Nick Jones Posted September 17, 2018 Report Share Posted September 17, 2018 Trying to get a seal for my GT6 hatch sorted so I can fettle the hatch fit "under load", as it were. This is the seal between body lip and hatch. The PO (bless him!) had slung all the old seals, so I don't know what the original looked like. Bought one from MEV Spares that quoted the OE number (as do Rimmers, Canleys, Paddocks et al) and this is one that they call a "top seal" where the bubble sits above the push-on channel. The pic doesn't quite match what I have - the bubble is soft foam rubber about 11mm in diameter and has a further 5mm tail sticking straight up. It's soft and squashy, but the chance of getting the hatch shut with it in place is the square root of FA. So it's wrong. Found this old thread on CT forumhttps://www.club.triumph.org.uk/menu/6023/item/151585/view Where people variously suggest they should actually be side seals where the bubble (or lip) sits along-side the push-on channel. There is also the the debate as to whether it should be bubble (pic), double bubble (no pic) .......... or lip Don't care what's original, just want something that works..... Can anyone advise please? Thanks Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 17, 2018 Report Share Posted September 17, 2018 Have a browse at the guys who make just about every seal there is https://www.coh-baines.co.uk/ Very helpful and cost effective manufacturer pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2018 Looked there Pete. Good company who do a good range of styles and sizes and appear to be smart enough not to stick their necks out as to which is the one that best suits a GT6 hatch..... Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted September 17, 2018 Report Share Posted September 17, 2018 No idea whether it is correct or not, but mine has a single lip seal. Never known it to leak and the hatch sits nicely flush, unlike many struggling with the oversize bubble seal. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 18, 2018 Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 Think we need to start a ban on all bubble seals on small chassis cars as very few were ever used but theres lots for sale that never fit or make door closing a feat of extra 6 shreaded wheat and that just overloads the latches and body work Door seals for the 2000 saloon are ridiculous like triumph took a a day to trim a door , Baines was the rescue took 5 mins with the right profile Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 18, 2018 Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 Nick, That's my thread on Club Triumph 4 years ago, arguing with the Gurus! I went to a car show and it tipped down, a wash out. However I did find the leak in the hatch (and the windscreen ). I ordered a hatch seal and got the first in your diagrams, the "i" section. My original was the "L" section, the second in your diagrams, never the less I tried to fit the new one. No chance! The hatch stuck out like a mushroom, also the locking mechanism would have to be moved to allow the hatch to be locked. I ordered the "L" section from Woollies, described as a door seal, but it fits, hatch flush with the body, water tight. As you can see everybody on CT said "L" section is wrong and it should be "I" section, however, it was "L" section in 1978 when I bought the car. The (one) previous owner was a numpty who never once oiled his trunnions and sold the car because the ash trays were full. So I'm certain it came from the factory like that. Recently someone else asked about this on here and I had an argument with a guy who was adamant it should be "I" section. He described himself as a refugee from CT, you may see a pattern there! I did considered the seal in the third diagram at the time, but I think the "L" section compresses better and gives a better seal. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted September 18, 2018 Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 Probably the original seal from a MK1 GT6 - certainly not changed since the late 70's, so if its not the original seal it would have been a genuine one from Triumph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 It's strange....... The one I have looks alot like that Kevin, but really no chance of shutting the hatch with it fitted. True the lower 1/4 of the hatch opening has "history" and the hatch itself is not original to the car, but TBH I don't think the hatch would shut properly even with just the top half of the seal fitted - it is that tight. Are all the hatches the same? I thought they were....... My car is an earlyish Mk3. The hatch is possibly a bit later as it appears to have been carmine red originally. Going to have to try a different style one...... Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted September 18, 2018 Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 I suspect the rubber employed has changed over the years. The aged door seals on mine are much softer than the replacements available now. Another example is the lousy gearstick gaiters available now - much thicker and less flexible than the originals. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted September 19, 2018 Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 I have noticed the thickness of modern 'rubber' and how hard it is on both new handbrake and clutch/brake master cylinder gaiters. Very hard to manipulate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted September 19, 2018 Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 Perusing John Thomason's 'Guide to Originality', it is not very clear but I reckon Doug's L section is the closest, and works for him. I have an I section, albeit on a Mk1, and whilst watertight it does mean the lower edge of the tailgate stands a bit proud of the reconstructed body shell. I have also tried a lip ( https://www.coh-baines.co.uk/products/DX-72-%2d-Composite-self-grip-type-draught-excluder.html) which worked but not as well for me; however, it does avoid a rubber bubble (where is this going!). Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 19, 2018 Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 Dick, I think, with mine, it was the end of the line and they used whatever was to hand to push it down the line. I've also had "differences of opinion" about my fuel line between pump and carb. I've replaced the whole thing with R9 pipe, but originally it was metal pipe with THREE rubber joints. I'm told this isn't standard, but that's what I had! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted September 20, 2018 Report Share Posted September 20, 2018 Hi Nick I have the lip type seal on my Mk2. I thought it was OK until last night until I realised that the top section of the seal (ie along the hinges) had flipped itself inwards. I have held it the correct position with some temporary gaffer tape and shut the hatch to try and 're-train' it. Please keep us posted on your investigations, as I think I will have to replace mine eventually. Ian PS Pleased to see you back in the garage where you belong !. PPS -Also posted on Sideways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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