Guest Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 I was going to flag this, which I have done (!!): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunson-G4094-Clikadjust-Tappet-Adjuster/dp/B002WT4S1Y/ref=asc_df_B002WT4S1Y/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310586792281&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12593601439029491200&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045152&hvtargid=pla-640557444477&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 But perhaps it is the same tool you are referring to Colin ?? Some love it, some just do not understand how to use it. I have one of these Clickadjust units, but to date I have not used it, so cannot really comment. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Just out of interest. Aside from total peak running conditions , whats the minimum valve clearance you can safely have in road use, without burning valves do you reckon?. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 The gap ensures the valve does fully close so any gap is infinitely better than no gap which can hold the valve off its seat Remember when you close the gap you advance the cam timing a little Having a gap does ensure the valve closes during cold and hot running going for a smaller gap may at certain conditions be detrimental Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 3 hours ago, classiclife said: But perhaps it is the same tool you are referring to Colin ?? Yep same one. The theory is that you adjust one tappet, then click the others to exactly the same setting therefore no need for a feeler gauge. The problem is that you have to set the device up with - TWO - feeler gauges, tighten the tappet as far as it will go, then back off the required number of clicks, each one being 1000th of an inch, and then recheck with a feeler gauge. It's a lot of faffing about and probably easier just to use the spanner and screwdriver method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Clickadjust Yes mine lives in the back of the tool drawer , we played with on twiddle day to give some idea's feelers were proven easier It went back to ....the back . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 A lot of vauxhall engines had tappets that had to be adjusted whilst running..........If the rockers were worn? many chewed up feeler gauges. Mk1 cavaliers were a pig as they were ohc and there was a special tool to stop you getting covered in oil, but it was expensive.... so a kelloggs packet had to do, great till it fell off Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 Aha the old Boat rockers , but they worked Remember chrysler 180 and early ford cam with rockers they had a steep learning step to solve the rocker rubbing wear Simple idea with poor life never mind the feelers . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vit6iw Posted July 2, 2019 Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 I've got an SPQR tappet adjuster. Bought it back in the early 70s when I had my MG1100. I think Gunson must have taken them over as I've got one of theirs too. I bought some stuff off a mate, a Colortune was also in with it. I always used it back then and I've used it on my Vit6 after I'd removed the rocker shaft to fit new push-rods. It works a treat, I've never had a problem with it 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 2, 2019 Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 Must be really old, SPQR was an acronym from Ancient Rome. (Drift alert!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vit6iw Posted July 2, 2019 Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 1 minute ago, Badwolf said: Must be really old, SPQR was an acronym from Ancient Rome. (Drift alert!!) That's correct, usually seen on centurions banners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 2, 2019 Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 Small profit, quick return. Shed & Buried's motto. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted July 2, 2019 Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 On 11/06/2019 at 21:21, Pete Lewis said: The gap ensures the valve does fully close so any gap is infinitely better than no gap which can hold the valve off its seat Remember when you close the gap you advance the cam timing a little Having a gap does ensure the valve closes during cold and hot running going for a smaller gap may at certain conditions be detrimental Pete Hi. I was wondering, as due to rocker pad wear on some, I have been adjusting these by feel, related to the ones I know are good and hoping this was ok as long as it was within a 2/3 thou?. Rather not buy new rockers, though would be confident about dressing them, as I used to fine filing work for a while silver smithing, though not enough time at the moment for the car. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 2, 2019 Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 Dave , i dont see any problems with that or do your own click adjust, determine the amount of screw turn from a light fingered nip to get 0.010" and repeat that on the worn ones . even make a card disc on the head of the screw driver and mark the amount of rotation bit like timing marks Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kippermcflipper Posted July 7, 2019 Report Share Posted July 7, 2019 I just did mine, used a wide jaw adjustable spanner - bought mine for £20 from Toolstation. Strong, fits and treat and allowing the crank to be turned effortlessly, and precisely. Just remember to remove it before attempting to start the engine! As for the clearances, patience a screwdriver and feeler gauges and it works a treat. Can try and be as accurate with them as you like but ultimately they will wear/ heat will change the clearances anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 7, 2019 Report Share Posted July 7, 2019 I've always been a bit wary about adjusting tappets, hence they haven't been done for ages. Engine sounds a bit like a sewing machine on tick over. Is there anything that can be done to cause damage, like over tightening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted July 7, 2019 Report Share Posted July 7, 2019 Since I’ve replaced the head and retightened the head bolts and redone the tappet adjustments a couple of times, it’s now sounding a lot quieter on the top end. But I did buy a new set of tappets with bushed rockers some time ago so the pads are nice and smooth and now I’ve got the gap right (the paperwork with the cam -PH1 a is wrong and the conversion from metric to imperial is wrong, so was 2thou too loose. As it is they are 12/14thou inlet/exhaust compared to 10thou standard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted July 7, 2019 Report Share Posted July 7, 2019 2 hours ago, kippermcflipper said: I just did mine, used a wide jaw adjustable spanner - bought mine for £20 from Toolstation. Strong, fits and treat and allowing the crank to be turned effortlessly, and precisely. Just remember to remove it before attempting to start the engine! Having seen that done...... Get a paper clip on the spanner and clip the ignition key to it................. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted July 7, 2019 Report Share Posted July 7, 2019 1 hour ago, Badwolf said: I've always been a bit wary about adjusting tappets, hence they haven't been done for ages. Engine sounds a bit like a sewing machine on tick over. Is there anything that can be done to cause damage, like over tightening? Simple job Badwolf, just follow the manual and dont be to heavy handed... You cant really break anything, if you hav'nt done them before? Just take your time, it's a really rewarding job. Tony. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted July 7, 2019 Report Share Posted July 7, 2019 44 minutes ago, poppyman said: Having seen that done...... Get a paper clip on the spanner and clip the ignition key to it................. Tony. That’s a good idea to be fair. I bought a set of large spanner’s that included a 46mm - which is the metric equivalent. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F382498679870 Works a treat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 8, 2019 Report Share Posted July 8, 2019 Yes father in law used to gorilla the locking 1/2 nut and sheared the tappet screw it was a 1200 cortina He did this repeatedly drove me..... nuts All it needs is a nice hand nip , Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 8, 2019 Report Share Posted July 8, 2019 12 hours ago, poppyman said: Having seen that done...... Get a paper clip on the spanner and clip the ignition key to it................. Tony. Then walk round the garage for days searching drawers looking for both the key and the spanner, until you remember where it is; usually when it falls off after you've given up looking for the key and pushed the car across the garage floor. I've seen THAT done... 😊 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kippermcflipper Posted July 15, 2019 Report Share Posted July 15, 2019 you could always tie a nice little bit of string to the spanner around your waist! No chance of forgetting then!!! 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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