DanielH Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 Hi there, long time lurker here...I found this forum really helpful sofar, so i decided i would ask you guys to guide me during my first engine rebuild. So I am planning to post the various project stages here and I hope you could help me out with your informed crowd wisdom 😉 I am not new to mechanical work on pre-70ies Jaguars and Triumphs, but this my first engine rebuild. Engine number is KD56475 E Current stage is: engine returned from machinist. So, I am looking forward your input! thanks Dan  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 ask away we aim to help and whilst the car may not drift the subject probably will youre a long way away from us lot so big yes  let us know how you get on Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 16 hours ago, DanielH said: Current stage is: engine returned from machinist. Hi Dan Presumably as you have passed the machinist stage, various decisions have already been made, ie crank regrind, new pistons and rebore etc. Is your objective to rebuild as standard or do you have aspirations to take it further and pep things up a bit. I rebuilt my Mk2 engine in 2010/11 and would be happy to share the spec with you if it would help. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted April 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 Hello, I just want a standard rebuild, without frills. Cylinder bores The cylinders have been bored to match +0.020 oversize pistons. I purchased the "county" pistons from rimmerbr0s: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-149976020COUNTY I was unable to find information about the manufacturer etc. Rimmer wrote: "This is the Hepolite page, our CP800 is a reverse engineering 19270. The spec would be 020 on top of this.  The piston to bore clearance on this piston is 0.002-0.00252" Main bearings All the journals were in spec but some showed marks like this one: see attached. Grinded to fit +0.010 oversize bearings from Glyco: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-144194010 Big end bearings Grinded to fit +0.010 oversize bearings from Glyco: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RTC1751010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted April 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 Hi there, the machinist has reported back, that _none_ of new big end bearing shells line up properly: see attached fotos. I've contacted Rimmerbr0s to hear what they have to say about that issue... Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 Daniel, doesn't look correct to me! I think my builder used King tri metal shells. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 (edited) Apologies! Checking reveals that the tabs on the shells should be on the same side. However, those shells should align at the edges. Incorrect shells for that con rod assembly I would suggest. Edited April 3, 2022 by Wagger Error in original answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 50 minutes ago, Wagger said: The recessed bits on the shells should not both be on the same side of the assembly. I'm not entirely sure you mean what I think you mean but if you do you are mistaken. The notch on one corner of the shell is there to prevent them rotating and both notches MUST be on the same end for them to work. I had a Herald where some DPO had assembled one of the big end caps the wrong way round (so the notches were not on the same end) and two things happen - first, the engine won't turn because the conrods are line bored in assembled condition and may not be perfectly circular if assembled wrong, and second, the bearings then spin and get flattened. The assembled condition shown in the photo is correct (other than the bearings not sitting straight) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 Just now, NonMember said: I'm not entirely sure you mean what I think you mean but if you do you are mistaken. The notch on one corner of the shell is there to prevent them rotating and both notches MUST be on the same end for them to work. I had a Herald where some DPO had assembled one of the big end caps the wrong way round (so the notches were not on the same end) and two things happen - first, the engine won't turn because the conrods are line bored in assembled condition and may not be perfectly circular if assembled wrong, and second, the bearings then spin and get flattened. The assembled condition shown in the photo is correct (other than the bearings not sitting straight) You are correct Rob. Just checked the diagrams and edited my post. Memory is not to be relied upon, Again! This assembly may not be tightened fully, or these shells are wrong or poorly manufactured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted April 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2022 While we are waiting for Rimmerbros' reaction, we can have a look at the boxes of the shells: Â Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 4, 2022 Report Share Posted April 4, 2022 They look to be the right items as according to the Glyco catalogue the same bearings are used in the 4 and 6 cylinder cars... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5, 2022 Report Share Posted April 5, 2022 On 03/04/2022 at 16:22, DanielH said: none_ of new big end bearing shells line up properly: seen this when the bearing caps have been 180 deg out of match /all mixed up Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted April 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2022 Hi there, I had a closer look at the shells over the weekend... The caps and rods are not mixed up, they all have figures (1-6) which line up properly. I guess the problem is with the shells: I placed them on a flat surface (mirror) and noticed, that some of them are bent: see foto below. The old shells are perfectly flat at the edges: see foto below. Some shells are only slightly bent, i.e. when I screw caps and rods together, I am able to correct the misalignment by providing a bit lateral pressure until the bolts are fully fastened. I am now returning the set of shells to Rimmerbros and get a different one from somewhere else. Any recommendations for a good source? thank you 🙂 Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firefly Posted April 11, 2022 Report Share Posted April 11, 2022 Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â CHRIS WITOR.COM.........he only sells quality parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted April 11, 2022 Report Share Posted April 11, 2022 I know that this sounds a tedious process, because it means checking all con rods and dismantling again, but fit each con rod and new shells on the crank without fitting the piston. Tighten the bolts and check that it is free but has minimal 'Play'. I used to do this with motor cycles and it was known as 'Selective assembly' to get best match. You will then kno if it is going to work when assembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 11, 2022 Report Share Posted April 11, 2022 begin to wonder it these bent shells have been out misfitted and returned and re sold its a unusual fault from any of the makers Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted April 11, 2022 Report Share Posted April 11, 2022 49 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: begin to wonder it these bent shells have been out misfitted and returned and re sold its a unusual fault from any of the makers Pete Yes Pete. There are marks on the running surfaces if the photos are of the actual shells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 11, 2022 Report Share Posted April 11, 2022 I think the top photo is the new shells and the bottom the old. Its very strange and I wonder if the steel backing has distorted from the heat during the white metal laying stage... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted April 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2022 Quote Yes Pete. There are marks on the running surfaces if the photos are of the actual shells. oh sorry, I should have mentioned, that the bottom picture shows the old shells as comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted April 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2022 Just ordered a new set of shells at https://www.chriswitor.com/. Thanks for the hint!  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted April 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 Hi there, the new bearing shells have just arrived: cr 625cp 010 from King (made in Israel). I checked them on a glas table for distortions: see attached. They look good! I am going to resume in the next few weeks. thanks 🙂   Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted April 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 Hi again: what special tools do I need for my engine rebuild, which I could order beforehand? My inventory sofar: Digital caliper: measuring range: 0 to 150 mm, Measuring accuracy: 0.01 mm. Micrometer div. sizes, accuracy:  0.01mm. torque wrench I guess I need at least plastigauge. To fit the bearings in the small end I need a tool, right? Which oil or lube, a can or rather something else? thanks 🙂 Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 tool for fitting small ends is normally a bucket of hot water to heat the piston and some decent circlip pliers Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 I would get the machine shop to fit the small ends in the rods, they will need reaming to fit I would also get them to do the measuring as they will have high quality tools. I would use an assembly paste, but not in the cylinders (I used penrite engine assembly lube) and any oil can filled with engine oil for bores. If you need to time the cam I would have 2 dial gauges, you will need a set of feeler gauges and a piston ring compressor and lots of pipe cleaners and other cleaning kit if you don't get the engine dipped as cleanliness is important Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 WSM says remove circlips in the pistons and put , push out with fingers in a bucket of hot water if the gudeon pin is tight  good enough for triumph Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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