DanMi Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 I would say a you want more than 1/8 slack to enable full lock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 On 25 February 2019 at 13:34, Pete Lewis said: Agree with that , some felts and tin cups are from something similar but grossly oversize Can be just completely useless Pete The ones supplied with the Club Shop bearing kits are fine and fit well. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 The "first operating position" seems to vary from trunnion to trunnion (perhaps depends on where the thread starts?) You need to make sure that the trunnion will allow the full range of lock to lock movement. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 The full lock angle on the small chassis cars is about 50deg, which is very slightly over 1/8 turn, plus you want a bit of headroom. As Wayne and Dan said, that means you want a bit more than 1/8 turn available - ideally 1/6 to 1/4 but they're not consistent so sometimes you end up needing a whole turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeaTear Posted March 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 I'll play about with it to see what seems best. It could be the new rubber oil seals are giving a deceptive tightness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeaTear Posted March 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2019 All is well, and I now have degreased and fully oiled trunnions. It's sad but I was so happy to see the excess oil seeping past the seal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 9, 2019 Report Share Posted March 9, 2019 Good job done Whats next Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeaTear Posted March 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2019 Next up, bleed the brake system as I've just rebuilt the calipers then turn dinosaurs into noise, smell and smiles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 29, 2019 Report Share Posted April 29, 2019 Hi. Just read that the bearings spin on the stubs. Had to do some work on the trunnions recently, in a hurry and hubs off, I guessed that they weren't supposed to spin, so, cleaned the bearing surface of stubs/inner bearing faces and put back together. Off for a long trip on Friday. Do I need to regrease these, please?. Thanks, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2019 Report Share Posted April 29, 2019 You only need to grease the bearing races filling the hub cavity is a waste of grease , and hold heat in the hub Yes all wheel bearing will spin the fronts the outer cup is fixed the inner rotates on the stub axle , On rears the inner race is tight on the shaft but the outer cup can rotate in the trunnion brg. Housing If the fronts were fixed you would need a drag to remove the hub and impossible to set the end float All,this is common practice so the impact loads are never in the same place Modern cassette bearing are a different kettle of fish. So dave, no more grease . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 30, 2019 Report Share Posted April 30, 2019 Cheers Pete. Saves me having to dismantle again. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HUB Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 Trunnion lube is on my to do list....Is it doable using Gear oil in a grease gun, or will oil go everywhere but through the nipple?? Thinking about a big syringe maybe too.....Give me a clue guys, Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 Some grease guns work, other leak. People have used a normal oilcan, filled with gear oil and just pressed against the hole in the upright. But if the trunnion has been previously greased, it may be a challenge. Syringe may do it, same caveat applies. Whatever you do, you need to jack the car up so the wheel is off the ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 you can use gear oil ep90 GL4 you may have a plug to remove and fit a nipple to use a grease gun many of us do this you can use a simple pump oil can and fill the reservoir thro' the plug hole or even in under the top seal lip. its advised to jack the car to remove any load from the threads , helps the oil circulate and cover areas that take the load Clive on it first , nowt on TV Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 I use a pump oil can, though seems it has to be at an angle for the end/nipple to seat squarish in the grease nipple hole. my tube is flexable, so ok. My top seals are newish, so I had to lever the side of seal out a bit, to allow for free passage of oil through trunnion. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HUB Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 Thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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