Cavaciuti@aol.com Posted June 9, 2019 Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 Dear All, Can anyone recommend a Triumph specialist in Somerset or Devon? Got a 2.5ltr GT6 with a few clutch issues (... I've tried, & failed). Could also do with a proper tune-up as was running rough when I bought it (on twin Strombergs) & would love to get it going properly. Many Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 I know you said you have tried, but have you checked the flywheel? the 2.5 type are much thicker than vitesse/GT6, and will cause issues. You may be able the measure though the clutch fork access?? As to tune up, find a decent rolling road, with the 150 strombergs (really too small for a 2.5) it will need the needles re-profiling. Better solution is a pair of dolomite sprint carbs (short dashpot-that is VERY important unless you want to cut holes in your bonnet) and the sprint needles are a good starting place for a 2.5 (worked well on my 2.5 vitesse) But will need adaptor plates, or the carb mounting holes ovalling to fit, and a burr or similar in a drill to open up your manifold a little. That is really easy and about 10 mins work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Can you expand the clutch problems ...just what is wrong Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavaciuti@aol.com Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Pete, Thanks for the interest. When I bought car (Jan) it absolutely refused to go into 3rd gear going up box, but sporadically engaged 3rd going down the box. Stripped box completely then ran out of talent so Glocester Rd Gearboxes put it back together with new Synchros. Back in car, clutch refused to disengage fully (creeping forward with foot fully on clutch). Changed slave cylinder & seems improved, but now issue is that I can go up box & suddenly it won't go in to ANY gear. Have to bang it in to a gear, then will behave for a few minutes, then repeats issue again. So leaning more toward g/box related, but my experience too limited to know where to go with it next. Still, looks good with the GT6 bonnet back on the Spitfire bodywork!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Have you looked at the remote lever assembly on top? Might be worn bushes that cause intermittent problems depending on the position of the gearlever. The bit about the clutch is interesting and may be the cause of both creep and inability to select gears - it's not disengaging fully. Possibly it's got a completely incorrect clutch assembly fitted, but to find out you'll have to disassemble the entire unit; the release arm and bearing may also be wrong somehow. You've had the box out already; if it comes out again, post a few photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 I agree with Colin, check the remote lever for slack. Also did you get as far as taking the clutch off? A "close relative" recently put his back together with the clutch plate back to front, similar symptoms. It's easy to do, even though the plate does say "fly wheel side". Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavaciuti@aol.com Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Tend to agree with Colin - there's something not quite right about the whole mechanism which is causing it to not disengage properly. I did strip the remote lever though, and all seemed to go back fairly snugly. Also removed the clutch (nearly new, so went back on), & the "Flywheel This Side" stamp gave me a sleepless night when engine was out ... did I or didn't I ... so took bellhousing off next day just to check ... & yes, it was correct!!! 😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 1 minute ago, Cavaciuti@aol.com said: the "Flywheel This Side" stamp gave me a sleepless night when engine was out ... did I or didn't I ... so took bellhousing off next day just to check ... & yes, it was correct!!! 😀 You too? I thought it was only me that did things like that... Is there any wear in the pivot pin that the release arm moves on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavaciuti@aol.com Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Difficult to say - looked polished (as you'd expect), but no signs of visible wear. Was tempted to firmly tape a bolt to the lever arm where the pin sits (e.g. effectively extending the pin) to see if that helped, but not tried it yet. Anyway, spoke to specialist in Somerset this am, & he's looking at it next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 or wear in the pivot at the top of the clutch pedal where it attaches to the master cylinder. The hole can get elongated and the pin badly worn which means much reduced clutch pedal travel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 What gearbox is this 3 rail or has a big saloon box to go with the 2.5 ???? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavaciuti@aol.com Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 From serial number, it's a Dolomite g/box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Been there and got all the t shirts with this one,see other thread "Vitesse ongoing clutch trouble" Tell us what gearbox ,flywheel and slave cylinder you have and i might be able to help. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 If you want constructive help,i Im sorry you must be a bit more specific we dont have a crystal ball Whats the serial number or what dolomite was it a 1300 or a sprint..... both wildly different Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Serial number on gearbox? Presumably Dolly 1850 though totally and utterly untrustworthy now as most have been rebuilt and rebuilt again with whatever mix of parts was to hand. I am in Somerset between Taunton and Yeovil. Not a "professional" but have rebuilt a gearbox or two (even recently) so happy to consult, though have too many Triumph problems of my own to offer to get seriously stuck in. What specialist have you found in these parts? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavaciuti@aol.com Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 G/box serial nos. DG 1057 (see pic). Other pic is from before the Slave Cylinder was changed for a new one (although pin was retained), but shows g/box & bellhousing assy. Sorry for lack of info ... am new to classic cars. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavaciuti@aol.com Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Nick, Thanks for offer of advice - in Wellington myself. Just want to get this thing up in the Blackdown Hills for play - some lovely roads up there!!! It's going up to NE Motors in Shepton Mallet as also needs a good tuning. (Spamspeed in Glos also came highly recommended, but he seems to have retired 😥). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 The Prefix on the gearbox, DG, is for a three rail Toledo gearbox which is not suitable for a six cylinder engine. It maybe just the gearbox case has been used in a rebuild and the insides are the 2 Litre Gearbox? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 when bleeding push the piston down into the cyl. as far as it will go to reduce volume, even unbolt and hang so nipple is uppermost. and some other things that reduce clutch clearing are thin 15mm throw out bearing std is 19mm thick ,( messes up the angle of the lever ) worn pins on the throwout lever ( weld /rivet in new pins ) big dimples worn in the throwout carrier groove ( just reposition , the anti spin roll pin to a new location ) all these add up to lost movement and poor leverage . even a DG case with 2lr innards will struggle to survive the torque of a 2500 unit. so dont do anything spirited or you may have a expensive gnashing of teeth Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Do you know what flywheel is fitted ?.I`m guessing it must be the 2 litre one with the spigot machined in? From the angle of the arm in the picture i`d say it may have a bit of a mismatch with the bearing carrier. S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavaciuti@aol.com Posted June 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Have dug up these (not so great) pics - from memory, thickness of flywheel was approx. 1/2". Also included pic of Bearing Carrier so you can see what's inside ... Could it be the Release Carrier twisting on the shaft, hence not pressing on clutch housing fingers squarely??? Could explain sporadic nature of issue? I'm Clucking Flueless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Hard to say from those pics but i think the carrier looks like the short version intended for the Saloon. Can`t really comment on travel compared to mine as i have a big saloon box but, if it`s a saloon flywheel it should work,if it`s a Vitesse/GT6 flywheel it will give travel issues. Is that a rocker oil feed line i spy in the second Pic?. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavaciuti@aol.com Posted June 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 It is indeed. Came with the car, but read somewhere they're not a great idea ... taking oil away from the expensive-to-fix bearings to oil-feed the cheap bits. Left it on for the moment though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Yes spawn of satan if you leave it on It must be plugged in the banjo bolt and drilled with a less than 1mm hole to seriously restrict the flow to the rockers yes takes oil from then important bits Floods the rockers and promotes oil down the valve guides to help make smoke and coke the back of the valves All together.. not a good idea Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 9 hours ago, dave.vitesse said: DG, is for a three rail Toledo gearbox which is not suitable for a six cylinder engine. It maybe just the gearbox case has been used in a rebuild and the insides are the 2 Litre Gearbox? Yes, very likely and exactly the reason why I take no notice of the stamped numbers on anything! Even with the right bits in the standard internals are marginal for 2L never mind 2.5....... On 10/06/2019 at 21:22, Cavaciuti@aol.com said: Just want to get this thing up in the Blackdown Hills for play - some lovely roads up there!!! It's going up to NE Motors in Shepton Mallet as also needs a good tuning. Yes, some good roads on the Blackdowns. Neil does know his carbs so should sort your tuning issues. The pics aren't very clear but I'd say that you have the correct GT6/Vitesse flywheel. This is also likely as the saloon flywheels are so fat that they usually have clearance issues with the bell housing unless a Laycock clutch is used, and that isn't a Laycock clutch....... The release bearing and carrier certainly have considerable scope for error and mayhem but can't see clearly enough t make any useful comment. The random nature of your clutch/ gear selection makes me wonder about how freely the friction plate can slide on the gearbox splines which in turn can lead to wondering about how straight the backplate is and whether the locating dowels are in place? I also wonder whether your master cylinder might not be fully returning every time - it really doesn't take much lost motion to mess things up. Some prefer to use 7/8" slave cylinders which give a bit more travel at the cost of slightly increased pedal effort. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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