ShaunW Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 Guys. Been out for a short drive (10mls) left car for 30min now it won't start. It'll catch but only run for a few secs. Did run for about 30s and I got 50yds and it durd. Elecs seem fine. Is the answers to leave it an hour or call the AA It's always started fine. It's a 2500 non pi. Help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyb Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 have you any water to pour over the fuel pump and carbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunW Posted June 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 No. But I could get some. Btw THANKS for the reply. I've not had to start her from hot before so your suggestion is making me think that must be the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 How did it die? Immediately or struggle then die? Loose power, miss fire? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunW Posted June 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 Pretty much stopped suddenly the one time it seemed to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 You have probably already done this but on top of Danny's suggestion have a look inside the dizzy at the central contact check it's not burnt away Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunW Posted June 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 Thx Aidan. Will try that when I've finished my (less relaxing than I planned) shandy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunW Posted June 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 I'm home She just needed to cool down. Thanks for the help. My next mission will be finding out how to stop it happening. Phew! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyb Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 That's a relief I know the feeling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 Shaun, Sometimes the tank vent gets blocked and there's a build up of pressure in the tank, eventually defeating the pump. When it happens open the fuel cap, is there a woosh of air? I also suffered from sludge in the fuel lines, I dyno rodded them out with strimmer cord. A friend ran out off fuel and filled up from a small tank, unknown to him a heavy washer came off the spout and would periodically get sucked over the fuel tank outlet blocking the line. Took weeks to find the cause. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunW Posted June 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 Cheers Doug. Interesting idea to use strimmer cord. I'm as convinced as I can be that I'm getting fuel and the tank is vented well. Temps seem to have been the problem. After an hour parked in the shade it was like there'd never been a problem. Does make me wonder why it doesn't happen more often, the engine temp wasn't especially high, maybe 90ish according to the dial I use to set my electric fan cut in temp, and with the exhaust manifold so close to the inlet manifold which is also heated. This issue is new to me. When it's running it seems good so I don't think it's something like the choke being stuck on or an especially rich mixture. I searched the forum for vapour lock and also hot start and didn’t find anything which I thought was strange. If anyone can point me at some further reading either here or elsewhere that would be great. I don't want to worry every time the sun comes out because that's the only time I use her. I was amazed at how quickly I got a reply. This place really is the 5th(?) emergency service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 Early signs of coil/condensor breaking down? Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 The logic behind Danny's suggestion is that, when you let the car sit for a half hour after a run, the residual heat soaks out into places that would normally be cooled by flow of air or fuel. If the pump gets hot enough to vaporise the fuel inside, it doesn't actually pump very well. I certainly had my VItesse get into a "can't run, won't run" state on a hot day, which was instantly cured, at least for a while, by pouring a cup of cold water over the fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 Shaun, I wouldn't worry about vapour lock unless you're racing and thrashing it. It's unlikely. I would be looking at electrics or fuel blockage, might even be Uncle Pete's dread rubber slivers blocking the carbs. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunW Posted June 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 Thanks NM, I've got an electronic fuel pump so I'm safe on that count. Good point Yorkshire, condenser was new when I got the car (12mths ago) but the coil does look a bit tired. Doug, I only mentioned vapour lock because I'd heard of it. It's a case of a little knowledge being a misleading thing I suspect. So, time for a fresh coil I think...any recommendations? Just regular driving around locally most of the time, I don't mind going better than budget but probably not worth spending silly money on a super dooper one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 I had a new condenser fail on me in 3months.... Depending on the quality 12 months could be "old". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 Avoid lucas branded and intermotor coils....best out there are probably the bosch ones? 12v one below for non-ballasted ignition https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/search/413110037?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmPPYBRCgARIsALOziAOYnoDRXvz0PsEiOSlrny5zdL1a_ngaN5oxjrayLHvWg4HY7vVFivEaAvINEALw_wcB I had trouble with new condensers being poor, and fitted electronic ignition. In 20 plus years over 5 cars no issues (longest was 12 years as an everyday car, but my herald estate was about 10 years, our mini 5 and the current toledo has a cheap stealth one, 3 years and all faultless) Re cooling, does the fan stay on with the ignition off? that will help. And are the carbs heat shielded? Again pretty essential. Failing that, there may be a reason GT6 owners have a propensity for leaving their bonnets up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 38 minutes ago, clive said: Failing that, there may be a reason GT6 owners have a propensity for leaving their bonnets up... Oddly, my GT6 has never shown the slightest hint of any overheating problem. Even stuck in North Circular traffic after the hottest RBRR on record, with the gauge climbing rapidly past 3/4, it was merely "hot" and not even mildly "bothered". Unlike the occupants. Edit: Actually there was the start of the Shakespeare's Summer Scatter, when the 50-year-old hose from the manifold to the return pipe decided to fail just as we parked up, but cutting off the split end and re-connecting made it good for another few thousand miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 Rob, Get yourself a polyurethane tunnel lined with heat/sound deadening, same stuff on the bulkhead, then discover your heater hasn't been working for several decades. Clive, Lucus is no longer Lucus unless it's old stock. (But you knew that! ) My Aldon, about the most expensive EI you can buy, recently failed, 3 years old. Always carry points, capacitor and fixing bits in a plastic bag in the glove compartment. Otherwise you have to summon a son-in-law to help you collect the bag from the garage. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 Doug, I had a look at Lucas's history. Seems a few years ago the owners basically put making the stuff out to tender...... Sounds perfect for making sure you are producing quality stuff but means low overheads and risk, at least for the company owners. Prior to the stealth unit in my toledo, all had been pertronix (aldon are pertronix with a new label stuck over the pertronix one) and as far as I know, still OK. I do worry about the toledo unit. Points wouldn't help much, as all he gubbins are under the advance weights/springs. Dreadful design. Still, fitting new advance springs was easy. Rob, since that RBRR I reckon fuel has changed.... I think the early cars with the louvres helped when a car was left. Maybe a fan that whirrs away for 20 mins after shutoff is the answer.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 I got sick of the poor quality replacement point and condensor units and just put the cheap "SimonBBC" Powerspark unit in. It might not be map-able etc. but it's done good service on 1xRBRR and 2x10CR over a 4 year (about 14K miles) period without any issues. Yes, I still carry a "known good" points unit, screwdriver and feeler gauges in the boot, so far (touch wood) I've never needed them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 1 hour ago, clive said: Rob, since that RBRR I reckon fuel has changed.... I think the early cars with the louvres helped when a car was left. Maybe a fan that whirrs away for 20 mins after shutoff is the answer.... Yes, fuel has definitely changed, which I suspect is why it gave 36MPG on that one and never better than 28 in the last ten years. This doesn't seem to have affected its heat tolerance much, beyond an annoying tendency to low speed misfires when pulling away gently in traffic, although that seems more related to modern NGK plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunW Posted June 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 5 hours ago, clive said: Avoid lucas branded and intermotor coils....best out there are probably the bosch ones? 12v one below for non-ballasted ignition https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/search/413110037?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmPPYBRCgARIsALOziAOYnoDRXvz0PsEiOSlrny5zdL1a_ngaN5oxjrayLHvWg4HY7vVFivEaAvINEALw_wcB Re cooling, does the fan stay on with the ignition off? that will help. And are the carbs heat shielded? Again pretty essential. Failing that, there may be a reason GT6 owners have a propensity for leaving their bonnets up... Yes my fan stays on without the ignition. I've got it set at about 85. I'm interested that you say I need a non ballasted coil. I thought I'd read elsewhere that having the extra pale pink wire to the - ve meant it was ballasted? That said my engine is a CP and the listings I saw for coils seemed to say that pre CR1 is non ballasted and post CR1 is ballasted. I'm guessing it's not the engine that's the issue, more than the ignition system that was installed when certain engines were being installed?? I'll go measure the resistance across it and report back. Carbs aren't heat shielded. Is there a part number I should be looking at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunW Posted June 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 It's 3.1ohms. I've just ordered the coil you recommended Clive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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