Anglefire Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 If you must solder (I don't like it for several reasons) then make sure its acid free. But IMHO crimps are much better and its how the industry connects wires together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A TR7 16V Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 The relay and the brown and blue striped wire arrived this lunch time and the jobs now done bar a tie wrap or so. The spare spade (top right) on the master light switch that's in parallel with the permanent live feed: This may be the biggest problem in the project, as it needs a big terminal and a crimp tool for the job: The crimp tool I linked to before is what I used. It's two wires because I chose to run separate feeds to the two relays rather than a common one and a jumper. This shows the completed additional loom: The runs of thick and thin blue and white (main) and blue and red (dip) wires are a bit longer than perhaps would be ideal. That's because I had to mount the relays to the left of the radio/USB player or move the lighter/power sockets. This shows the relays wired up and ready to connect: This shoes where I'm going to splice into the existing wire for the dips: And this shows the dip relay feeds spliced in: This is where the mains are to be spliced: This is the set of mains and dips spliced in, with just the wires to tuck away above the column: And this is the two relays mounted under the front of the dash: Finally, the pile of shame - the terminals that went wrong: Why's the editor adding this last one and not letting me delete it? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pimp my Vit Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 On 28/06/2021 at 19:00, dougbgt6 said: These are also nice, cheap as chips, headlights on relays. 12V Car H4 Headlight Lamp Bulb Relay Wiring Harness Kit Socket Plug Wire UK | eBay db So Doug for Vitesse do you need two of these, one for inner and one for outer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 PmV, To be honest I'm not quite clear what the Vitesse headlight set up does are the outer pair main and the inner dipped, or are all 4 main and dippable? Having said that you realise my level of Vitesse competence, however, I don't see why one kit shouldn't do it, but you're going to have to re wire the connectors. At the East Berks meeting last night the only Vitesse owner said he has off to join Windsor Area as they had Vitesses and NO GT6s! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 On a standard Vitesse dipped = outer main = outer and inner I modified mine dipped = outer and inner . With a remote blade fuse which is removed for mots as it’s illegal to have 4 dipped lights I have 2 relays which are situated by the dynamo , dipped and main Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 I had all 4 on my Vit6 it always passed the mot as they only checked the outer then inner never all 4 relays and halogens makes it very illuminating !!! just getting 12/14 v to the pointed end makes the old seal beam glow worms vastly better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A TR7 16V Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 17 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: you're going to have to re wire the connectors. If you modify this kit for a 4 lamp setup, you'll also need to check the feed wires from the battery/fuse are up to the current needed to feed 4 mains, possibly allowing for the 2 (or 4) dips as well, if you flash lights driving on dips. Also, you'll need to check any wire feeding the left and right pairs of mains from the output of the relay is up to that current load. Assuming 60 Watt mains and 55 Watt dips and max of 14 Volts supply, that's 4.3 Amps per main (60/14) and 4 per dip (55/14). However, you also want a reasonable safety margin in case of things like the bulbs are 60 Watts at 12V and you are driving them at 14. Current won't go up pro-rata for that one, because the resistance of a filament bulb is changes with the current - the current does not increase linearly with voltage because the resistance (volts/amps) is related to the filament temperature which is related to the power (Volts x Amps) being dissipated. I'd allow at least 1.5 (maybe 1.414) times the calculated requirement for safety/ageing - but my background is avionics where weight is an issue. So I think you should spec. the wire working on at least 6 amps per bulb. And if there's any chance someone might fit 100W mains later, you may want to allow 9 or 10 Amps per main. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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