Spitfire 1500 - Re-Living My Youth (RLMY)

[Piglet]

Think that proves what I know! 

However I can confirm with authority that the other red light switch is the hazards,

I hope.

Alex

[Pettifordo]

I meant the switch outlined on green

[Josef]

If your tacho is electronic (it should be from the year) and you’ll cover all the postage I’m happy to take a look and see if it can be resurrected. I should be able to get it up and running unless something inside is completely destroyed, which is unlikely. 

[Pettifordo]

40 minutes ago, Josef said:

see if it can be resurrected

Thanks - it is Electronic - I will check the wiring first

[johny]

Unfortunately I just cant see it being external to the tacho. As Josef says it must be internal, probably dry bearing or broken return spring (do electronic ones have those?)...

[Josef]

43 minutes ago, johny said:

Unfortunately I just cant see it being external to the tacho. As Josef says it must be internal, probably dry bearing or broken return spring (do electronic ones have those?)...

The return spring setup is pretty different to the mechanical ones I’d be surprised if it’s broken. My suspicion is dirt, but any messing with it might knock the calibration (which is done by bending metal tabs in and out to affect the magnetic field!). 

[Pettifordo]

More progress today, pedals and master cylinders in plus battery and solenoid. 

The car turns over and some of the electrics work…..not the windscreen wipers 🧐 Will have to check the fuses.

Ignition lights up the dipped beam light and the main beam lights up the ignition so not a very good hit rate on multiple random positions !!! Will have those off tomorrow and see if I can fix the tacho at the same time 🤣

Fuel lines on Saturday….then I might try to start her/him/it

Once I add the oil / water and bleed the brakes etc etc etc etc

 

 

[Pettifordo]

On 14/09/2022 at 19:21, Pettifordo said:

Also what does the red switch on the right do !

The switch is for rear fog lights ! But with a replacement switch

[AlanT]

11 hours ago, Pettifordo said:

More progress today, pedals and master cylinders in plus battery and solenoid. 

The car turns over and some of the electrics work…..not the windscreen wipers 🧐 Will have to check the fuses.

Ignition lights up the dipped beam light and the main beam lights up the ignition so not a very good hit rate on multiple random positions !!! Will have those off tomorrow and see if I can fix the tacho at the same time 🤣

Fuel lines on Saturday….then I might try to start her/him/it

Once I add the oil / water and bleed the brakes etc etc etc etc

 

 

My wipers didn’t work either. The spade plugs on the motor are somewhat corrosion exposed. A bit of filing sorted things. 

[Pettifordo]

4 hours ago, AlanT said:

of filing sorted things. 

Check fuses - all ok - then wiggles the connections and they worked 👍

[Badwolf]

On 15/09/2022 at 20:38, Pettifordo said:

Fuel lines on Saturday….then I might try to start her/him/it

Oh no.... don't tell us that our cars are now 'none binary' (whatever that actually means).

[Pettifordo]

On 18/09/2022 at 09:40, Badwolf said:

none binary

Until I get it back on the road I won’t know what the car is…

[Pettifordo]

So more progress today :-

one reversing light, drivers seat (one of the captive nuts in the new floor gave way 😡😡 Not even my welding), indicators light up but don’t flash (assume I need a new flasher unit), choke cable fitted (but missing connection to carbs (more on that later), petrol pipes done (E10), clutch bleed……and it almost started !!!

I wasted time by trusting the PO timing and plug leads……anyway it seemed to be upside down and timing was at least 10 degrees out. Once that was sorted I was starting to get some coughing and spluttering and then the battery started to fail 😩😩😩

I’m hoping that with the choke connected and the battery charged we should be good - or what else might be stopping it ?

Anyone got any tips on how to manually set the dizzy to get the first firing ? I can use a timing light once it is running. My current method is to rotate to TDC and then line up the dizzy cap with the rotor arm for plug lead number 1 by eye……but I’m open to ideas.

The bit for the choke is coming on Wednesday so will try to start it once I have a choke.

The other problem could be fuel - I am getting some to the carbs but don’t know how to check “how much is enough” - I remember my old Spit had a dodgy fuel pump that meant it would cut out over higher RPM - should I think about just replacing the fuel pump ?

[Josef]

If you fill / the pump is filling the carb dash pots with fuel that should be enough to get it to start and run for a short period. I’d get it running and then work from there rather than immediately looking to replace the fuel pump. Also bear in mind that from a completely empty tank, putting a full gallon can of fuel in will leave you pretty close to a functionally empty tank (I spent ages faffing with mine till I realised there just wasn’t enough in the tank to let it get going…)

[Pettifordo]

40 minutes ago, Josef said:

faffing with mine till I realised there just wasn’t enough in the tank to let it get going

I think I will try some more fuel - good idea - and will check the dash pots

[AlanT]

Good progress. 
Your timing sounds close enough to go. My experience is that they won’t start without quite a bit of choke.

[chrishawley]

Getting a 'dead cold' engine started can be a bit circular: A nice clean start requires correct carb air balance and correct mixture (among other things)- but adjusting these require an engine to be running!

Regarding static timing: Do you have the Ops. Manual? If so, it's nicely set out in section 86.35.15.

Fuel: just to get the engine running minimal fuel is need. Suggest: disconnect fuel to rear carb, crank engine on starter for a few turns, each turn should deliver a spurt about one desert spoonful. That's enough. Jam jar useful.

Perhaps the main issue is that a dead cold engine is very unlikely to start without generous enrichment from the choke mechanism. I'd hazard a guess once the choke is operative the engine will be more cooperative. The choke works best when finely balanced between the carbs. But that has to be done after the mixture, air balance and idle has been sorted. A starting position is to check that as the choke knob is pulled it lowers the jets on each carb by a roughly equal amount.

In getting a dead cold engine into a initial running condition a can of Bradex Easy Start can be an asset.

[Pettifordo]

On 19/09/2022 at 20:25, chrishawley said:

Bradex Easy Start

So - I got the part to attach the clutch cable and some Bradex Easy Start as per @chrishawley recommendation.

With the plug leads sorted and the timing almost right the engine would first for 3-4 firing and then die if I used the easy start.

So the problem was fuel.

I check fuel getting to the carbs and that was ok.

Then checked the needles where moving up and down ok - and the back was sticking right at the bottom - so I had this off and gave it a good clean with some pipe cleaners and also filled the pots with some EP90 oil. Front and rear moving smoothly.

The I checked the float chambers - rear was full but front was dry. The value was stuck shut ! Soaked with carb cleaner and eventually it moved and freed up.

Re-assembled and……it works !

 

 

But tappy but can sort that - the clutch also works (rear wheel off before you worry I did that when driving)

 

 

 

 

[Sparky_Spit]

Excellent news, a major milestone achieved! Very well done!

[Piglet]

Hooray!

Alex

[Pettifordo]

Me soon 

 

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[Pettifordo]

Moving under its own power

 

But now the frustrating part is starting with the electrics.

The main beam switch has given up and one of the head lights doesn’t work (this it could be the unit)

This stuff takes for ever….

[Pete Lewis]

its all part of the fun   well you know what i mean 

these things do happen for a reason ,,just not wanted 

keep at it  you will win 

Pete

[Pettifordo]

So indicators stalk fixed and all the lights work except dipped beam on the near side - I’m planning to pick up some halogen conversions at the Classic car show - I will need to adjust the headlamps at some point - will have a chat to someone about that at the CCS.

I fitted pneumatic struts to the bonnet which certainly makes lifting that up and down much nicer.

Todays project was to fit sound / heat proofing and to start to get the carpets in.

I used some self adhesive foam with a foil backing - so it looks nice and smart. Not sure it will make much difference !! Took 6m x 0.5m to do the whole cockpit.

Then I put the carpet on top 🤣🤣🤣 

Still need to glue all of that down.

Anyone have any tips for creating the holes in the carpet for the seats. I was thinking sharp mail from the underside - mark the spot and then make a cross slit with a Stanley knife.

[Josef]

Use an awl of some sort to poke through and locate the hole, then melt the carpet with a soldering iron (with plenty of ventilation!). It makes a neater hole and stops later fraying.