Door anti burst catch

[Tom]

Hello, my Herald 1200 convertible is missing the 'male' part of the anti burst catch on the passenger side, the door appears to be a replacement as it has a different colour paint under the top coat. I'm assuming the door is from a Saloon as there are no holes for the catch on the door.

My question is can the catch be retro fitted to saloon doors and if so does anyone know where one can be found?

thanks, Tom. 

[johny]

Yes I believe it can be fitted and they do come up on eBay from time to time but as they are not available new sell at a bit of a premium.

[Colin Lindsay]

Hard to find when you want one; roughly the same type of fitting is also used on the TR7 with a slightly different reinforcing plate inside the door.

Keep an eye out on eBay and the like. The 'hook' is the important part, you can always make a reinforcing plate.

The photo is the TR7 on the left, and the Herald on the right with the two reinforcing plates above.

 

 

 

[Pete Lewis]

i make the hook the same part numbers but the staple is different  between 7 and H/V

Pete

[Steve P]

Here`s one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-vitesse-and-herald-anti-burst-catch/274362988342?hash=item3fe14ef736:g:mqAAAOSwB-heuYyN

[Tom]

Cheers Chaps,

I've contacted the seller and bought One of the hooks and the plate. Can't believe my luck they seem as rare as hens teeth!

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

i make the hook the same part numbers but the staple is different  between 7 and H/V

Pete

Yes, I mentioned that they were roughly the same but you can see the heavier build of the TR7 version; it's broader, but still fits into the Herald b-post catch. Had to run out and check...

[ahebron]

Remember to drink tea whilst fitting the parts, it does help.

 

[Bert]

Hello, my Herald 13/60 does not have any anti burst catch installed. I found some finally but now struggle how and where exactly to install them. Does anybody has some detail for me or a picture perhaps? Many thanks in advance! Bert

[Colin Lindsay]

Does your b-post have two dimples, like in the photo of my Estate? All my saloon tubs have them, the convertibles are already drilled.

On the door, there's a large inward section on the closing panel:

In my photo of the catches above, the larger cadmium / gold coloured one top right fits in behind this, it makes sense when you line them up inside the door skin.

 

 

[Pete Lewis]

and to add it is most important the  sprung slide wedge(shown in colins top pic)    is free and moves easy and the spring returns it  this stops the door lifting and allowing the cam from  riding over the striker or the doors will open on cornering you can get the striker and wedge but the spring is unobtainable and if failed needs a bit of DIY to replace it 

Pete

[Colin]

Chaps:- can I slightly alter the convo, whilst still alluding to door catches?

Can't recall if I saw the query somewhere in the Forum or on FBook; my driver door catch is shown in the photo. Someone said the 'horn' (bottom right) is sprung loaded and should move freely. 

Why (e.g. what does it do?), and, what if it doesn't? 

(Some will recall my on-going, continuous issues with doors not shutting nicely)

Thanks in advance . . . 😉

Best, C.

[68vitesse]

As Pete Lewis post above.

Regards

Paul.

[Colin Lindsay]

DON'T REMOVE IT!! Seriously, free it up by sliding back and forth with copious quantities of WD40 or any suitable lubricant, but don't pull it all the way out. This will stretch the spring and it will never seat properly again. You can unhook the spring, but it's a faff to get it reconnected again. 

[Colin]

OK chaps! Thanks. Well, certainly mine seems solid, in the position as shown. 

I didn't understand Peye's description of its operation - I'd have to have door appatatus and the catch off the car and offer them up together as if in ooeratiin (off car in other words!). If remove the body catch, will I lose the blind captive plate behind (always a worry with me - same with the forward door hinges; I'm always tempted to try & remove whatever, but leaving a nut or screw in place in one of the receiving threads . . . )

And yes, I have had the door fling itself open. Quite scary . .   

Thanks again, 

[Colin]

Thanks for the advice, Colin. It's just supposed to slide horizontally in & out? 

Will it help to ease the catch a little bit loose?? 

Cheers,

C.

[Colin]

Sorry bout typos. Typing too quickly & fat fingers. 

Extra Q:- is what you can see in my picture the thing 'in', or 'out'?? 

[Pete Lewis]

when you open the door the wedge is sprung to slide outwards  when you close the door the plate on the door pushes the wedge inwards

and this takes up any clearance between the two parts of the latch, stops any door lifting 

its a small bit that does an awful lot .

Pete

[Colin]

Thanks, Pete. I understand that description better.

Now to ease it all off.

Thanks a lot, Chaps.

Best,

Colin.

PS still seeking someone with working expertise to work on chassis, body-on. Still no luck here in South East . . .

[Colin]

My synopsis:- so, that little part is nothing more than an up-down wedge, in effect? Just thinking of the door catch profile, too . . 

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, Colin said:

If remove the body catch, will I lose the blind captive plate behind

No, it's caged so can't go to far.

Here's one that I repaired to destruction a few years back; as Gandalf said: "he who breaks a thing to find out what it is has left the path of wisdom". I think even Google Maps couldn't get me back by now. You need to unhook the spring before sliding it out, if you can, and on replacement you need to feed the spring along the inside, and hook it on at the end of the wedge again. The spring on this one was too stretched to have any useful tension afterwards.

 

 

 

[68vitesse]

Hook the spring on the main body of the catch then pass a piece of doubled button thread through the wedge, hook it on the spring then slide the wedge along the spring and thread to hook it on the wedge.

Regards

Paul.

[Colin]

Hey chaps - Colin, Paul et al; brilliant, thanks. Colin, that photo tellsme pretty much exactly what it's all about now. And I know exactly what you mean about dismantling to gain understanding! So conventional wisdom is currently saying don't remove the catch - guessing that's the point at which you can lose the spring's connected integrity - so I think my first gambit will be loosening it off in situ..

Many thanks for all your collective assistance (especially the visual, Colin). 

Best, C.

[Colin]

And it's basically a wedge, then . . . 

[Pete Lewis]

like anything on a car old or new   a oil can on anything that moves works wonders 

very few bother to lube all the small parts and wonder why they fail       come on its easy 

get a pump can  and squirt every thing that moves every few months  . only takes 5 minutes 

Pete