Seized rear, trunnions, (or not yet).

[Guest]

3 minutes ago, iana said:

Its a non-rotoflex, but its putting up a fight, Ive resorted to the 1/2 socket set and a breaker bar.

Ensuring the socket is a tight fit and the other end is secured to prevent movement, the breaker bar is your best option - hell of a pressure created but that's its only master !!

I had a few issues when I changed over to the CV conversion on my MK2. I wish I had used the breaker bar option to start with, it would have saved a lot of wasted time and using a hacksaw on one side. On deploying the bar on the other side, it was a doddle !!

Good luck Ian.

Regards.

Richard. 

[iana]

well Ive now spent a good few hours trying to free the bolt, the bolt turns relatively free but I still cant get it to drift out so Im assuming the steel tube and bolt are rusted solid and its rotating inside the plastic cups. its had a good soaking with a can of wilko's penetrating oil, some better quality penetrating oil from a plant fitter and Ive just tried a 3 in 1 oil to see if that seeps in, I wont get back to it till next week now. Just need to pluck up the courage to start with the hacksaw blade - Im struggling to see a way of getting in to cut the bolt off with a hacksaw.

[Pete Lewis]

if you cant saw it  its back to cut the head and nut off  with a  dremmel  disc and spread the upright   to relieve the remains of the stud 

    sod laws and all that.  

Pete

[daverclasper]

Hi Iana. I never did get mine out (only tried one side) and left it at that, as doesn't appear to be causing a problem at present.

I don't know if cutting through the bolt is a different scenario than front susp bushes. They were a case of carefully cutting through the bush/bolt, through about a 2mm? gap between wish bones, bottom chassis brackets/top turrets, as I remember.

Dave  

[iana]

Dave, I wish I hadnt started it now but the drivers side is all replaced and so I need to continue with the passenger side as Ive damaged the end of the bolt so cant now refix the nut. Im reconciled to removing the drive shaft, hub and link but I need to find a way to cut the bolt without pulling the hub. Im curious about Petes idea of a dremmel disc (Ive got a dremmel and a few bits and pieces but wouldnt know what disc to use to cut the bolt off) 

I did wonder if a multi tool would cut the bolt (Id need to but a tool and a suitable blade)

[Pete Lewis]

in my box of bits is about 30mm thin cutting disc,  easy to break and takes a while to slowly grind thro a bolt 

may need two discs for a bolt that size 

often buy boxed  kits from aldi /lidl they have them in , cant have too many can you  !!!

Pete

[daverclasper]

Yes. those very thin dremel discs could be good for that. They break if you sneeze on them. Go very slow, removing very small amount and avoid pressure/snatching.

Forgot to add I also did my front trunnions  with the nylon bushes with a junior hacksaw. I think I  levered the edges of the water/dust covers out the way with old screwdriver etc to gain access. Bit hair raising not to saw into the trunnions, but went ok.   

[Colin Lindsay]

Will a Dremel disc be of a large enough diameter to reach the bolt? Furthermore as Dave says they break at the slightest resistance. I've used very thin 4.5 inch grinder discs in the past; they can squeeze into the gap and cut the bolt without ruining anything else provided you have the access to get the grinder body at the correct angle. Best in my opinion is still a long hacksaw blade, if you can get a good comfortable handle like a padsaw handle to save the fingers. 

[Nigel Clark]

16 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Will a Dremel disc be of a large enough diameter to reach the bolt? Furthermore as Dave says they break at the slightest resistance. I've used very thin 4.5 inch grinder discs in the past; they can squeeze into the gap and cut the bolt without ruining anything else provided you have the access to get the grinder body at the correct angle. Best in my opinion is still a long hacksaw blade, if you can get a good comfortable handle like a padsaw handle to save the fingers. 

I agree with Colin about using a hacksaw blade. I've successfully cut the through bolt on my GT6 rear trunnion with a large hacksaw blade, gripped with thick work gloves to protect fingers.

Nigel

[Guest]

I'm not a big Dremel fan and I think they are overrated; ideal for hobby craft stuff but pretty useless for anything requiring a bit of wellie.

Of note, I have recently purchased one of these for doing confined area bodywork on the Vitesse including tight angle cutting. Running a 3" (75mm) blade and a compact unit it has proved  to be a viable purchase and I find I'm using it more often than I first envisaged. I have no doubt it will deal with the current thread issue. 

https://www.aimtools.co.uk/products/katsu-hobby-art-mini-electric-special-narrow-places-angle-grinder-3

The standard 4.5" (115mm) angle grinder / cutter is of course a superb tool where serious and long duration cutting is required especially with ultra thin discs.

The Katsu unit comes with 5x grinding discs, thus it will be necessary to purchase some cutters. Easy change disc nut and it also benefits from having a drill attachment. This particular unit is well catered for with 3" discs including ultra thin with numerous suppliers.

It does require a five minute rest every ten minutes but how likely are you to use this for ten minutes solid - if so you are using the incorrect tool for the job 😉 !!!

Sold on eBay etc for £24 but I note it is cheaper via this outlet but will require p&p added; I certainly would not pay more than the £24 all-in.

Certainly worth thinking about and a great addition to your tool armoury !!

Regards.

Richard. 

 

[68vitesse]

Or use a power file always found mine, a black and decker, very useful for grinding things down in tight spaces, but do not buy cheap belts. But you still need to lever the link of the remaining bit of bolt, always used the hacksaw blade method myself.

Similar to this but others available https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverstorm-247820-260W-13mm-Power/dp/B00J8UITSS/ref=asc_df_B00J8UITSS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205341469171&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6425535528283844180&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006964&hvtargid=pla-422430624871&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Regards

Paul

[Guest]

Indeed Paul, I have one of those and as you say a superb bit of kit and rigorous.

Regards.

Richard.

[Pete Lewis]

we have bought some dremmel equivalents for raffle prizes at Lidl for less than £20

pete

[Clive]

I have always used a 4 1/2" grinder with thin blade to attack trunnion bolts, front or rear. The g=drinder wont get all the way through from one side (mayeb that is just rear? Been a while!) but easily finished off with a hacksaw. 

I have used Richards 3" grinder, and indeed it does have a big advantage of getting in tight spaces. But it won't replace the 4 1/2" for general use. Likewise I have a lidl?aldi electric die grinder, a useful tool every now and again. And somewhere a cheap dremel type tool that barely gets used, certainly not for years. Now, a power file is something I ought to get, they are dead handy. Hmm, christmas is coming, daughters asking what I want......

[Colin Lindsay]

2 hours ago, classiclife said:

I'm not a big Dremel fan and I think they are overrated; ideal for hobby craft stuff but pretty useless for anything requiring a bit of wellie.

 

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

we have bought some dremmel equivalents for raffle prizes at Lidl for less than £20

pete

I have both the proper corded Dremel (£29.99 a good few years back) and the cordless Lidl (£14.99) equivalent; both useful in their own way for grinding, drilling or fine cleaning with wire brush attachments, but almost useless for cutting with discs. The discs are just too fine and shatter immediately, but it depends to some extent on the ones you buy - cheap ones are made of cardboard, better quality ones may last slightly longer. I go through a lot of the wire brushes but then I buy them in bulk online, about 50 at a time.

I've an Air die grinder but it makes my teeth go mad due to the whistling...

[Pete Lewis]

dremel types are good for small access jobs and do need the dexterity of a dentist  high speed and gentle works , but if you want to tackle the titanic  get an angle driver

all have good and limited uses .    its a job for the tool or the tool for the job syndrome

goggles and gloves are the common denominator what ever you use ,      

Pete

 

[iana]

I decided to have a go at cutting the trunnion bolt today, and success its all now apart! I removed the driveshaft / vertical link and had a fiddle with various options for cutting the bolt, initially the link was very stiff to rotate so cant have been good when the car being used.

I intially used a recipro saw which was initially very useful and then finshed with a standard hacksaw, then repeated the other side and success, the bolt was well siezed in the tube. Its all cleaned and painted ready for reassembly next week.

Next task is to buy some quality blades!

[Guest]

33 minutes ago, iana said:

the bolt was well siezed in the tube. Its all cleaned and painted ready for reassembly next week.

Well done Ian - that is an excellent result and you deserve a beer on the strength of that !!!

When I refitted the various components, I ensured that all had plenty of Copperease to assist disassembly next time around - hopefully I will not have to do that any time soon !!

Regards.

Richard.