DanMi Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 P 48 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: WSM says remove circlips in the pistons and put , push out with fingers in a bucket of hot water if the gudeon pin is tight good enough for triumph Pete That is to put the gudgeon pins into the piston/small end not the small end bush into the con-rod heating the piston for that would not help as not involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 Might one add valve spring compressor? Not sure it counts as 'special tool' but possibly weighing scales with a fine resolution (<1g) if you're particular about weighing the pistons and con rods and pairing them up by weight. Are the valve guides being removed/replaced? If so, worth considering what might be required in that respect (opinions vary, so I'll duck the specifics on that one). Materials, if not already to hand: Gasket maker (e.g Wynn's, V.Reinz) 200ml should do it: Copperslip for where it is appropriate (and not where it isn't!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 Hi there, while I am waiting for royalmail to resume export service, I am working on the engine. Apart from the engine stand and the black varnish, no progress was made. The head was cleaned, no varnish yet, No cracks are visible. The valve seats have pits: In terms of parts, currently I've got this: big end pistons 1 149976020COUNTY PISTON SET +20 FLAT TOP main bearing shells Small End Bush Kit - 6 - 119813K6 Timing Chain (single roller) - 105131 + tensioner Big End Bearing Set - Oversize +0.010 - RTC1751010 - OEM - Glyco Main Bearing Set - Oversize +0.010 - Glacier - RTC1752010 NO new oilpump head: nothing I guess I want to assemble the big end first, and get the head prepared in parallel. Apart from cleaning the block, what should I do next? big end? install the main shells + crankshaft, measure the play/clearances order a new oil pump?? check the connecting rods, bring to the same weight? ?? head? get new valve seats? inlet and outlet? order valve guides, valves etc? As you see, I've got no plan yet...any recommendations are wellcome 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted January 21, 2023 Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 As you have had the cylinders re-bored, obviously, you are fitting oversize pistons. The ones pictured do not look new. Maybe they have been laying around a while. Have you checked the ring gaps when placed in the bores, parallel to the top face? In new bores, flush with the top is ok. If these gaps are too small, then you risk the rings scraping the bores when hot, and fracturing. You have fitted new shells, presumably you have checked each one on its journal for tight spots and play. Your valve seats need re-cutting, looking at your pictures. As that will remove any absorbed lead, probably best to have the seats changed. Also check the valve guides for wear. Fit new guides before machining the valve seats. They must be concentric. I have not read the whole thread thoroughly and do not know if you have done anything like this before, so, please forgive me if I am telling you to 'Suck eggs'. All of your efforts can be wrecked if you miss something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 Hi Mr Wagger 🙂 yeah right, the pistons on the foto are the old ones, the new ones are still in their boxes. >Your valve seats need re-cutting, looking at your pictures. As that will remove any absorbed lead, probably best to have the seats changed. Also check the valve guides for wear. Fit new guides before machining the valve seats. They must be concentric. ok, first the guides then the seats. I should get them from Chris Witor, right? thanks 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted January 21, 2023 Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 4 hours ago, DanielH said: Hi Mr Wagger 🙂 yeah right, the pistons on the foto are the old ones, the new ones are still in their boxes. >Your valve seats need re-cutting, looking at your pictures. As that will remove any absorbed lead, probably best to have the seats changed. Also check the valve guides for wear. Fit new guides before machining the valve seats. They must be concentric. ok, first the guides then the seats. I should get them from Chris Witor, right? thanks 🙂 May be better to have that done by a head specialist. I had access to factory machinery for that sort of work on motorcycle alloy heads until 1990. It is a while since I tackled that sort of work. Some had alloy heads with inserts requiring warming the head and putting the seats in Liquid Nitrogen to cool them. Others on this forum may have more recent experience with iron heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 22, 2023 Report Share Posted January 22, 2023 You can check the tolerances on the existing oil pump quite easily then if outside the limits change just some of the components or the complete thing. However there has been a problem where the clearances of some of the new replacements are still not good enough so I believe specialists like Witor offer, at a premium, to supply correct pumps.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2023 Evening all, while I am still waiting for the Royal Mail to sort out their export service interruption, I had a look at my rocker shaft, that shows wear marks like this: I guess my rocker shaft is toast, as well, isn't it? Do you have recommendations for good replacements? thank you 🙂 Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 Hi there, had a look at the oil pump today. The endplate looks ok, very few marks: Took the 3 measurements per the handbook (in mm): 1) clearance inner rotor <-> outer rotor: 0.25-0.30 (should be < 0.254) 2) clearance other rotor <-> body: < 0.20 (should be < 0,254) 3) clearance inner rotor <-> end plate: 0.20 (should be < 0.102) Soooo, it appears that this oil pump is worn out. Question: is the quality of the oil pumps from the "usual suspects" good enough? thanks 🙂 Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 Somebody here mentioned a premium product: https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=217488RP Is this your recommendation? thanks 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted January 28, 2023 Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 I would phone Chris Witor to make sure you get the correct parts and providing he sells both get the shaft and oil pump from him. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 28, 2023 Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 yes the pump is a bit more expensive but guaranteed to be within tolerance. This may now no longer be a problem with these pumps so you could speak to other cheaper suppliers to see if they can do the same guarantee? The new pump will have an alloy body and will probably be longer than yours so giving a greater output plus the strainer is incorporated into the suction tube and you may have to ditch/modify the grill that your sump has across it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 ok, just ordered the bush+pump from Chris. There goes the money.. 🤑 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted January 31, 2023 Report Share Posted January 31, 2023 You will notice the difference in pressure. My blueprinted oil pump is 80-90psi when cold and 65-70 when hot at around 3000rpm and never less than about 30 at tick over. For the price an excellent purchase! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 31, 2023 Report Share Posted January 31, 2023 23 minutes ago, Iain T said: My blueprinted oil pump is 80-90psi when cold and 65-70 when hot at around 3000rpm and never less than about 30 at tick over. That sounds like what I get from my GT6, using a pump that I "toleranced" (certainly can't claim blueprinted) myself some 30 years (and several RBRRs) ago. Of course, the NOS crankshaft I fitted at the time also helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 31, 2023 Report Share Posted January 31, 2023 dont forget the PRV controls the pump output more than the pump itself Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 31, 2023 Report Share Posted January 31, 2023 but at low revs when hot the PRV does nothing as it should be fully closed and system pressure is just down to the tolerances of pump and bearings. Its why in the worst cases the oil pressure light can flicker on at tick over☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted February 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2023 Evening, I was checking my crankshaft before fitting it again. Which of these grooves are from the front oil seal? Can I tolerate that or should I sand them out? Then I noticed these wear marks on the timing chain gear: Is that ok? Or should I replace that? Thanks 🙂 Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted February 4, 2023 Report Share Posted February 4, 2023 18 minutes ago, DanielH said: Evening, I was checking my crankshaft before fitting it again. Which of these grooves are from the front oil seal? Can I tolerate that or should I sand them out? Then I noticed these wear marks on the timing chain gear: Is that ok? Or should I replace that? Thanks 🙂 Daniel "Sand them out?" Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh! Don't! That groove is far too deep! Remove enough metal to remove the groove and it will NEVER seal! Two solutions, a SpeediSleeve from SKF: SKF Speedi-Sleeve | SKF or another, better collar for the crankshaft. I think this is a six cylinder? Canley's will sell you one for £12, or else I have a few, none of which are as worn as that! The wear marks on the timing chain drive sprocket look near catastrophic! That's not wear, that's fractures! The old chain , or else the tensioner, must have been very loose, flogging the teeth as it lashed! Again Canley's can sell you one. or if I have one it will be in better condition than that! PM me if you would like me to search my store! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 4, 2023 Report Share Posted February 4, 2023 I reckon both those grooves are from the oil seal because the sleeve was first used with the shamfer at the front and then because it was so worn a PO installed it the other way round. It looks as if it could continue to be used as its shown in the photo and thats actually the same way the manual indicates. However they are available new and any wear does mean theres more chance of the front seal leaking... As John says the sprocket looks pretty worn and it would be best to replace both of the sprockets and chain together. I would guess this engine has done some miles🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 5, 2023 Report Share Posted February 5, 2023 Crankshaft, Flywheel, Connecting Rod, Piston : Canley Classics canley available to order 133235 £12.16 Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ch.All.ch Posted February 5, 2023 Report Share Posted February 5, 2023 Hallo Daniel. Have you tried contacting Christoph Maus in 31675 Bückenburg.De. www.spitfirescheune.de Christoph is very helpful and GT6 experience.Tel:0049 5722 288 7980. Cheers Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted February 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2023 Evening, checked the main bearing clearance and end float today. Cleaned the surfaces, inserted the new main bearings, and 2 STD-size thrust washers, new main bearings and tightened the main bolts to spec. End float was: 0,2mm (spec: 0,157-0,203mm) Replaced them with a STD (0,09") and +5 (=0,095") thou thrust washer, which yielded this end float: 0,08mm Reduced the thickness slightly and achived an endplay of 0,160mm Resumed to check the bearing clearance. Removed the bearing caps and inserted plastigauge and tightened the bearing caps down to spec. Resulting widths were ranging between 2.0 and 2.5thou, which is in spec. If you guys won't come up with objections I'll get some proper assembly lube (was using WD40 for this task) and do the final assembly of the crankshaft. Greetings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 5, 2023 Report Share Posted February 5, 2023 yes wd40 is cats pee youre right to get some assembly or engine oil in there for the last assembly Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 5, 2023 Report Share Posted February 5, 2023 Yes and you can always power up the oil pump with an electric drill when everything is assembled to ensure oil gets everywhere before starting up for the first time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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