Jump to content

Rebuilding 150 CDSE


Adrian
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi Chaps

Following on from my fuel has lost its oomph the issue hasen't been resolved as the garage has said there is some wear in the components and a call to Zenith diagnosed the fact that tuning couldn't lean the mixture enough concluded that a rebuild was needed. So where do we go from here, kit on order but obviously no instructions. I have the Haynes Stromberg book. But I wondered if anyone had done a step by step rebuild tutorial?

I could attempt it here if no one has (I have found a cd150 rebuild on youtube), but would need a lot of input and checks from everyone. I know some components may need reaming.

Cheers

Adrian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

these guys do a good tutorial the fact this is aimed at TR ignor 

https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/carburetors

if the throttle shaft bores are worn it must be set up on a jig and accurately reamed to keep the accurate alignment .

even worn units can be made a decent runner  just what are they saying is stuffed  there is very little apart from throttle spindle bores that cannot be done 

on the kitchen table dont get sucked into paying ££££s  for very little 

you can DIY pretty much all of it  there is little we cant steer you through 

a new spindle as these wear more than the bore makes a big improvement and needle adjusters are available if its jammed or unlikely to be worn

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the car back now as I wasn't going to let them do it. Rebuild kit on order. If needed they said they would be happy to ream anything, etc. I think it is the spindle but will check over the next week or so. According to my records other than tuning, the carbs are untouched from at least 1990 when the car was repaired/rebuilt by Sports Car Supplies so plently of time to wear out. With any luck it might just be the spindle and the rest just needs a good clean. But as the rebuild kit contains bushes, etc should they be replaced as well even if the originals appear ok?

Looked at a few feeds already and some especially on the 175's is very good.

Cheers

Adrian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adrian,

I've done it on my late MK3 Strombergs, It was quite simple. I changed the spindles and butterflies, but the bushes were OK. I think that's quite usual, the spindles are softer than the bushes. The kits are universal so there's a lot of things in the kit you don't need.  Annoyingly my kit had the wrong jets, they're different on the late and earlier GT6s and they wouldn't change them. They wanted the whole kit back, but as I'd already started I had to buy new jets. You should be OK as your car is the earlier model. Also annoyingly new needles aren't in the kit. If I was doing it again I would buy the bits separately, much cheaper. 

Doug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Doug

My thoughts exactly but being a first timer I've opted for the kit. Also read off the tags to Zenith who are also supplying matched new jet/needles.

The way things are going the only things remaining untouched are going to be the diff, gears and head/pistons. As he's being gumpy about the carbs I may as well pull the gearbox and replace gaskets there as well!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adrian,

Luckily my diff doesn't leak, I topped it up for the 1st time in 30 years and could only get an eggcup full in, hope yours is the same. Reverse gear is becoming troublesome, I know what it is, the selector lever, I've got a repair kit. An easy job once you've got the tunnel off, which is why I haven't done it yet!

Doug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the later stroms had a bush and seal you can replace , its alook see before you attack something thats not there

the kit will probaly have a number of float chamber gaskets as the periferal shape changed over the years and get the wrong one and a corner will 

end up with a real leaker , so its check before fitting that it real does fit all round /everywhere

does it include sels for temperature compensators seals 0 rings 

pete

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, poppyman said:

Filled my Triumph diffs with EP140

Tony

The Redline is I think the same, recommended in the Forum. When I checked the diff there was hardly any oil in it so I filled up with Redline. Perhaps I now know why it was empty! 

Iain 

Doesn't make a noise or clonk so I'm hoping just a seal. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all

Just taken the carbs off and as an initial check gave a waggle to the Throttle spindles. Basically can feel a very slight movement so perhaps the spindle and or the o rings are worn. As Burlens also said the jet/needles were probably worn I have a set of these and these need to be pressed out. I've seen the videos on the needle lock, etc. but so far have not seen one for pressing out and pressing in the fixed jet. I'm guessing its a similar process to replacing bushes (strong vice and appropriate socket?). Going to try to get is sorted this week if I can, all sorts of little fiddly washers and seals but am resisting opening the bag just in case anything gets missplaced in the mean time!

Also whilst taking off I noticed the bottom of the throttle linkage bracket (that bolts onto the block) was quite loose. The very bottom link is a rivetted joint, is this a potential problem, can a quick controlled hammer tighten it up or does it need re-rivetting, or indeed leaving alone?

Adrian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my guess is the jet will be ok have a look with a magnifier  if its round its fine the needles dont realy wear either being biased they do rub on the jet but its  

much lighter rub than a mis placed fixed needle caeb.

the jet holder can be presses in/out with a wide vice and assortment of mandrills etc unless you need utopia dont touch them just check they are at the same heights

if un sure about a needle and holder 0 ring swap do it in a poly bag so you dont loose parts 

have you read the buckeye sire its the best step by step guide

make sure the throttle plates are fully closed and centralised before you nip up the two fixing screws and the plates are chamfered only fit one way round 

Pete

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Pete

Yes I have read the Buckeye thread and also this recent youtube addition from Midwest Motoring

    which I thought was very helpful in a) understanding how things work and b) the methodology/effort needed for dissasembly, etc, again for a 175.

They have done 3 videos on dissassembly and assembly in June 2020. I might make a start this afternoon.

Adrian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

let us know how you get on 

dont do more than is needed .  if you have temperature compensators just make sure the thing is adjusted to be  SHUT

you dont want them opening when setting idle and mixtures at normal temperatures or you just get crazy results 

set the derin washer on the needle level with the base of the air piston  ( thats the factory setting ) it should not need any other adjustments 

the other option is fit the maniflold/carb flange gasket upside down and you block them  off  completely 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Adrian said:

Hi Pete

Yes I have read the Buckeye thread and also this recent youtube addition from Midwest Motoring

    which I thought was very helpful in a) understanding how things work and b) the methodology/effort needed for dissasembly, etc, again for a 175.

They have done 3 videos on dissassembly and assembly in June 2020. I might make a start this afternoon.

Adrian

Hi Adrian sounds really complicated but having read your thread with people helping/advising like Pete, Doug and poppy you should overcome any major problems I’m sure .. good luck looking forward too your next informative posts ...  

Mark 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yep only started looking at one carb. Pretty clean inside. Not taken the jet out or stripped the needle yet. Can't quite tell but doesn't look completely round to me although doesn't look oval either?

Hopefully the video works although I have my doubts (I used to be able to upload but now they don't seem to want to play) - NO tried it and it won't play ggrrr annoying. The spindle shows some movement in the bush (the spindle rubber seal offers no resistance when slotting in so is probably a source of air leakage so i think that definately needs replacing). I can feel a very slight slimming of the spindle but no pronounced ridge. The temperature compensator seal was hard and pretty useless.

So actually at least for this one not much to clean. I checked with Burlen and the jet is pressed in from the bottom and set 100 thou below the bridge.

So first things first is a good clean and then see whats what.

Adrian

IMG_3012.JPG

IMG_3013.JPG

IMG_3009.JPG

IMG_3011.JPG

 

IMG_3008.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Adrian said:

Just trying a direct download from my iPhone rather than through the pc. That’s the problem. By the way the face isn’t exactly scratch free but assume the gasket should take care of that?

 

Make sure both jets are set the same or balancing will be a issue , I think you have a typo should be 10 thou ? 
Paul 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...