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Vitesse alternator bracket (block)


SixasStandard
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Hello All,

As mentioned in a previous posting I'm planning to do a dynamo to alternator conversion on my '68 Vitesse 2 litre Mk1. I've been looking for a block mounting bracket, which I believe is common with the iron block Spitfire engines and Triumph 2000 saloon., but so far no luck. You can pick them up for silly money from Rimmers and the like, but 35+ quid is way over the top in my opinion. Does anyone have a bracket spare that they're willing to sell for reasonable money?

Thanks,

Ian 

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why cant you just modify the dynamo bracket to suit the lug spaces of the alternator and add/remove any pulley offset to the front mount ???

yes will like;y need a revised adjustment strap as the unit diameter is bigger , but if i can do it you can too 

Pete

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

why cant you just modify the dynamo bracket to suit the lug spaces of the alternator and add/remove any pulley offset to the front mount ???

yes will like;y need a revised adjustment strap as the unit diameter is bigger , but if i can do it you can too 

Pete

You're quite right Pete........I had a 'lazy bugger' moment there!! Now that you've administered the required kick up the backside I've spent some time in the shed with the dynamo, mounting bracket and replacement alternator and actually thought about it (had to sit down at one point as the brain started up from cold).

I drew some datum lines on the workbench with pencil and then assembled the dynamo on the mounting bracket and lined it up with the datums, measuring the offset. Using the same dynamo front spacer to attach the alternator and then lining up with the same datums gave me the difference. Basically the alternator pulley sticks out 11mm further forward than the dynamo one. So, the plan is now to get a friend with a lathe to take off 12mm from the front of the spacer, which still leaves enough of the 5/16 UNF internal thread to lock the bolt and a washer down. Same friend will also be 'persuaded' to make the rear spacer, 25mm diameter bar with a 13mm diameter x 2mm step down at one end, 18mm overall length, drilled through with an 8mm thread clearance hole for a 75mm long M8 bolt. As for the adjuster bracket........I'm thinking of using a stainless steel rigging screw......... 

8mm Stainless Steel Rigging Screw Jaw/Jaw - GS Products

This isn't my idea.......I found it on another Triumph owners web site, but it seems like a good idea. You just need to remove one side of one of the 'forks' with an angle grinder to allow it to be mounted at the block end. It should allow more adjustment in order to get a better tension on the fan belt, or even allow a greater selection of fan belts to be used.

So that's the current plan.

Ian     

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2 hours ago, NonMember said:

I may have one lying around. I'll have a look (but it may be lurking somewhere I won't think to look in for a while!)

Thanks mate, but I've had the 'riot act' read to me.........so I'll be using the existing dynamo bracket with adjustments to the spacers. I appreciate your response though........cheers.

Ian   

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with the 3 lug alternator i would feel happier witha solid strap to aid some support, rogers is a tad different with a solid base lug 

on the A127 type the bush in the rear lug must be allowed to shift as the case expands a lot with heat generated and making it solid will very soon crack the rear lug completely OFF.

 so distance it to  have the lug central about the bush     or  Riot squad rules apply    Ha !

you guessed i hate utopia and myths 

like the idea of riot act rules  ha!

keep it simple and cheap   more fun more money for petrol  

pete

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello All,

Just to update on my progress with the conversion from dynamo to alternator.........I have now had the front spacer shortened to give the correct pulley offset, and fitted a rear stainless steel spacer after first shaving off a few mm from the rear lug bush to ensure that the rear bolt can be locked with a pair of hex half nuts whilst leaving the rear lug with about 0.5mm float. The adjuster bracket I've managed to adapt from the original that was fitted for the dynamo, by adding an extra 10mm rear step back, and then cutting the slotted section off and rewelding it back at an angle after first removing some material ......... look at the before and after pictures to explain better. I found that reversing the adjuster bolt and screwing it in from the year avoided any fouling of the bracket with the alternator pulley vanes. It was a bit of a faff to be honest, but works well and allows enough adjustment to fit a range of fan belts.

DSC06494.JPG

DSC06515.JPG

DSC06516.JPG

DSC06523.JPG

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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

would a straight strap have aligned if you fitted it to the front of the lug  ????

Hello Pete,

The existing dynamo bracket already had a 10mm step in it, but mounting from the front would have fouled the pulley vanes, so an extra 10mm step was needed to align with the rear face of the top lug.

Ian 

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3 hours ago, JohnD said:

Talk about complicating it!

But if you really want to, all you need is a length of tube, a large nut, two spherical joints (one left handed) and of course a left-handed tap.

And you can make this:

580961959_IMG_20200606_1856301.thumb.jpg.9430f6a224842d05e9066d3e870173b7.jpg

Simples!

If I'd have had a length of tube, a large nut, two spherical joints (one left handed), and a left handed tap I might have gone that route........but I don't.......so I didn't. What's so complicated about modifying the existing dynamo bracket with a couple of bends, a saw cut and a bit of welding???........it wasn't complicated for me.  

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Joke, Six!   I should have added welding the nut on, grinding the weld back and fairing it!   I didn't have to pop the alternator fan on the lathe to cut the blades back, cos I didn't have to, even to clear a spherical.    Must be different alt!I

I would have done though.   A straight strut beats a bent every time!

 

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alternative o the center welded nut two holes drilled right thro at right angles that a small length of bar could be temp pushed in to turn to adjust the length, similar to that provided on some fence tensioners..say 1/2in apart to each other

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10 hours ago, JohnD said:

 A straight strut beats a bent every time!

 

Yes, you're quite right. In this case the level of stress being applied to the bracket should be minimal though, basically just overcoming the tension of the fan belt, so I reckon the mild cranking of the bracket should be ok. To be honest there are better ways of doing the job rather than the approach I took, but with limited materials available to me I just used what I had in the shed. The picture below shows the issue I had with the pulley vanes, necessitating the extra back step to line up with the rear face of the top lug. With the alternator oriented more vertically I could have used a straight strut, but with a lot less available adjustment.   

I was a bit tetchy yesterday........hopefully no-one noticed.

Ian

DSC06525.JPG

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29 minutes ago, SixasStandard said:

I was a bit tetchy yesterday........hopefully no-one noticed.

Ian

 

Never noticed, I was too busy being impressed at the adapted bracket...

9 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

alternative o the center welded nut two holes drilled right thro at right angles that a small length of bar could be temp pushed in to turn to adjust the length, similar to that provided on some fence tensioners..say 1/2in apart to each other

Same as I have; you'll pay nearly £30 for these as 'alternator brackets' and about a fiver as 'wire fence tensioners'... just tighten by putting a thing screwdriver into the centre hole, then tighten the two end nuts. Last time I was at Beaulieu their entire driveway was fenced with hundreds of them... but - honest - they're all still there... 

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39 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Never noticed, I was too busy being impressed at the adapted bracket...

Same as I have; you'll pay nearly £30 for these as 'alternator brackets' and about a fiver as 'wire fence tensioners'... just tighten by putting a thing screwdriver into the centre hole, then tighten the two end nuts. Last time I was at Beaulieu their entire driveway was fenced with hundreds of them... but - honest - they're all still there... 

I just used a piece of stainless flat bar I had, left over from making replacement bonnet stays, if you want to pay a lot of money for the screw adjuster try a yacht chandlers.

Regards

Paul

 

IMG_20200607_103427.jpg

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Where do you get these fence tensioners that people speak of?

On eBay, they all look like this

TURNBUCKLE-STRAINER-FENCE-WIRE-TENSIONER-EYE-EYE-BZP-6MM-21E1

Which would be fine as a  tensioner but I wouldn't trust it as a strut.

No lock nuts, either.

A rigging turnbuckle might be better:

Turnbuckle-Straining-Screw-6mm-Jaw-Jaw-Galv-Rigging-Rope-Tensioner

which I think is what Colin has used.

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1 hour ago, 68vitesse said:

I just used a piece of stainless flat bar I had, left over from making replacement bonnet stays, if you want to pay a lot of money for the screw adjuster try a yacht chandlers.

Regards

Paul

 

IMG_20200607_103427.jpg

That's a very nice job Paul........and as per Colin's comment I'll be copying your cable clip........a nice neat solution.

Ian

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That’s what I used. S/S turnbuckle I shortened a little by cutting a short length off each end whilst keeping enough thread I also cut one of the U wings at each end so the bolt at each end only had to go thro one leaf of the bracket will provide a photo tomorrow

Peter T

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