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Spitfire 1500 - Re-Living My Youth (RLMY)


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11 hours ago, Pettifordo said:

My thoughts are now moving to getting the car resprayed - doesn’t anyone have recommendations ?

How much would you expect to pay ?

It depends what state the body is in. 

There are places that will do final flat and topcoat for under £1000. If it needs additional work then the price goes up accordingly. And of course, how much work involved in removal of handles/bumpers/lights and masking up.

The materials for spraying are not cheap, I reckon spraying a car mayself, primer/topcoat etc plus abrasives, stopper etc is about £250, and I don't buy expensive paint (my skill level doesn't warrant it!)

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Lengths of bits of string!!!! But heres a few thoughts:

• I did a respray on the wife's Copen last month. Very little correcting, filling or priming was required but it was nonethless £300 on materials and 40 hours work. So 'trade' that would have been £1500 for an easy job.

• In your locality you can expect there will be many small business and one-man-shows who do refinishing at reasonable rates. But the good ones don't advertise because they don't need to. Only way to find them is to ask around. But NEVER acceed to requests for money up front 'for materials'. That's a 'walk away' scenario.

• Refinishing a resto need careful planning. The most expensive respray is the one that has to be done twice. It is oh-so-easy to respray a car then find that the doors don't fit, or the bumpers don't align, or the screen won't  go in etc etc etc or whatever. Trial fitting of everything is much to be recommended.

• How much of a respray? A 'doors shut' respray (i.e. just the outer, visible panels) is one thing. But if it includes inside of bonnet, boot area, reverse of boot lid, door returns, bulkhead, scuttle then costs escalate rapidly. For example spraying the inside of a bonnet on a Spitfire is considerably more difficult than spraying the outside.

But I guess that £2k is a realistic minimum budget. But that could easily expand depending on requirements.

PS When the body is fitted up could you share some photos?

 

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14 minutes ago, Pettifordo said:

Thanks for all the feedback - I’ve had someone recommended locally so will see how it goes with him.

Also having heard that some of you have done your own spraying I’m pondering if I should have a go 🧐🧐

I have "been having a go" for about 25 years. My work is reasonable in outcome, but lack of a proper booth/dust free environment is my biggest issue. Cheap equipment may not help? But I have 2 tips.

1. Acrylic stopper for sorting very small imperfections

2. 2K primer, cellulose is horrendous stuff as it sinks for ages. I also use 2k topcoat. BUT I have an air fed mask, if I get a whiff of 2K paint spray my asthma is terrible for days or even weeks. If I got constant expose I expect I would die. It has serious health consequences if not treated with utter respect.

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8 hours ago, Pettifordo said:

Hmmmm - I hadn’t considered the health aspect - perhaps I’ll get quotes first 

2k paint is the one that is really nasty and needs an air fed mask. Cellulose, basecoat etc you can use a simple mask with suitable filter. Best be careful if spraying next to your house, as it can make the place stink. 

I don't want to put you off, but spraying a car is not to be undertaken lightly. 

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I've just had my Spitfire resprayed by trjbodyworx in Kings Norton.  It's a stunning job.  I also had had a lot of welding done to fit the Mk1 hinges to the refurbished Mk3 chassis and there was a lot of prep needed for painting and then re-assembly so I'm not sure what the breakdown of cost would be just for spraying but I didn't feel overcharged. Gaz, the owner, will be most competitive if the car is delivered with trim and screen removed.  There won't be any humming and hawing, I wasn't asked for any cash up front and no VAT surprises at the end.

Owner is Gaz, 7 Ardath Road, Kings Norton, B38 9PN tel 07894 947487 or 0121 433 5504.  They may be moving to a new unit nearby.  Tell him that you know he did my Spitfire so he'll know what size of car he's dealing with.

5196FF21-7ABC-4981-8C24-5B717FB1A1DE.jpeg

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13 minutes ago, Neil Clark said:

I hate to say it Alan, but I paid far far less than that!

Not surprised. I did go ‘super high’ on quality after 5 years of removing all flaws from a wreck. In the plus, it looks incredible! 

00CB93B6-04E3-45D7-A2FF-9B75BB748B9B.jpeg

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I think that’s about as far as I can take the chassis and suspension (still waiting for track rod ends).

171DF7CA-7620-4596-9BD6-FDFF8A9BA4A4.thumb.jpeg.d1647593cc4017ca32a0d456943bceb8.jpegAEB6104C-2B2A-4D1E-84DE-B4308608B3C4.thumb.jpeg.abdbe5a8eda955f2344bf428e484b1c2.jpeg403182C4-91E5-44FE-910C-FB902C8897C0.thumb.jpeg.0ed281e8d563f64ab3facd787704a204.jpeg

Next week I’ll focus on getting the seam sealer on the tub and paint the underside of the tub and waxoyl the sills and chassis (not looking forward to that job).

Then I will need to get friends to help me get the tub back on the chassis 👍

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9 hours ago, Neil Clark said:

opportunity for a street party!

@Neil Clark Yes I already have my crack team picked out (including a friend with an Engine Hoist 👍👍

I‘’m concerned that my welding will have “moved” the mounting points (I did brace the tub but I had to replace the rear suspension tunnel 😩).

I can see if needing some “fettling” 🤣

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4 hours ago, Pettifordo said:

@Neil Clark Yes I already have my crack team picked out (including a friend with an Engine Hoist 👍👍

I‘’m concerned that my welding will have “moved” the mounting points (I did brace the tub but I had to replace the rear suspension tunnel 😩).

I can see if needing some “fettling” 🤣

One useful thing I learned (eventually) was to not fully tighten any of the body to chassis bolts until certain that it is sitting visually correctly vis a vis both the rear wheels and the bonnet.  Despite so many fixing points mine just looked wrong for a while but a well placed thigh pushed progressively against the rear quarter, even a tenth at a time, got me there eventually.  Yours may well be easier - mine was going on a refurbished chassis from another source and it drove me crazy until sorted.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just had a friend round to look at progress and we started to discuss the order of putting the car back together.

I had planned the following :-

1) Put tub and bonnet on the chassis

2) Once panels all aligned, send for respray (or do it myself)

3) Reassemble Engine and Attach gear box 

4) Put engine in car and attach water hoses / rad / petrol tank

5) Recommission electrics

6) Do interior / hood / bumpers

Does that seem like a sensible order or should the engine go in before putting the tub / bonnet ?

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12 hours ago, Pettifordo said:

Does that seem like a sensible order or should the engine go in before putting the tub / bonnet ?

I would definitely put the engine, gearbox, diff, prop, axles, brake and fuel pipes, and rear handbrake cable onto the chassis before putting the body on.

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