badgerspitfire Posted May 26, 2020 Report Share Posted May 26, 2020 Part of my many jobs this week on my Spitfire 1500 is replacing the track rod ends (both rubber boots split). Is it possible to do this, with careful measurement to a point on the arm, and avoid having to get it re-tracked afterwards, or is it not really successful. It's my first foray into track rod end replacement. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 26, 2020 Report Share Posted May 26, 2020 i dont advise that have a look at toe in the simle way on here , was it right in the first place 150lb on each seat two sticks and a tape measure ...will need an assistant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 26, 2020 Report Share Posted May 26, 2020 1 hour ago, badgerspitfire said: Part of my many jobs this week on my Spitfire 1500 is replacing the track rod ends (both rubber boots split). Is it possible to do this, with careful measurement to a point on the arm, and avoid having to get it re-tracked afterwards, or is it not really successful. It's my first foray into track rod end replacement. Thanks You can certainly do it for a rough starting point when reassembling; mark the steering arm then count how many turns it takes to remove the track rod end; the theory is that the same number of turns of the replacement part will take you back to the same point. From there you can fine tune as necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badgerspitfire Posted May 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2020 Many thanks to both for your advice. Will post a pic when the Spitfire is up and running again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badgerspitfire Posted May 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2020 Ok, trying to get the track rod ends off. The nut comes off easily enough, and I've undone the locking nut on the steering side, but the track rod doesn't appear willing to come out of the housing. I've hit it a few times with a hammer but no luck. Grateful for any suggestions? Heat, or try to "jack" under the nut to push it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 27, 2020 Report Share Posted May 27, 2020 Are you talking about the taper pin (ball joint to suspension arm, well known awkward bugger) or the track rod (from rack to ball joint)? If the former, you need a ball joint splitter. Several types available. If the latter, it "just" unscrews. Use plenty of PlusGas or similar and keep turning the housing, there's a LOT of thread in there. You may need to use grips on the track rod to hold it still - it does have a couple of flats but I've never found a spanner that fitted well enough to work. Edit: The ball joint splitter I favour is this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badgerspitfire Posted May 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2020 It's the bit right at the end of the track rod (steering arm to wheels, the one you adjust for tracking I think, right at the end where it connects just behind disc back plate). I undid the bolt (underneath), but then it wouldn't knock out of the housing (needs to knock out vertically upwards). I think I am going to invest in the ball joint splitter you recommend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 27, 2020 Report Share Posted May 27, 2020 The pin from the ball joint on the track rod is tapered and fits in a tapered hole in the steering arm. As said above, it will need a ball joint splitter to remove it. They often come apart with quite a bang if they're tight and haven't moved in a few decades! Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 27, 2020 Report Share Posted May 27, 2020 often a good solid whack with a 2lb hammer will jump the taper out but it needs to get the steering arm in a position so when you really whack the end of the arm (not the ball) that its more solid and no bounce occurs this gives the greatest reaction , ie so you get a crack not a bong Pete , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badgerspitfire Posted May 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2020 Finally got it done. The first came off ok'ish. The second was stubborn and a marathon into near darkness tonight. Lots of tapping, heat, more hitting, and then in near desperation used another jack to put pressure on the bottom of the bolt while I tapped (and hit) around the outside of the housing. Then it finally gave in and popped out. Definitely using a splitter next time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 not tapping a right good whack on the hole it would have popped off., i do mean really give it a hard smack not with a toffee hammer you cant damage anything nothing wrong with a splitter , the hammer has worked for me for 50 years theres no point tickling a elephants back side with a feather . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badgerspitfire Posted May 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: tickling a elephants back side with a feather . that really cheered me up this morning! Yep, I had to give it a bit of a whack to persuade it to budge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 great .......... so tap was whack do recheck the track its easy , the new joints may not be the exact same dimensions as those removed but do get rent crowd to load the seats or you will not have it static this means errors when on the road . something most tyre places will not appreciate . also very important when checking the rears Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: no point tickling a elephants back side with a feather . Got a few pics on the “other” site, no elephants though db 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 2 hours ago, badgerspitfire said: that really cheered me up this morning! Yep, I had to give it a bit of a whack to persuade it to budge! I hope you undid the locknut first? PItA doing it after. Put the taper back in hole with the nut loose if you haven't. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badgerspitfire Posted May 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 Yep. Safely all done thank goodness. Now just struggling with rear brakes (new thread!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 Well done. I like that type of splitter, and found that if some tension is applied by the bolt, and then a whack on the side, has always worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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