Pete Lewis

yes think i echo colins thoughts, and were the throttles open , any restriction will reduce the readings , especially hand cranking, if the front carb was shut then you get low reading if the carbs are off , well more shreaded wheat may help !!! Pete

Clive have a good trip Pete

Paul thanks for that pete

if we are at a club sponsored event then we(area's) are covered by the clubs commercial policy, that dosnt cover what we are after but i suppose if anything gets nicked we have to organise it to be at duxford Ha ! More calls tomorrow. Pete

its basically a hard fixing so std torque values should be fine , unless they are marked up as high tensile bolts whats the letter on the bolt head is there a r, s, t , or v but std 5/16unf 18-21 HT add 4 lbft std 3/8"unf 26-31 HT add 5 lbft Pete

Richard the front mounting plate has a high initial assemble torque because you should have a wedgelock bolt fitted this has a tapered shank at around 7/16" and a thread of 3/8" as the hole in the plate is oversized , you jam the taper into the plate once its been fitted the jam effect is less so the torque is reduced 132856 must have thin internal star washer fitted a std bolt will be a right sloppy fit , if they come out makes a wonderful racket and locks the prop up . so needs to be correct in general any 3/8unf hard fixing will be around 26-31 lbft any 5/16 unf hard fix will be 18-21 lbft the front mount studs are correct at 26-28 lbft just a little lower than if it was a proper bolt pete

as a active area in herts and beds we have over the years collected bought or aquired a lot of quite expensive equipment like high quality gazebo's generators , flags ,bunting, tables , stoves ,cookers , kettles , cables and much more suddenly had a thought if this all went walkies we are left unable to support events and left destitute (well you know what i mean) its currently stored at two members houses but collected together at events like duxford, so anyone insured their clubs stash of stuff , I know my house contents covers away from home but its technically not my gear. to kick off some ideas i have spoken to HQ , and asked stewart miller( house contents ) for clues ( as i'm with PJ) pete

can you load a picture ??

if you happen find holes under the O Spray i used a marine epoxy on door skin repairs and its water proof wont bubble up with water or rust and tough as old nick , far better than P38 type fillers , if things need some tidying up. Pete

canley classics, mick dolphin, james paddock , td fitchetts , dont forget club shop, and so on. ....many have their own preference base on service etc. realy its search around , get the car valuation from the club as soon as its in condition is getting ready . often the value is far more than you think Pete

was yours orig with strombergs or have they been fitted to replace the solex 's mine Vit6 was a rod throttle which was simply converted to raise a lever on the rear carb when we converted her. if you have a cable throttle it could be from much later and made to suit sorry dont have a photo of the cable or rod set up Pete

copied from Rimmers this is the OE style long.... as it goes through double skin Pete

ive used a G3 rubbing compound , its not too aggressive maybe use a mop on drill ?? even a wipe with thinners can remove soft , its much dependant on whats under the over spray another idea take car to a paint factors get it scanned and make up a matched aerosol and re blow over the mismatch club shop can get paint match from scanning but need a small part to send to the paint shop, Pete

If its the corner trims rimmer bros stock them 706161/2 Pete

That was quick And yes just below the air box, a good upgrade saves fighting to get a universal wibble wobble ring on the back of the slave Pete

there s few Tee shirts for bracketry swapping pete

Paul your support brackets are incorrectly fitted the brake has the reinforced spreader , as more pedal loads the clutch has the simple bracket yours are swapped about Pete

yes it does Ha !

Talking to Ashley yesterday and he had used silicon in his cars for many many years , he decided to strip one down and found wheel cylinders and master cly to look good as new , clean shiny , after 30, years no corrosion and no black gunge from dgraded rubber If that helps Mentioned before but theres some sound advice on many things on , but look up fluid choice http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

Do you know if this is a repro valence, as some dont get the overider holes sized correctly But in general I would expect valence bonnet then overrider Pete

yes just turn up dont need to have a car or be a member... but .you may have to buy the drinks till you join Ha ! I have never been to an essex meet so cant advise but were all in this for the loves and hates of classic motoring. http://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/index.asp this is same link as top of the page tabs this is the link down the lh side menu from the web home page to join up http://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/membership.asp youve seen the area directory it down the same lh menu choices cant make it any easier Pete

Simpluze, top of page click tssc website tab Scroll down to click membership in the left column, all the costs are there And when you do get a car having club backed valuation is pretty important ,if ever should a claim need back up So get to your local meet have a natter see if its what you want and join up if you lkie it. Pete

You will see Bern has managed to fit and advert for this in this months Courier Pete

sometimes the help departs to some very odd places , but this is the place to get help from the dark ravages of experience and friendly banter you dont need to have a car to join the club do it with a DD and save £5 nice magazine every month , and no i dont get commision Pete

is this near http://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/areas_final.asp?area_ID=84&area=Eastern, Essex