iana Posted December 25, 2019 Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 I'm on the final leg of re bushing the suspension, new shocks, new brake hoses etc and on the front Im not convinced its correct, the hose looks too short, the hoses are the same length as I have taken off but it doesnt look right. Can someone post a picture of the correct positioning of the hose / pipe and the hose bracket positions (Ive put it back where i removed them from) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 25, 2019 Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 cant help but GBH216 on rimmers says it is 50mm thats nonsense 2" !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted December 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 Pete it may be correct but to my mind it looks a little tight, Ill post a picture and see what the consensus is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted December 25, 2019 Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 Is the car on the ground or still jacked up. hoses get extended when jacked & look wrong! If you have to change the hoses think about the Stainless Steel braided type gee they made a great improvement on my daughters Spit 16 years ago, a real hard pedal all the way. I'm in Australia and interestingly the early S/S types with no plastic sleeve over the braiding or nylon sleeve/bush between the S/S braid and the compressed crimp on ends are illegal here, ADR here say because the S/S can fatigue and fray/break at the joint interface! BUT they were fitted new to European cars go figure! I've subsequently changed the Vitesse and Dolly to the later plastic sleeved S/S braided type must do the Spit! Similarly ADR's (Aust Design Rules) don't permit the use of copper pipes in the brake system as it can work harden and fail, I had brought a set of Automec made Cu ones which my friendly local brake supplier had to remake in steel bundy pipe, but the brass fittings were OK to use, he took the copper pipe in part exchange for use on caravans or boat trailers where I believe its OK, go figure! Public Servants & supposed Tech Experts! Peter T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 26, 2019 Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 The purpose of the stainless steel braid is to protect the rubber pipe from road debris, it isn't to hold the pipe in compression to aid pedal hardness. If this is happening the rubber is faulty. I would suggest the improvement in Peter's daughter's car was down to new rubber not braid. The upside of braided pipes is they protect from puncture/damage, the downside is you can't see what's happening to the rubber, which is why many go for plain rubber hose. You can't be too careful of the junk that's coming out of China! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 26, 2019 Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 15 hours ago, iana said: Pete it may be correct but to my mind it looks a little tight, Ill post a picture and see what the consensus is. Can you get any other angles of photo? It's only recently that I discovered (not having owned one!) that Vitesse and GT6 brakes and uprights are not the same layout or design, so I can't compare to any of my cars, but it's possible that something may stand out in a different angle of shot. Doug's correct about the stainless hoses, they are NOT fit and forget but merely keep the rubber compressed on the outside and you've no idea of what's happening on the inside. I changed a full set on the Gt6 recently after fifteen years on the car, it was an expense I could have done without but then so is a lack of brakes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted December 26, 2019 Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 The vertical links and brake hoses are the same on the GT6 and Vitesse. The good old parts bin! The braided type may reduce the flexibility. If the car is jacked up as in the attached picture then the horse will be expended passed it's normal position. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted December 26, 2019 Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 Doug the Goodridge S/S braided hoses I use have a ptfe inner pipe carrying the brake fluid with the woven S/S outer braiding then covered with a plastic?cover, mine is imitation carbon fibre finish They do keep a firm pedal under repeated use when driven hard! The pedal remains rock hard. The Dolly Sprint I have the rear pipe obviously shredded internally as it kept the brakes on and locked, that is when I replaced them with the S/S braided ptfe flexible pipes. It was interesting as the brakes locked on whilst turning on a country road don’t want to repeat that again. Peter T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted December 26, 2019 Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 Pictures from my 68 Vitesse Mk1 2L, length of hose between the two fixing brackets about 300mm. Seem to remember had to be careful so they did not rub on tyre on full lock, put a slight twist in hose before tightening locking nuts. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted December 26, 2019 Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 Here’s the setup on my mk2 vitesse Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 26, 2019 Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 There seems quite a difference in length between those stainless hoses of Paul's and the rubber ones of Paul H. I've managed to measure mine on the GT6 MK1, not very easy to do one-handed, and the fronts (Stainless Goodrich) are closer to 240mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted December 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 Thanks all, the set up on my vitesse is the same as Paul H's, it looked wrong to me when I initially reassembled it (and I wondered if something wasnt quite in the right place) I have checked the new hose against the old one and its identical in length, its 300mm long end to end. In the parts manual I have downloaded it refers to a brake hose reference 132958, (not sure if this is correct) but most traders list a GBH??? which seems to vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 26, 2019 Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 From my own cars 143320 is the GT6 front hose; 122767 is the early Herald, yet almost all suppliers list the GBH216 as the one-size-fits-all equivalent. There is one on-line supplier selling a pair of 38cm Borg and Beck hoses which would seem excessively long. GBH203 are available at 30cm if you want a little piece of mind re stressing the shorter hoses - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-GT6-VITESSE-GOODRIDGE-STAINLESS-STEEL-FRONT-OR-REAR-BRAKE-HOSE-GBH203/372519487628?fits=Car+Make%3ATriumph&epid=1272411255&hash=item56bbe4488c:g:rJMAAOSwU9xURnnT I've found a contemporary box showing other vehicle applications for the same hose; it may help others when searching for a set. There just might be an Otosan Anadol owner out there with an unwanted pair... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 and colin did that ONE handed happy new year Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: and colin did that ONE handed happy new year Pete I've gone from 60 words a minute to 60 minutes a word, but hey ho, I can't really do anything else at present so might as well labour on. (I started this post on Christmas Eve so have a good day tomorrow.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 Hi. I know this is about hoses poss, being a bit short, though if they do appear a bit long (like mine may be) and are contacting tyre a bit, like mine were (also have wider tyres than I would prefer) on some lock, then I did sort this by bending/moving the brackets on the fastening a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted January 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2020 The car is virtually back together, I just need to replace a couple of brake pipes, is it worth buying something like this (or better to find a local supplier to make the replacement pipes up?) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPERIAL-PIPE-FLARING-KIT-BRAKE-FUEL-REPAIR-TOOL-SET-25FT-COPPER-BRAKE-PIPE/362535046640?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40732%26meid%3D92b25e40c8574affb0d2c4625e8e37ff%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D254467414442%26itm%3D362535046640%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A6cb7ff79-34a4-11ea-920e-74dbd18046cb|parentrq%3A95f9422816f0aa48f85dd2fdff9df7f3|iid%3A1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 11, 2020 Report Share Posted January 11, 2020 Ideally you should be using Kunifer pipe which is more robust and vibration proof. Obtain that and give to a garage to make the pipe. I have found the company you have flagged, adequate at best - just my observation and experience. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 The club shop sell Automec pipe kits and bending and flaring tools. Don't know Automec's reputation, but it is reassuringly expensive! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted January 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 Doug thanks, I’ve had a quick look and at that cost I’ll try and find someone local to make the pipes up I need, the flaring tool does look a lot more robust than the one on the eBay link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 21 minutes ago, iana said: Doug thanks, I’ve had a quick look and at that cost I’ll try and find someone local to make the pipes up I need, the flaring tool does look a lot more robust than the one on the eBay link. I purchased a similar kit from EBay and made replacements for both front brakes and slave cylinder . 3 years on with no issues. I did buy a cheap pipe bender at the same time which was a waste of space . I’m sure Kunifer is better but I’ve got no complaints Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 14 hours ago, iana said: The car is virtually back together, I just need to replace a couple of brake pipes, is it worth buying something like this (or better to find a local supplier to make the replacement pipes up?) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPERIAL-PIPE-FLARING-KIT-BRAKE-FUEL-REPAIR-TOOL-SET-25FT-COPPER-BRAKE-PIPE/362535046640?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40732%26meid%3D92b25e40c8574affb0d2c4625e8e37ff%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D254467414442%26itm%3D362535046640%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A6cb7ff79-34a4-11ea-920e-74dbd18046cb|parentrq%3A95f9422816f0aa48f85dd2fdff9df7f3|iid%3A1 Remember those are metric ends, so you may have to source Imperial versions. I bought 25 feet of Kunifer pipe recently for £14, more than enough for a car. (I see the price has gone up in this relisted product!) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-16-25-FT-LONG-CUPRO-NICKEL-KUNIFER-BRAKE-FUEL-PIPE-ROLL-25FT-BS-EN12449/271597859816?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 If you're only doing one car or just a couple of pipes it's probably most cost-effective to get someone to do it all for you or buy a ready-made pipe; if you want to try it yourself you'll need pipe, bending and flaring tools. Brake pipe benders are quite a variation; I bought the small club-supplied version but find it fiddly and sometimes prone to kink pipes, however the larger type I also use (£13 - 15) does not provide tight bends, plus you need to think ahead as to where you want the actual bend to be - bend at that spot and the large radius actually means the bend will be an inch away from where you require it, so it takes a little bit of practice to have the pipe at the right spot so that you know the bend will end up exactly where you need it. Flaring tools also vary; I used to use the hand-held version (£36 approx) however at a show a few years back I bought one of the professional vice-mounted flaring tools and it's a real doddle. Perfect flares every time, as Uncle Ben would say, cost me £40 second-hand, but it has really paid for itself ever since. Tot the price up - pipes, flaring and bending tools work out at about £65, less if you go for the cheaper items, and with a little bit of practice you've acquired a skill. With copper-only kits around £70 on eBay and over £80 from suppliers doing it yourself might not be much greater expense, plus you've always got the tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 having a simple flaring tool kit and some pipe is always a useful to have handy, odd it says 'imperial' when its only the 3/16" tube but 10mm metric fittings youre's will definitely have unf threads no metric when it was built unless someone has fitted type 16 metric calipers to replace the type 12s !!! like i fitted on mine Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: youre's will definitely have unf threads no metric when it was built unless someone has fitted type 16 metric calipers to replace the type 12s !!! like i fitted on mine Pete That's why I was being cagey and not committing myself that Imperial UNF fittings were definitely required! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted January 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 the calipers are stamped 16P, but I had to check as the car was rebuilt in the 90s and Ive found a few things that arent right on a Mk1, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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