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individual copper brake lines


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Hi All,

Just been checking the Spitfire braking system to ensure that all is well.  I naively thought that it had all been replaced as its copper at the front all the way.  But no, some PO or more likely the garage he used, did not replace the whole system with copper, just the front sections (beggars belief, why do half a job ?).  So I need to replace the rear section from the front T backwards.  So can anyone recommend where to get the individual pipes ?  I looked at the club site but it only does full kits.  The front sections in copper are good as new so reluctant to replace them.

Cheers

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lots of places (I presume) can make pipes to length and fittings. 

But length needs to be very accurate, too much is a nightmare, too short = bin

But often a garage will repait what is neccessary, eg for MoT. Owners may not want to spend money of stuff that is not essential.

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Thanks All,

Found that Canleys now only do a complete set to order :( but at 50 squid not bad )they used to do the individual pipes at £8 need 4 of them so £32.  But then found a kit to make your own (cheers Colin) for £25.  I normally buy good tools but if you only need them once or twice its not economical to buy pro quality stuff, you just have to out with the faffing about.

https://www.onbuy.com/gb/copper-brake-lines-repair-kit-pipe-end-flarer-cutter-bender-316~c10590~p27129658/

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1 hour ago, alan.gilbert_6384 said:

But then found a kit to make your own (cheers Colin) for £25.  I normally buy good tools but if you only need them once or twice its not economical to buy pro quality stuff, you just have to out with the faffing about.

https://www.onbuy.com/gb/copper-brake-lines-repair-kit-pipe-end-flarer-cutter-bender-316~c10590~p27129658/

They once asked an Apollo astronaut how he was feeling just before take-off, he replied: "How do you think I feel, sitting on top of the end result of a thousand low-bidders?"

What I've found with brakes is that the better the tool, the easier the job and when it comes to that first red light or junction, I'm glad I did the job right...  we all have our preferred tools, price isn't always a pointer but the thing I've found with any of them is lots of practice making good flares before you commit to the actual fitted line, it pays dividends in the long run.

 

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14 hours ago, alan.gilbert_6384 said:

Hmmm. Caveat emptor, maybe. Pages and pages of conspicuously fake reviews. Possibly worth considering a branded product with at least some provenance e.g Sealey AK506. which might only be a few bob more.

 

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I have been using one of those cheap kits for donkeys years, made several complete sets for various cars (bought to do a Cavalier, circa 1992) and although a bit fiddly, after a couple of practice attempts it has always worked. Not much to go wrong.

Interestingly, I have just been gifted a much posher, pro type (Eastwood I think) that is probably similar age but seen little use. Yet to be used...

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1 hour ago, Badwolf said:

I actually got my pipes made up by the local car spares shop. Do they still do that sort of thing??

I would doubt it; I've never tried it, but H&S would probably leave them liable for any failures, so too much risk these days. Having said that, some make up hydraulic pipes while you wait, so I'll have to ask next time I'm in. 

1 hour ago, Iain T said:

At work we used to have a floor standing hydraulic machine to form single and double flares. Pretty foolproof providing the end of the pipe is clean and burr free. 

Iain 

I have a vice-mounted machine that is absolutely superb, even on kunifer which takes a lot more effort. I went through a variety - I've never tried the sort in Alan's link, the horse-shoe shaped version, but I have the 'pliers' type, a bit fiddly, and the popular screw-in version ( both pictured) is my second choice, but takes a lot of wrist-force to make good flares in kunifer; however it makes flares on the actual car where you have to bend a pipe to suit first and then flare once it's been cut to length.

s-l1600-75.jpg.cb4b464788a10419e8c72362c6870b7d.jpg s-l1600-72.jpg.e9e439c6aa03049103f4c49b3732dfad.jpg

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What kind of Spitfire is it ? Ive got my sisters  MK4 in the garage just now , If its the same as that its a single line system , I might be able to make a few pipes and send them to you using the Spitfire I have as a template. Ive got the tool for making brake pipes and a selection of ends.

EV

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13 hours ago, European Voyager said:

What kind of Spitfire is it ? Ive got my sisters  MK4 in the garage just now , If its the same as that its a single line system , I might be able to make a few pipes and send them to you using the Spitfire I have as a template. Ive got the tool for making brake pipes and a selection of ends.

EV

Hi EV, Thank you so much for your very kind offer.  I have already purchased the kit, its on its way, so Iwill let you know how I get on.  I may well take you up on the offer if it all goes pear shaped ;)   Thanks very much again.

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Hi All update on the brake pipes,

Kit arrived good news, and bad.  The bender is useful but now having completed the job, was not essential.  Pipe cutter was good.  Pipe flaring tool also good.  Now for the bad news, the advert clearly states in more than one area COPPER pipe.  It is not copper, it is in fact steel plated with copper.  It is highly magnetic (last time I looked copper was non ferrous), it is not copper nickel alloy either as I also did a salt spray test, and it rusts like hell (copper nickel alloy can be magnetic but at 90% copper and 10% nickel not very much at all).  Compliant has been raised let's see how it goes ;).  Good news a quick internet search revealed Halfords of all places sells the pukka stuff and is only 11 squid for 25ft (who would of guessed) and its not magnetic at all.

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So on with the job, as previously stated only some sections needed to be replaced (don't go there).  The main front to back pipe which links the two, 3T and 4T pieces and the rear 3T pipe to the off side wheel.

The 3T at the back was a real pain in the butt, until I realised that if you unbolt it from the car you get much better access to the nuts.

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Some sections were very good for 47 years old and some bits were not, but only need one bit on a single system like these.

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I deleted the union which goes in the middle of the front to back pipe (bugger there goes the originality thing), the only need for this was that the original pipes were steel and could not be routed without it.IMG_2474-1.jpg.b35ef74970ac53e6f0b3316fa3de3e50.jpg

Also added proper clipping as the standard triumph bit at the back is honestly sh*t

 

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Also I don't like pipes or cables running through holes with protection (we all need protection ;)

Filled her up and bleed her with the help of not very understanding wife (moan moan moan).  I couldn't understand why the fluid was not going down in the master and non coming out the bleed at the first one (off side rear)  then found the wife was using the clutch pedal, you couldn't make it up.

IMG_2475-1.jpg.5008eaa08521128bf29e8a89cc77b84a.jpg

  Cheers everyone have a great evening and thanks for the suggestion to do it my self (keep me out of mischief for a while).

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