Adrian Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 Hi Chaps Following on from my fuel has lost its oomph the issue hasen't been resolved as the garage has said there is some wear in the components and a call to Zenith diagnosed the fact that tuning couldn't lean the mixture enough concluded that a rebuild was needed. So where do we go from here, kit on order but obviously no instructions. I have the Haynes Stromberg book. But I wondered if anyone had done a step by step rebuild tutorial? I could attempt it here if no one has (I have found a cd150 rebuild on youtube), but would need a lot of input and checks from everyone. I know some components may need reaming. Cheers Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 Check out Buckeye https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/carburetors They mention 175’s but the instructions are the same for your 150 Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 these guys do a good tutorial the fact this is aimed at TR ignor https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/carburetors if the throttle shaft bores are worn it must be set up on a jig and accurately reamed to keep the accurate alignment . even worn units can be made a decent runner just what are they saying is stuffed there is very little apart from throttle spindle bores that cannot be done on the kitchen table dont get sucked into paying ££££s for very little you can DIY pretty much all of it there is little we cant steer you through a new spindle as these wear more than the bore makes a big improvement and needle adjusters are available if its jammed or unlikely to be worn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 Paul snap !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 I learnt from the Master 😜 Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 I have the car back now as I wasn't going to let them do it. Rebuild kit on order. If needed they said they would be happy to ream anything, etc. I think it is the spindle but will check over the next week or so. According to my records other than tuning, the carbs are untouched from at least 1990 when the car was repaired/rebuilt by Sports Car Supplies so plently of time to wear out. With any luck it might just be the spindle and the rest just needs a good clean. But as the rebuild kit contains bushes, etc should they be replaced as well even if the originals appear ok? Looked at a few feeds already and some especially on the 175's is very good. Cheers Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 16, 2021 Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 Adrian, I've done it on my late MK3 Strombergs, It was quite simple. I changed the spindles and butterflies, but the bushes were OK. I think that's quite usual, the spindles are softer than the bushes. The kits are universal so there's a lot of things in the kit you don't need. Annoyingly my kit had the wrong jets, they're different on the late and earlier GT6s and they wouldn't change them. They wanted the whole kit back, but as I'd already started I had to buy new jets. You should be OK as your car is the earlier model. Also annoyingly new needles aren't in the kit. If I was doing it again I would buy the bits separately, much cheaper. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 Hi Doug My thoughts exactly but being a first timer I've opted for the kit. Also read off the tags to Zenith who are also supplying matched new jet/needles. The way things are going the only things remaining untouched are going to be the diff, gears and head/pistons. As he's being gumpy about the carbs I may as well pull the gearbox and replace gaskets there as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 18, 2021 Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 Adrian, Luckily my diff doesn't leak, I topped it up for the 1st time in 30 years and could only get an eggcup full in, hope yours is the same. Reverse gear is becoming troublesome, I know what it is, the selector lever, I've got a repair kit. An easy job once you've got the tunnel off, which is why I haven't done it yet! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 18, 2021 Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 the later stroms had a bush and seal you can replace , its alook see before you attack something thats not there the kit will probaly have a number of float chamber gaskets as the periferal shape changed over the years and get the wrong one and a corner will end up with a real leaker , so its check before fitting that it real does fit all round /everywhere does it include sels for temperature compensators seals 0 rings pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 18, 2021 Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said: Luckily my diff doesn't leak, A few months ago I filled my diff with Redline and noticed this week it's dribbled some red oil on the ground. Not looking forward to getting underneath to inspect☹️. Will the jobs never end! Iain 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted June 18, 2021 Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 Filled my Triumph diffs with EP140 nice and quiet now Iain with no leaks as well. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 18, 2021 Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 12 minutes ago, poppyman said: Filled my Triumph diffs with EP140 Tony The Redline is I think the same, recommended in the Forum. When I checked the diff there was hardly any oil in it so I filled up with Redline. Perhaps I now know why it was empty! Iain Doesn't make a noise or clonk so I'm hoping just a seal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 Hi all Just taken the carbs off and as an initial check gave a waggle to the Throttle spindles. Basically can feel a very slight movement so perhaps the spindle and or the o rings are worn. As Burlens also said the jet/needles were probably worn I have a set of these and these need to be pressed out. I've seen the videos on the needle lock, etc. but so far have not seen one for pressing out and pressing in the fixed jet. I'm guessing its a similar process to replacing bushes (strong vice and appropriate socket?). Going to try to get is sorted this week if I can, all sorts of little fiddly washers and seals but am resisting opening the bag just in case anything gets missplaced in the mean time! Also whilst taking off I noticed the bottom of the throttle linkage bracket (that bolts onto the block) was quite loose. The very bottom link is a rivetted joint, is this a potential problem, can a quick controlled hammer tighten it up or does it need re-rivetting, or indeed leaving alone? Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 my guess is the jet will be ok have a look with a magnifier if its round its fine the needles dont realy wear either being biased they do rub on the jet but its much lighter rub than a mis placed fixed needle caeb. the jet holder can be presses in/out with a wide vice and assortment of mandrills etc unless you need utopia dont touch them just check they are at the same heights if un sure about a needle and holder 0 ring swap do it in a poly bag so you dont loose parts have you read the buckeye sire its the best step by step guide make sure the throttle plates are fully closed and centralised before you nip up the two fixing screws and the plates are chamfered only fit one way round Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Hi Pete Yes I have read the Buckeye thread and also this recent youtube addition from Midwest Motoring which I thought was very helpful in a) understanding how things work and b) the methodology/effort needed for dissasembly, etc, again for a 175. They have done 3 videos on dissassembly and assembly in June 2020. I might make a start this afternoon. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 let us know how you get on dont do more than is needed . if you have temperature compensators just make sure the thing is adjusted to be SHUT you dont want them opening when setting idle and mixtures at normal temperatures or you just get crazy results set the derin washer on the needle level with the base of the air piston ( thats the factory setting ) it should not need any other adjustments the other option is fit the maniflold/carb flange gasket upside down and you block them off completely Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Seniac Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 4 hours ago, Adrian said: Hi Pete Yes I have read the Buckeye thread and also this recent youtube addition from Midwest Motoring which I thought was very helpful in a) understanding how things work and b) the methodology/effort needed for dissasembly, etc, again for a 175. They have done 3 videos on dissassembly and assembly in June 2020. I might make a start this afternoon. Adrian Hi Adrian sounds really complicated but having read your thread with people helping/advising like Pete, Doug and poppy you should overcome any major problems I’m sure .. good luck looking forward too your next informative posts ... Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 4 hours ago, Adrian said: . I might make a start this afternoon. Adrian Golden rule.....only do one carb at a time so you have a reference should it all go t*ts up! Iain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 yep only started looking at one carb. Pretty clean inside. Not taken the jet out or stripped the needle yet. Can't quite tell but doesn't look completely round to me although doesn't look oval either? Hopefully the video works although I have my doubts (I used to be able to upload but now they don't seem to want to play) - NO tried it and it won't play ggrrr annoying. The spindle shows some movement in the bush (the spindle rubber seal offers no resistance when slotting in so is probably a source of air leakage so i think that definately needs replacing). I can feel a very slight slimming of the spindle but no pronounced ridge. The temperature compensator seal was hard and pretty useless. So actually at least for this one not much to clean. I checked with Burlen and the jet is pressed in from the bottom and set 100 thou below the bridge. So first things first is a good clean and then see whats what. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Just trying a direct download from my iPhone rather than through the pc. That’s the problem. By the way the face isn’t exactly scratch free but assume the gasket should take care of that? IMG_3007.MOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 7 hours ago, Adrian said: Just trying a direct download from my iPhone rather than through the pc. That’s the problem. By the way the face isn’t exactly scratch free but assume the gasket should take care of that? IMG_3007.MOV 27.26 MB · 0 downloads Make sure both jets are set the same or balancing will be a issue , I think you have a typo should be 10 thou ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 Definitely 100 thou, 0.1” or 2.4mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 6 minutes ago, Adrian said: Definitely 100 thou, 0.1” or 2.4mm I stand corrected ! Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 so so far theres not much dramatcally wrong that a bit of tlc wont solve sorry cant stop it typo in bold Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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