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GT6 MkII Resto (1st One)


Martie
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My 1st thought was to get the body work completed but my welding skills aren't up to scratch yet for replacing panels. I did manage to replace the battery tub, so decided to get the entire car stripped down to the chassis and get some extra welding practice in on scrap metal in-between waiting for parts. 

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I managed to separate the body from the chassis using an engine host, metal bar and straps. I was going to weld some reinforced bar inside but after reading various posts online I decided to keep the door and windscreen frame in to keep the car from buckling. which worked fine. 

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This was the 1st time I'd seen the chassis in all its glory! very pleasantly surprised it did have a little damage on one of the outriggers but all round surface rust, grime and oil!

Following a lot of degreaser, and rubbing down I managed to get it fully stripped back to bare metal. 

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This weekend I managed to repair the damage on the outrigger and start applying primer. My plan is to give it 2 coats of rust preventative primer, a coat of anti chip and 2 coats of its original colour. Doing this will return the car back to its original colour VALENCIA BLUE 66, in my option is a beautiful colour!

This week the plan is to finish grinding down the rear end (has required extra effort due to surface rust) painting the chassis and get discs, drums, bolts, etc cleaned ready to be painted and rebuilt. 

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I thought about replacing the whole thing, but the part I patched didn’t over lap the original welds and did overlapped the chassis so don’t think strength would be an issue. I’ve had a car welder friend have a look today following your comment and he said it’s fine it shouldn’t effect strength hardly at all. I’ll soon find out when it’s all put back together  

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  • 2 months later...
2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Cant really see in the photo but a 6cly rack  ratio  should have a small identification groove   around the input shaft 

that looks like a 4 cyl rack ??  which only has the groove for  the clamp bolt

Pete

Hi Pete What’s the difference between a 4 & 6? What does it relate to? Thank you 

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On 07/11/2018 at 15:46, Martie said:

this lot is now all clean so my girlfriend won’t be seeing me a while. 

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Did you use new top ball joints? Those are missing their rubber boots and if you're taking them off to replace those, you may as well replace the entire unit. I can't see from the pic of the assembled wishbones if the boots are already fitted, but it's just a small point. It'll save you having to do it later on and take the car off the road for a spell when you could be out enjoying it.

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Unless its been changed the 6cly is so much heavier then 4cyl that it has a lower ratio rack with small groove around the input splines.

Some like whats called a fast rack (being a 4cyl in a 6cyl car ) but parking and maneuvering  many need 6 shreaded wheat for breaky

6 cly steering is heavy enough with the right rack ,  add fatter tyres and it gets worse.

I can dig out the ratios tomorrow .

Pete

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On 24/01/2019 at 09:13, Colin Lindsay said:

Did you use new top ball joints? Those are missing their rubber boots and if you're taking them off to replace those, you may as well replace the entire unit. I can't see from the pic of the assembled wishbones if the boots are already fitted, but it's just a small point. It'll save you having to do it later on and take the car off the road for a spell when you could be out enjoying it.

Yeah I put new ball joints on the spindles, roll bar and steering, somebody else hopefully will be out enjoying it. The pleasure for me is in the learning and restoring! 

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