Nick Jones

That's not right Pete. There are three types. Early 16P, later 16PB with revised dust cover design, both of these being imperial and both having the larger pad pins. The M16 is the final version and is similar to the 16PB apart from smaller pins and metric threads. These need the shouldered fixing bolts. My '72 GT6 with roto has M16 callipers. As documented in another thread I've had issues with repro callipers. Whether they are the same from all sources, I don't know Nick

Every backplate I've ever seen (a good number) has those dimples for the handbrake lever pivot are you really saying it's wear and not a design feature......? Nick

That's a good shout. My PI distributor did that sometimes, then randomly released itself, though that mainly showed up as a very variable idle, which got blamed on the throttle bodies and crappy linkages for a long time. It was only when it was struggling to start (wanted to run backwards) and the timing gun showed 30 degrees btdc at idle the penny dropped. Nick

Never seen ignition advance due to points wear. The heel always wears down faster than the contacts, closing the gap and retarding the timing. Struggle to think of anything that would cause the timing to advance...... Nick

My own view is that the gearbox stamps are more or less irrelevant these days. This because these boxes are fairly fragile and most have been rebuilt at least once, probably several times. As the basic casing is the same for any 4 synchro, 3 rail box, 4 cyl as well as 6, all it tells you is what car the casing started off in. Nick

Benefit. No question. We've also fitted a Huco pump in the boot under the tank (impact switch from Peugeot 106) to eliminate the mechanical pump as a cavitation-prone hot-spot. Nick

You'll always get a bit of leakage past the rings. If the compression is the same as the others, loss of compression is not the reason for not firing (anything over about 50 psi will fire) and the oily looking plug is more likely the result of not firing than the cause. Worth whipping the rocker box off and checking that the valves are moving about the same amount on no 6 as the others. Very little lift on the exhaust valve (due to worn cam lobe) won't prevent a decent compression reading but will prevent that cylinder breathing. Other than that, does no.6 plug get wet with fuel? Have you tried swapping plugs between cylinders or at least a different plug in 6? Nick

Don't use brake fluid. Engine oil, or 3 in one should be fine.

^^Whs. I think there are two dowels; the long one at the top which also locates the gearbox bell housing and another one lower down. Nick

1200 and 12/50 seats are quite different from Vitesse 2L and 13/60 seats. There are apparently differences between 13/60 seats, Vitesse 2L seats and Vitesse Mk2 seats though I don't find them very obvious. Before I fitted MGF seats I was told that I had one 13/60 seat and one Vitesse 2L seat. They seemed like a pretty good match to me..... Maybe the frames are the same under all of them..... thought I suspect not the 1200/12/50. Nick

Sadly not. All 3-rail mainshaft tips are the small ones. You have to go to the single rail for the bigger tip, which is inconveniently 1" longer - or get the improved aftermarket mainshaft with the big tip and open out the bearing bore in the input shaft. Possibly correct about the gear helix angles, don't know when that changed. It's still considered the best of the 3 rail close-ratio boxes, though the only real difference is the J-type OD. Nick

I think you will be able to do this as it's only a bit splined. Pretty sure I've done this in the past to adjust the amount of engagement between the pin and gear. Nick

Quality......... low quality..... Nick

Most likely an early Dolomite 1850 'box. Direct swap once the bell housing has been changed for a GT6 one. The stamped letters may not mean a lot as most boxes have been rebuilt a number of times by now and parts get mixed. Nick

I think that was what I was trying to say earlier? I have a GT6 box to investigate soon...... bound to be ugly in there - they nearly always are, and the input shaft is a bit floppy..... We also have RX8 and Mk2 MX5 gearboxes sat here (MX5 one cost £ 10!) but they really don't look like they want to go in - and that's coming from someone who squeezed a W58 5 speed into a Vitesse....... I do have another W58 but it's my pension! Nick

Huh.... and there was I thinking that Mike had a single rail matching his 1500...... (J-type helping cement that impression). Always read the OP properly...... Nick

I have that T-shirt too! It does seem to happen less these days though. Nick

Some relevant pics on page 10 of this thread http://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=32879&sid=0d429752fb4dd16ae33d3a6e9c2eb822&start=135 ...... which appear to show that at least some boxes have a different arrangement for the reverse gear fulcrum pin......? It is an 1850 box, but they are pretty similar apart from gear ratios..... Nick

Looks better in the second....... could maybe even stand to come over a bit more? Does it make any difference to the original problem though? Funny thing.... the PC will play your clip, but sound only - no pictures..... Useless..... Nick

They are what the (missing in this pic) pad plates attach to Nick

Can't make the video work...... may be an iPad thing..... will try PC later. If you just wanted to move the lever along the fulcrum pin then you could probably undo the nut on the outside, give the end of the stud a tap to release it from the taper splines and twiddle it to screw the lever inwards or outwards. Not sure this helps the problem though? Have you been able to speak to the box builder about it yet? Nick

Thanks Doug. Bit less fabulous 11 years on (eek!) but still presentable. The carpet cloth was a lucky find at the Bristol Classic car show and not cheap, but has proved much more UV resistant that the stuff I had before it which went pink and disintegrated. colours other than black or grey always seem much harder to find. Nick

Design with emphasis in quite running and oil control....... but high friction (oil control rings are the worst for friction) and not strong. If building an engine with an eye to performance you'll do much better with a set or modern County pistons. Nick

Original Mk2 GT6 cam (same profile on Mk2 Vitesse and PI saloons up to '73-ish as well as Mk3 Spit) is an excellent all-rounder and not the main limiting factor in the engine. CW also does a version with a bit more lift on the inlet side that seems highly regarded. Another possibility would be the Newman PH1 which has slightly shorter timing but more lift. Nick

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/manifold-inlet-cross-over-tt10549.html It's for the 1300 & 1500 engines as used in Spitfire, Dolomite and later Triumph-engined Midget. Still available new as you can see from the link. Nick