Doctor slow Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 I am a brand new owner of a "fully restored" (ha) MK3 GT6. After eventually sorting out my fuel problems, i've moved on to other issues, of which there are many. For now, I have a hazard switch which doesn't do anything, and i have found a relay with only one lead attached. If I attach the other lead, the flashers come on regardless of the switch position, and the ignition light also comes on, with no ignition key! It has a new loom, with completely non-standard colour wires. Am I missing something simple, or do I have to start from scratch. Oh, and I'll be back with more questions, I'm sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rijidij Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 If you don't already have one, I would thoroughly recommend fitting one of these (a Dis-Car-Nect). Only a few quid, and could save your car (don't ask me how I know this). All of the GT6 wiring goes through just 3 fuses! In an emergency you don't want to be running around trying to find the right sized spanner to disconnect the battery... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 Welcome to the forum Doctor. The usual problem with the hazard warning switch is that, as it's used so infrequently and the switch is so old, it needs a bit of jer.. jer.... jiggling to wake it up. A gentle pushing, pulling and twisting to clear the tarnish off since the last MOT. However, it sounds like yours may have some problems cunningly hidden by the previous owner for you to discover. In the case of that relay, it seems as if that DPO (Damn Previous Owner) had a bright idea to use a relay, and when it didn't work they just disconnected the wire. I'm sorry to say that in cases like this you may be reduced to arming yourself with the correct circuit diagram and doing a point-to-point check. That is, identifying each wire, end to end to make sure it goes to the right things and nowhere else, and marking off the diagram as you do each one. Not a lot of fun, especially in the camped footwell of a GT6. (At least with a Spitfire you can have your feet out over the boot lid!) But even worse for you as your loom does not have standard colours. I don't envy you! Cheers, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 Dr S, Here is a wiring diagram, not so useful if your colours don't match However the colours do make the diagram easier to follow. You will notice the hazard flasher switch, bottom right, has a lot of connections and I would guess your problem is a wrongly connected wire on the back of the switch. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 5 minutes ago, rlubikey said: . Not a lot of fun, especially in the camped footwell Richard, Your footwell may be camp, but not mine. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 Oooooh Matron! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulfc Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 Hi DS, I had similar issues when I bought my GT6 and found that just about every “additional” and “non standard” wire that had been introduced by POs had been done to save them the effort/time of finding and resolving correctly whatever particular problem they faced. Eventually I established the car did have a full loom 98% of which was fine. I know you say it has a non standard loom but I would encourage you to check things further as it would be a hell of a job for a PO to install a non standard one. Also, consider taking the seats out as it makes getting into those awkward but sometimes necessary contorted positions a lot easier. Buy a head lamp so you can have two hands free to work with and, when you do decide to venture into some unorthodox body position ask your wife/husband/partner/other responsible adult to check on you every 30 minutes just in case you get stuck ( as a friend of mine did)! Good luck and let’s know how you get on. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 Hello, For those who do not have HZL on their vehicle and would like to, BUT are not sold on the common all-in-one unit which has been the subject of good and bad press on this Forum; the following attached wiring diagram is a useful aid and works very well. Certainly not expensive and straight forward to install. Acknowledgement to Holden Vintage & Classic................... do not use them to buy the parts, they are stupidly expensive, but they do provide excellent and numerous wiring diagrams. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted January 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 Well I'd like to thank you all for your replies. According to the diagram above, the hazard "relay" has three connectors, whereas my "flasher unit" has only two as in the full GT6 wiring diagram. I'm wondering if it may be simply that the wires were connected the wrong way round. Today, when my body temperature rises above freezing, i will investigate further. i have yet to remove the hazard switch and look at the wiring there. Not overly worried about this since i will never be in a position to use it - after all, it's not as if the car will beak down or anything, is it?! Can't use the car anyway, since the heater seems to have a blockage, and doesn't work, and my glamorous assistant (AKA wife) refuses to go in it without some heat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 Yeh, the standard GT6 hazard switch has six connections, they seem to have used it as a handy termination point. The hazard relay and the flasher relay are both attached to it along with the voltage stabiliser and a couple of lights. db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted January 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 Yup - wires (or at least the one that was connected) the wrong way round. Pproblem solved. Incidentally, I would hesitate to call the previous owner a DPO, since he did a really superb job on most things (or at least he paid someone else to!) The biggest problem I think is that it was a hardly ever driven. It's only done a genuine 24 K miles. That is not necessarily a good thing, of course, since it means that it spent most of the last 47 yers standing around. OK, moving on: Who's stupid idea was it to put the steering lock/ignition switch down by your ankles? I really will have to remove that nd put an ignition switch on the dash - anyone done that? I have a feeling (literally - down on my knees with a head torch feeling my way round) but it may be a desperate hope, that the steering lock may have been removed and put back with "normal" bolts at some time. And while we're at it, is it possible to adjust the position of the steering wheel up and down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 The Holden wiring diagram is not the way Triumph did it, and was not considered acceptable for production use. Partly, this is because turning the indicator on while the hazards are operational would apply intermittent voltage to the ignition circuit. Ouch! The correct circuit uses a very special switch, which explicitly disconnects the indicator stalk (and hence the ignition circuit) from the bulbs when they are connected to the hazard flasher. Also, the Holden diagram marks two 3-pin "relay" parts, neither of which are relays but rather flasher units. Some older flasher units had a third connection for the repeater, as they show, but Mk3 GT6 ones don't. As to the location of the ignition switch... they did that to get a steering lock onto a column that wasn't designed for one. Earlier cars had the switch on the dash (but no steering lock). You get used to the switch by your shins but it really helps if you have inertia seat belts so you can reach down without having to remove the belt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted January 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 Okay, so now I'm confused. I have used the full wiring diagram, same as the one above, not the holden one. The "flasher unit" is the one right at the bottom with purple wire going to th "B" terminal and "LG/K" wire to the "L" terminal. are you saying that is OK, or is this the one that will cause problems if I turn the indicator on????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 I think the Holden diagram has caused mass confusion and panic. I think you're OK, turn the indicators on and see what happens! NM is right about the seat belts, stalling in traffic with statics used to be interesting. But not a problem with inertia reels. Never had a problem with the ignition switch location and shins. The seat adjustment, backwards/forwards and tilt is all you've got to adjust to the steering column. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 The rationale for flagging the Holden alternative is for those cars which DO NOT have any type of HZL in their vehicle. If your car has a factory fitted HZL and it's not working then that is the system to fix and not replace - which was never the intended suggestion. Taking Holden's stance and attention to detail, the company must be happy to promote the alternative - I doubt they would suggest or condone anything that could be a safety issue. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted January 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 Thanks again for all the help. Although its not really the right forum for steering wheel adjustment, to save me restarting on another forum, perhaps the grown-ups here can help. Reading the not very good workshop manual that came with the car, if the steering column is removed and then refitted, it says before tightening the holding bolts, adjust the up/down position, do not fit with the steering wheel in the fully down position. Is that rubbish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 30 minutes ago, Doctor slow said: Although its not really the right forum for steering wheel adjustment, to save me restarting on another forum I think you mean thread, but I know what you mean 😉 !! It is always worth starting a new thread if the topic differs significantly from the original - couple of reasons: 1- it is easier for users to conduct a historical search, if the title has one or some key words. 2- it gives some users another topic to hijack, of which I hasten to add are usually interesting in their own right. Needless to say both points are as important as each other 😁 !!!!! Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 5 hours ago, Doctor slow said: Thanks again for all the help. Although its not really the right forum for steering wheel adjustment, to save me restarting on another forum, perhaps the grown-ups here can help. Reading the not very good workshop manual that came with the car, if the steering column is removed and then refitted, it says before tightening the holding bolts, adjust the up/down position, do not fit with the steering wheel in the fully down position. Is that rubbish? If you loosen the clamp on the steering rod (from the steering wheel, next to the top of the clutch pedal) plus loosen the front and rear column bolts the whole column and steering wheel can be adjusted forward and back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 20, 2020 Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 20 hours ago, Doctor slow said: Do not fit with the steering wheel in the fully down position. Is that rubbish? I'm wondering if this is anything to do with the steering column being designed to collapse in the event of an accident; I'm assuming it's designed to telescope in the event of a front-end impact, where to avoid the entire column being driven forward and striking the driver it collapses inwards; however is this anything to do with the driver striking the steering wheel (pre-seatbelt days!) and if the wheel has room to move away from the driver it may lessen the impact? Thinking out loud again, but just wondering why they would say that in the manual. (Incidentally my own WSM may just have cleared that up as it says " the column may be unable to telescope if fitted to it's lowest position".) So, I may be right after all. It needs to telescope top and bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 20, 2020 Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 Yes, Colin, I believe that is precisely the reasoning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted January 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 Yes, that's what my manual says as well, but someone else posted that there was no adjustment on the steering wheel position, which made me doubt it. That was the reason I posted it. Anyway, thanks for the help, and being suitably reprimanded I'll post on the correct forum....sorry, thread, next time!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 19 hours ago, Doctor slow said: Anyway, thanks for the help, and being suitably reprimanded You, as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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