Spitfire 1500 - Re-Living My Youth (RLMY)

[Badwolf]

Those are looking really good. Puts my somewhat worn hammerited yonks ago springs to shame.

[Pettifordo]

These are the old shock tops - I guess this kind of wear is caused by perished bushes in the past.

Assume they are for the scrap pile

I also have my old rear leaf spring which I think is ok but I couldn’t get the bushes out - anyone got ideas about the best way to recycle this - seems a shame to throw it away

[Badwolf]

I ended up burning the old bushes out of mine after stripping numerous threaded bar pieces trying to press them out with the usual socket routine. I was fitting polybush replacements. A lot of effort, but worth it in the end. Should be easier to get them out if the spring is off the car....mine wasn't!

[AlanT]

Not sure about the results from using an old leaf spring again. I replaced all buttons and bushes but the car still sits slightly lower on the driver’s side. Am probably going to replace for new in the Autumn. 
Others may have had better outcomes.

[Pettifordo]

7 hours ago, AlanT said:

Others may have had better outcomes.

I have no idea what it was like - just seems a shame to scrap it……but I get it will be off to the tip.

[Pete Lewis]

bush removal,, cut the centre tube rubber and hacksaw through the bush outer tube 

and they fall out 

Pete

 

[Badwolf]

Oh no it didn't!!!! Mine were effectively glued around the outer section of the bush to the metal....and the spring/rubbers were almost new in mileage terms. Also very, very hard. I now wonder how long the spring had been in stock before I got it.

[Pettifordo]

Wheels ! I’m soooo excited…..

To be able to push the chassis round like a wheel barrow 🤣🤣🤣🤣

I assume that I am best to fit the shock top mount once the tub is back on and I have some weight on the spring ? Or do other methods work ?

 

[Pete Lewis]

yes support /lift wheel and waggle the top bush in place 

some would fit top first and  lever the bottom onto the stud its easier that

holding all aligned and fitting the through bolt 

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

On 20/05/2022 at 17:55, Pettifordo said:

Anyone know any guides for what to do with the shims for the suspension towers and suspension ?

Do I put one on each bolt and adjust later or some some cunning plan ?

I would have said: don't put any on until you get the car checked then add as necessary, but if you have old ones and know where they came from you could replace them as before if nothing has been altered. You'll still be best to get the car professionally checked once complete.

Re the lower shock mount - I find it easier to fit the top then extend and wiggle the shock onto the lower nut; jack or lower as required.

[Pettifordo]

Back shocks on - doing the lower mount second is definitely the way to go - I never could have got the top one in under tension - thanks @Pete Lewis

Starting to build up the front now.

A bit of huffing and puffing to get the lower wish bone in but everting else is going Ok….so far 🤣

[Pete Lewis]

reckon  one up one down  is the normal 

as is very rusty and thinned studs inside the chassis rails always worth a check 

Pete

[Pettifordo]

@MathewI think it is the photo - it looks level to me.

@Pete Lewis what do you mean about it being rusty ? I’ve taken them all apart and painted them and welded up the chassis where required.

One issue I’m having is getting the top bush on the shock thru the hole in the top of the tower - any tricks for this or do I wait until I get some weight on the suspension ??

[Pete Lewis]

good youve had a look at the pivot brackets  many are ignored inside the chassis and they can be 

awfully thin after hiding for 50 years 

pleased youres are painted and in good nick 

if the suspenion is hanging then you need to jack it up to get the top bush in place 

pete

[Pettifordo]

2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

if the suspenion is hanging then you need to jack it up to get the top bush in place 

With no weight on the chassis jacking up just lifts the whole thing up - guess that can wait until the engine is back I and have a go then.

The bush seems to be too squashed so is hanging out the edge like a muffin top. If I have the shock attached at the bottom and the 3 nuts are on the top can I take off the top shock nut so the bush gets narrower and then once it is threw the hole put it back on again ? Or I could use a Stanley knife to “trim” the bush…..sort of feels like I’m doing something wrong 😩😩

[mark powell]

14 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

reckon  one up one down  is the normal 

as is very rusty and thinned studs inside the chassis rails always worth a check 

Pete

Found on my Midge rebuild....

[Pete Lewis]

 Mark  thats a good find  pretty spectacular when it snaps apart 

Pettif 

the shocker is all that holds the spring from expanding and flying off all the spring load is taken by the top shocker bush when its jacked or hanging so top bush does deform 

do not remove the shocker spindle and bottom fixing or zebedee takes over  and then you need a spring compressor to re assemble thats if youre not in A & E

Pete

 

 

[Pettifordo]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

do not remove the shocker spindle

I will wait until I have some weight on the chassis or or ask for the help of my heavier friends 🙂

[chrishawley]

As above, but just to ask: On the upper pin of the damper have you got the correct dome cap under the nut? It helps the bush to keep its shape. Also, although the nut (or originally two plain nuts, locked) holds the assembly together it doesn't need to be particularyly tight. Relaxing the nut a bit may reduce 'muffin-ness' but that necessitates removing the unit from the car and using the compressor again.

Picking up on Mathew's point; I'm not quite fully convinced that all is ok with the rear wishbone bracket. From the 'photo it does look like it's not sitting square and the eye of the arm is not sitting centrally in the wings of the bracket. The eyes don't necessarily sit dead central in the brackets but the 'photo seems to suggest that the eye is tight up at the rear.

Was remedial welding required in the ares of either of the brackets? And were the crush tubes inside the chassis rail present and correct?

[Pettifordo]

10 hours ago, chrishawley said:

Was remedial welding required in the ares of either of the brackets? And were the crush tubes inside the chassis rail present and correct?

No welding was needed in this area…..but I’m not sure what a crush tube is so no idea if they area present.

I will leave the shock until the car has some weight on it and see if it pops into place - I have the correct dome cap on the top.

I will give the wishbone another check over - but it seems straight and I was able to fit the lower shock mount ok which wild have been difficult had it been “on the piss” - it is hard over as I had some “jiggling” to do on the other side and I knocked it over - I will tap it back a bit.

[chrishawley]

Ah yes, a photo does does not necessarily give the full picture.

tubes: where the bolts on the brackets go through the chassis. The hole on the outer face and hole on the inner face has a little tube running between - fixed in place. Such that as the bracket is tightened up the inner face of the chassis does not just 'crush'.  But could only be an issue if repairs had been made in this area - which they haven't - which is good.

[Pettifordo]

Did the wheel bearings and fitted new discs today…all was going well until I tried to fit the new callipers

Once they are done up the wheel doesn’t move and I can’t get the dust cover to fit as it catches on the housing of the calliper.

Any idea what I am doing wrong ? The car is a 1980 1500 - do I have the wrong callipers ?? (They are exchange ones from Rimmer Bros)

[alan.gilbert_6384]

Have you done the wheel bearings ? If so check they are fully seated, just an idea.  Hope you sort it soon.

[Pettifordo]

Front suspension almost finished, just need the brackets from the brake hoses to dry after painting and I will get the brake pipes on the car. 

I have a single system master cylinder but a tandem system junction box - I’m assuming the car would have been dual when new (1980) - but I’m going to go single for now as those are the new pipes I have.

I’m also waiting on track rod ends which are on back order with Rimmer Bros.

My thoughts are now moving to getting the car resprayed - doesn’t anyone have recommendations ?

How much would you expect to pay ?

[Josef]

Spraying a Spitfire is going to cost in the region of £2000.