ASP123 Posted June 15, 2019 Report Share Posted June 15, 2019 Hi all, i seem to have a small oil leak from the fuel pump/block gasket. I’ve never removed/refitted a mechanical fuel pump before, anything I should watch for ? also is this just a gasket or does it required any form of sealant too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 15, 2019 Report Share Posted June 15, 2019 ASP, Easy job, just ensure the lever goes back on top of the cam. I would try it without sealant, a messy job if it has come to off again and you have to clean it up. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 15, 2019 Report Share Posted June 15, 2019 Hi, The fuel pump gasket is just like any other gasket. In theory you shouldn't need any sealant but a thin smear of Hylomar never goes amiss. Cleanliness is the key - make sure there's no residue of old gasket on either mating face when reassembling. Removal and refitting is fairly simple but the nuts are a little awkward to access. Sometimes you'll find one of them is a slot-head type because it's easier to use a screwdriver than a spanner - if so, remember which one it is (I think it's the rear) and refit in the same places. If you have the original solid metal pipe from the pump outlet round the front of the engine, it can be a little tricky to move this out of the way for taking the pump off. Be careful not to bend it as too much bending can cause cracks and then you've got another, more urgent job on your hands. Finally, the operating arm on the pump (which you'll see when you remove it) rests against the camshaft. It does NOT hook under it. If you try to hook it under then it won't all go back together properly. It's quite an easy job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 15, 2019 Report Share Posted June 15, 2019 You might find the fuel pump nuts need tightening to seal the leak , I sacrificed an old spanner to make a dedicated spanner. I shortened and narrowed the spanner. It’s the nut nearest the bulk head which is the more difficult to access Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ASP123 Posted June 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2019 Thanks all for the quick replies, much appreciated. Will take a look tomorrow ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 Is it fairly easy to fit the 'service kit' on these? As mentioned elsewhere I have a problem with petrol syphoning back to the tank and am thinking about getting a kit on my new spares order, as they have replacement non return valves. Don't want to get a modern new unit, but never messed with the pump before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekS Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 Before you disturb anything, have a look, on the Spitfire there's a small tell-tale hole on the underside of the pump, this could be the same. It's quite possible that oil is spreading from there. It's easy to check with a small mirror and torch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 BW, Yes the kit is easy to fit, but I still get drain back. It's better than before, a much slower decline, a couple of days and you don't notice. But a week and the filter is empty and I have to churn the engine a bit or use the primer lever. Maybe I didn't fit it too well! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 I think its asking a lot of the little fuel pump valves to seal perfectly especially when there's no pressure in the system so there will always be some run back. I fitted a new pump rather than overhaul the original and it works fine but I don't know how well the valves seal as I haven't got an extra filter installed... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekS Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 Sorry, misread the problem, I'm thinking it was an oil seepage... I'll get my coat. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 Johny, yes, I wonder if a one way valve would be beneficial? I haven't seen one on anybody else's car so probably some reason not to. Derek, You had me going there, I was half way to the garage to check. I've given advise about brake hydraulics when asked about clutch. Doesn't stop me! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said: BW, Yes the kit is easy to fit, but I still get drain back. It's better than before, a much slower decline, a couple of days and you don't notice. But a week and the filter is empty and I have to churn the engine a bit or use the primer lever. Maybe I didn't fit it too well! Doug Doug -I have a primer lever!! Where? Didn't know that. Is it on all models or just GT6s Johny - Just had a one way valve delivered and due to fit it. I will report back in due course. If it doesn't work I may resort to the service kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 BW, Rimmer Bros says you do! GT6s & Spitfires, lever on the left operated by the cam, lever on the right operated by hand. There are after market that don't have the hand primer. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 1 hour ago, derekskill said: Sorry, misread the problem, I'm thinking it was an oil seepage... I'll get my coat. Well, the original post was about oil seepage... 1 hour ago, Badwolf said: Doug -I have a primer lever!! Where? Didn't know that. Is it on all models or just GT6s The pumps that Triumph fitted in the 1960s all had a manual primer lever. They discontinued that some time in the '70s, so I don't think 1500 Spitfires have it, but my 1972 GT6 does, my old 1974 Toledo didn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 NM, The picture is from Rimmers catalogue and is identical for Spitfire 1/2/3/4/1500 and GT6. So, after market is now the one with the primer? My GT6 is a 73 and has the primer, BWs Spitfire mk4 is a 72, I think, interesting to see if he does have it. Doug Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said: BW, Rimmer Bros says you do! GT6s & Spitfires, lever on the left operated by the cam, lever on the right operated by hand. There are after market that don't have the hand primer. Doug Doug - Thank you, you strike again. I do indeed have a pump lever, and it works. My Spitfire is a 1972 MkIV, but is fitted with a Herald 13/60 engine, which I only discovered when recommissioning. Unfortunately, I have no idea how much of the original engine fittings were transferred with the replacement block so it's very much a guessing game when ordering spares etc. as you will have seen from my restoration thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ASP123 Posted June 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 Well I managed to get to one of the bolts and nipped that up and it seems to have made a small difference. See what you guys mean about the bulk head side bolt though. That’s quite awkward to get to ! may just get a new gasket anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 On 15/06/2019 at 22:15, Paul H said: You might find the fuel pump nuts need tightening to seal the leak , I sacrificed an old spanner to make a dedicated spanner. I shortened and narrowed the spanner. It’s the nut nearest the bulk head which is the more difficult to access Paul Here’s a pic of my modified fuel pump spanner . This allows the 1/2 inch nut nearest to the bulkhead to be accessed easily Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Car boot sales are a good source of tools you can modify without sacrificing your trusty spanners. A small drive 1/2" socket will also fit in the limited space around the fuel pump nuts. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRevver Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 I have a quick question about fuel pump gasket. I ordered the pump service kit from Rimmers (AEU2760). The gaskets supplied with the kit look slightly different to the one in the parts catalogue. The closest fit has a cross shaped cut out for the pump rocker arm, the original appears to have a pill-shaped oval cut out. Does it make a difference? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 No; they're probably made like that now so that you can trim the centre as required. It's the outer rim that makes the seal, so as long as that fits as it should, you're fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRevver Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 Thanks, appreciate it. Didn't want bits being chewed off the gasket by the rocker arm! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 ref fuel pump DIY spanner, I have an old box spanner I use its hex and thin walled fits snugly then I attach a normal socket to the free end and easily undone or tightened up. The box spanner doesn't have the bulk of a normal 1/2 in drive socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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