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GT6 engine on eBay worthwhile spare?


AidanT
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Aidan,

Yes, KE2 is a 1973, so late mk3, confirmed by the rocker cover breather pipe arrangement to the carbs.  These will be CDSE 150s with the dread temperature compensators which you can just make out in the picture.

I would go get it, if it was nearer, £20! Worth it for the bits.

Doug

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Stick with the mk 2 versions  its   better engine    it the ME bugs you grind the number off then its what ever you want it to be

But a mk1 with small head studs and offset porting, ( you cant use your current manifolds)coupled with leaky pushrod tubes 

Even if you love mk1 why would you take a backwards step??

 

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Hi Pete

My thoughts were to get and slowly refurb another engine (probably over a year or so)  and I don't want to lay the car up for that length of time

I have not done much research on which engine would be the best to work from. 

Which cars had the mk2 engine? Or is that as stupid a question as it looks? GT6 or 2000 saloon or both?

Aidan  

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What a sad picture!

It has been left outside in the rain for  .. how many winters?

It will be seized solid.It looks   like anything attached to it is either broken, seriously corroded or both.

I think if you  look carefully you will see the characteristic marks left by the ten foot barge poles possesed only by the most brave.

 

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The late GT6 Mk3 engine was an attempt to combine common elements in the production of the 2 and 2.5 litre engines. The block and basic head were the same on both. As the stroke was less on the 2 Litre domed pistons had to be used to raise the compression.

The GT6 Mk3 engine had a lower compression ratio and a cam with less overlap than the Mk2. The Vitesse Mk2, GT6 Mk2 and early Mk3 (Up to KE10000) had the same engine. The early Triumph 2000 saloon (Up to ME50000) was fitted with the Mk2 engine, however it had the Mk1 camshaft with less overlap. The 2000 saloon also has a heaver flywheel.

Dave

Edited by dave.vitesse
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Thanks all

If you were planning on rebuilding an engine for an eventual swap over (not upgrading to Pi or 2500), what would be the best engine to start with (assuming that they are not hens teeth!)

Thanks

 

Aidan

 

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It all depends on what you are using the car for. The early PI TR5/6 quotes as 150 BHP SAE. Early PI Saloon, Mk1/2 132 BHP SAE. Post 1972/3 the power reduced to 125 BHP DIN on both TR and Saloon.  The UK carb 2500 Saloon the TC had an output of 99 BHP DIN and the later 2500S 106 BHP DIN. Both with around 150 ftlb torque. If you used a 2500S engine this has the better head, 219016. The better head can be used on the 2500TC engine. Both carb engines have a CR of around 8.5 to 1 and non sporty cams.

The carb engine is normally used as a basis to produce a hotted up engine. For road use one route is to raise the compression of the S head to least 9 to 1 and use a Mk2 cam. Plus HS6 carbs and sports exhaust. This will give 125 to 130 BHP with loads of torque. Other than that go for a late 125 PI. Both very usable and tractable. But watch the diff, been there!

For track more power is required so use Webbers carbs, high CR and cam with more overlap. Or go for an early 150 PI. Plus balance the engine.

Dave 

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Thanks Dave,

Not really looking to increase power to any extent, my current engine (an ME) is OK for the moment  and was rolling road measured @ 93 bhp  a couple of years ago apart from burning a little too much oil.

I was thinking more about like for like replacement in terms of power but re-built by me as a project in itself. 

Aidan

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In that case Aidan just keep an eye out for Mk2 Vitesse or GT6 engine, it is still worth balancing the engine. Don't go for too much Comp Ratio but you can do a bit of "Blue Printing" (matching manifold and slight smoothing of ports, ensuring all clearnances are on spec) which will gain a little power but keep the flexiblity. You might consider a few mods such as electronic ignition, spin on oil filter (they do little for performance but do make servicing easier, so save performance).

The engines do come up but the wait for the right engine is part of the fun and you can get some of the bits in prep, they can always be used on your current engine if you don't find another engine (but I would be shocked if you didn't find one).

 

PS

The hardest bit is finding an engine with all the outer bits still bolted to it and not damaged. The main engine is fairly common but the silly little things like manifolds, carb linkages are what always seem to be missing.

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Hi following the post with interest . My interest is the same as Aidan, I have a Vitesse mk2 and recently purchased a spare mk2 engine with carbs and dizzy . Long term plan is to refurb though which engine parts would you balance . My plan is to replace like for like so no competition work. Reliability and efficiency is what I’m looking for

Paul 

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Hi Aidan. I purchased the engine from a dealer close to Royston. I’ll dig out his details and pm them. The engine appears to be been stored inside,  and the dealer said there was “ minimal end float “ . Because I didn’t know what that meant I took his word for it !!!! How do you test for end float ? 

The carbs are what I really wanted and they are correct for the Mk 2 Vitesse and appear to be in good condition , no spindle wear and hopefully not too  expensive to refurbish . The Lucas dizzy appears to be ok and will refurbish at some time  . I paid £150 ex Royston . The dealer loaded the engine onto my trailer with a forklift , it’s very heavy ie over 200kgs . 

Hope this helps.

Paul 

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Paul

 

Thanks for the information, Royston is a couple of hours down the A1 from me so please PM me with the details. Do they deliver as I don't have a trailer, although I do know someone who has!

I believe end float to be the lateral movement of the crankshaft, not sure if there's a specific tool to measure it but it tells you what condition the main bearings are in. I'm sure we will get some comments now on this :)

Aidan

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Take hold of the crankshaft pulley and pull / push - you'll see movement, and excessive movement is a sign of worn thrust washers. I've seen engines move around an inch in and out so are usually badly worn. At the other end you'll see the flywheel move in and out.

I bought a 2 litre engine back when I bought my S/H gearbox, in fact the owner threw it in to get rid of it. It was seized solid through years of lying outdoors, but yielded a lot of useful spares such as a head suitable for recon, flywheel, distributor pedestal etc. Pistons were thrown out but I think most of the rest, including the block went to other members for reconditioning and rebuild. As our cars get older many of the parts are no longer available new, and suppliers rarely keep a stock of exchange items any more, so if you want one reconditioned you have to supply one. You might as well supply one that really needs it and get your money's worth... 

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14 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

Paul,

My engine had end float when I first got my car, about 1/4". Needed a re-bore because of it, the bores wear in an elongated S shape as the crank moves back an forth.

Doug

Ouch!

Aidan  :wacko:

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