Colin Lindsay Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 That will always be a major problem on any older car. You buy parts from the catalogue only to find that a PO has replaced the parts with whatever came to hand, or was better, and you're left with the original part that cost a bomb and no-one else wants, as they've all done the same mod.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 from memory 16p is unf 16pb is metric well something like that quick test fit hand spin a unf bolt in the hose hole , pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 16P is correct for a 2L Vitesse. The type 12 was used on 1600, I think. Pete's probably right about the PB being metric, or at least, a metric one is definitely a PB, which isn't necessarily the same... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 As has already been stated, 16P calipers are imperial. 16PB come in both imperial and metric variants and there are some very subtle differences between them. As far as I can remember, 16P and imperial 16PB calipers are fully interchangeable. 16PB (imperial) calipers differ from 16PB (metric) calipers is three key areas: 1. the mounting holes are different sizes - the metric ones need to use a special shouldered bolt (158713) to attach them to the upright bracket 2. The threads for the brake pipe and bleed nipple are metric on the metric callipers and imperial on the imperial callipers. 3. The holes for the brake pad pins are a different diameter (I cant remember which are are bigger and which are smaller) More detail in this old thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 56 minutes ago, KevinR said: As has already been stated, 16P calipers are imperial. 16PB come in both imperial and metric variants and there are some very subtle differences between them. As far as I can remember, 16P and imperial 16PB calipers are fully interchangeable. 16PB (imperial) calipers differ from 16PB (metric) calipers is three key areas: 3. The holes for the brake pad pins are a different diameter (I cant remember which are are bigger and which are smaller) I can confirm the metric pads have the smaller pad pin hole. So the easily available pads sold for fords etc fit into the metric callipers but need the hole enlarging for use with imperial callipers. And there are many cars out there with incorrect mounting bolts (I have had a couple, well one had some correct and 1 incorrect) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted February 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 The brake system is all back together, the servo is installed, I filled the system with fluid yesterday and have been bleeding the brakes since, Im struggling to get a decent feel to the brake pedal. I dont seem to be able to get all the air out of the system. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 2, 2020 Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 You're not using silicone fluid, are you? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted February 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 No Dot4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 2, 2020 Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 There is no bleed nipple on the servo (why is that?!!) so you have to pump whatever air’s in it out the nearest brake cylinder, passenger side front. A lorra lorra pumping. Failing that you got to keep going round, not forgetting the furthest slave cylinder away is the driver’s side rear, passenger side rear, driver’s side and closest, passenger side. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted February 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 It’s improving but still not happy with it, I did wonder if the servo maybe the problem, just ordered some more fluid so more bleeding later in the week and hopefully that’ll cure it. Then I’m hoping for a test drive next weekend. Local club run end of February so I have a deadline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 2, 2020 Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 do the pads have nasty plastic squeal shims or nice stainless ones ??? re check end float on front hubs must have a minimum . theres also been a lot of talk on here about new calipers over returning piston/pads have you bedded the pads and linings ?? the servo should be angled so air is expelled as fluid fills its cylinder bleed with catch bottle higher than the bleed . bleed with pedal down fast , nip bleed and return slow make sure there is free play ( rattle fit ) on the M cyl pushrod with foot off pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted February 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 The shims are stainless steel. Pads were not replaced - they looked fairly new and I’m saving for mintex pads. Shoes were replaced as they were badly worn, but not bedded in yet. I haven’t checked the servo angle but I used the rear plate so I’m assuming that’s ok. Im tempted to put the wheels back on and drive the car up and down our street when it’s quiet and see how they feel in use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 a thought were the rear shoes fully locked up with the handbrake disconnected , then fit cable to just suit , then back off the adjuster or the handbrake cable can have tension holding the shoes open and the wheel cyls are always playing 'catch up' gives a long pedal pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: a thought were the rear shoes fully locked up with the handbrake disconnected , then fit cable to just suit , then back off the adjuster or the handbrake cable can have tension holding the shoes open and the wheel cyls are always playing 'catch up' gives a long pedal pete Sounds like an idea.. I can never get the handbrake cable exact; when the cable is tight enough, it won't reach the levers and when it does, it always seems to have too much travel. Never thought to do it fully tightened then slack off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 having the wheels hanging also adds cable slack/tensions , best done with upright on a jack to simulate running heights then dont forget the angle and hole positions of the compensator stuck up above the prop , all easy to get at with one arm Ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted February 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 Thanks Pete, I will recheck the handbrake, I want to grease the channels that the cable runs in anyway. I’ve got a few days before I can rebleed the brakes anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted February 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 Pete thanks for the suggestion, I removed the handbrake pins and reset the brakes, the brake pedal feels better, still getting some air out so room for improvement but feels better, I’ll refit the handbrake cable when the rain stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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