.

 

Phoenix Trim Catalogue - 2017.pdf

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I have always ditched the silly rubber seal which will not seal the years of wonky  metal and tunnel flanges and  bought from places like dunelm cut from a 25mm thick  sheet nice wide strips and glued them to the tunnel flanges

this takes up and seals up every nook and cranny for good  just an alternative idea and cheap !!!

 

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Have a look at the suppliers up at Stoneleigh. There is always a selection of "stuff" available that can be re-purposed. There are some useful foam seals, and indeed insulation kits. 

I have found domestic carpet underlay to be very good. In particular the very heavy rubber crumb type, made from old tyres IIRC!. A layer on the cabin side of the tunnel, and something similar to the original "rockwool in a bag" underneath does a decent job. And in the past I have used a silicone sealant around the tunnel, surprisingly easy to cut with a sharp knife if you need to remove the tunnel at any point.

Just a thought...

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I purchased the sealing kit from the Club Shop and IMO it was not worth it - The peel off tape was not effective - To get the tape to seal I used Gorilla Glue - the one you wet then than add the glue - The glue then expands and the seal wont budge - Next time I would visit a carpet shop or find a draught excluder  + Gorrila glue -

Im another fan of Silent Coat and used it throughout my Vitesse - Brilliant stuff and half the price of Dynamat - Not sure if its been mentioned make a "door" for your gearbox level filler 

When using Slient Coat - preheat each sheet using an electric heat gun or hairdryer 

Paul 5a672938030fb_2017-04-1813_44_30.thumb.jpg.d39808ef13d9c70952f173abecab733e.jpg5a672958c3c95_2017-04-1813_45_48.thumb.jpg.383e13a39b610530e7086f7138c2e65f.jpg

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Hi

 

Some of the seals supplied (James Paddock for instance) are not that good 

The seal Wayne pictures above I got from Canleys in the end and found it to be much better.

For heat insulation ( as i am a cheapskate!) I used  radiator silver reflective sheet, and its worked very well

 

Aidan

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35 minutes ago, clive said:

 

I have found domestic carpet underlay to be very good. In particular the very heavy rubber crumb type, made from old tyres IIRC!. 

I'm continually singing the praises of modern car underfelt, waterproof, quite soundproof and usually given away free. Scrappies just don't want the stuff. For heat insulation, try to get a sheet of under-bonnet insulation from a higher-end car such as an old Beemer or Merc; it can be cut to size and again given away for pennies whereas back in the day it was hugely expensive to replace.

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Around here you are not allowed anywhere near a car at a "scrappie". Nearest you get is the sales counter....

Gone are the good old days or taking your toolkit and climbing around a pile of cars. I had assumed the rules had tightened up nationally, but it appears not!

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Folks.

Very interesting and I appreciate the photos as well.

I have a spare fibre tunnel box which is in very good condition, compared to the one I have just removed from the car.

The original ST seal was shaped and either came as a continuous loop or butted up only once.

Looking at the photos this is the correct seal profile for the tunnel, which appears to be quite generic as far as profiles go. I believe the centre edges should be facing each other which provides a guide to seat the securing "key hole" plates - I think !! Provided the seal is not too thick it should be possible to shape it in relation to the tunnel.

Definitely worth contacting Phoenix Trim.

Regards.

Richard.

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Mmmmmm, that's a good point Doug.

So what you are saying, is bring the matting out further then seat it along the area that the rubber seal would sit ??

Would you secure via screws or some form of sealant ??

Regards.

Richard.

 

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Richard,

Yes, it came to me in a blinding flash! :lol: Fold it over the lip, it doesn't matter if it sticks out a bit, it's going to be covered by carpet.

I've already have the clamps and screws so I'll use them. Sealant, not sure. If the tunnel has to come off again I'd use a Stanley knife to slit the sealant and would have to be very careful not to damage the Silent Coat. But I've got lots of it so, maybe.

I also wonder about the gearbox access flap. Last time I had the tunnel off and topped up the gearbox I used a socket on the access bolt despite it being a square end.  I have a cutter for drilling 2" holes (Recessed ceiling lights) It would have to be accurately done but, a neater solution than a great big square hole?

Doug

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15 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

I've already have the clamps and screws so I'll use them.

Doug.

The "keyhole" clamps / plates, I take it sit on top of the tunnel ??

So in essence you have: "keyhole" plate / tunnel / seal / vehicle bodywork / screw securing plate (cannot recall correct name) all held in place by the screw ??

Regards.

Richard.

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