Pete Lewis

You can if you want to, fit new bridge and wooden wedges with engine in car with just sump off most bridge thread failures are down to too long bolts bottomed out or simple over tightening pete

yes the stop is the back of the spherical housing nut/ collar abuting the rack tube tape measure the rods to make sure they are the same lengths from the manual between the tre and inner spherical centres is 8.715" both sides back stop to inner spherical centre is 1.42" back stop to tube end is 3.325"

With the wheels ahead Both rods must be the same length from the TRE centre to the centre of the gaitor covered spherical easy to pop a TRE off the steering arm, undo nutq a good few turns and witha decent hammer strike the arm on its end , yes clout the hole not the tre.and thentape jumps out. I agree with colin we all try to answer but we do have a life as well. so slow down , solutions will arrive , maybe when the suns gone down let us know how you get on

D Type Speedo Pinion 16 Tooth to fit Triumph D Type Overdrive Part No.: 17H8021 Weight: 60 g Price: £24.00 this is on overdrive repairs site 15 or 16 , its time to look see what you have as the clues are all varied. Pete

was going to say those are j types on trucks we had a wild variety of pinions housed in an eccentric housing so you could rotate the hsg to suit the pinion diameter all with the same worm........if only from distant memory d type worm is a 5 start dont hold me to that ring dave twigger at odspares

D type only shows as 16T pinion if it was J type then there are 17/18/19/20 available.....sorry not much help Pete

the best diy way to get your TPM is mark 52.8ft down the road stick a card needle on the now detatched inner cable drive car accurately the exact lenght of the test track you measured out. count the number of turns of the card needle multiply the turns by 100 thats the tpm you are looking for. if the oddometer is that far out whats the speed reading , can you check it against a sat nav ?? whilst the drive to the oddometer rolls is seperate from the speed needle its all driven from the cable if one is wrong then both should be wrong having said that if the speed reading is good it may be the small pawl and ratchet on the oddo drive is stiff with age a dash of lube on the lever that prods the pawl can be stiff /tired seized its held on with a small sprung clip so easy to pop it off or just apply some lite oil/grease

many have been in the got the tee shirt mode for the what have i got nothing makes sense ignition circuitry headache Im sure now its all sorted it will be fine and no more points gaps to have to set any more. Pete

thats good, Im a fond believer in bin the whole ballast idea and stick to what god gave it and remove any myths about what the hecks fitted , in general a 12v sysytem uses a 3 ohm coil, anything less increases the current used and is likely to burn points melt electronics and more, add in some coils are 6v 1.5 ohms but marked up as the base ignition of 12v sometimes labeled as 12v ballasted or ...not its was an idea to boost ign when the poor old battery and cranking in poor conditions drops the coil voltage the ballast idea giving a 6v coil a 12v feed was to compensate the drop,and aid cold starting !!! ive never had a car not start in over 50years of motoring , now i need a boost ha !

not original but there simple toggle switches about with a long lever some even light up ...so you know if in or out mount them under the dash on a support more original .......... cowls are about , cant remember where i got mine from , file went with the car and so did the memory ha ! rimers show https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-611974 https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-147280

Yes we fitted a column switch into a new column cowling. The long stalk lucas switch can be silly money.. just run the wires to where ever the relay is fitted. if you rewire the gear lever use silicon wire its more flexible and takes the heat (try maplins or others) If youre getting shocks the wiring has broken , I would sort that before you do any other work.

Likely the top shocker bush is worn off centre If the cup washers and stepped bush wear one sided the shocker shaft squeaks on the turret hole can take ages to track it down got that tee shirt.

Trust you !!! Pete

you need the ground the points wire to get the dropped voltage so the coil primery is 'loaded' or you get battery volts showing the ballast murky white and dull pink normally start from a 2" white pigtail off the ignition switch and then dive off into the loom. pete

Clearhooter , reminds me of some testing we did back in the 70s between clearhooter and lucas park trucks many metres away and sound horns , on the basis we couldnt hear either we bought the cheapest, cant remember who, s we used now, pete

Leaving out the less obvious is always a good surprise , we all learn from the errors of our ways keep at it all will come good.......one day the top valve plug is easy , maybe over tighend, , with care to catch remove the ball and spring as you lift the cap then just pull the little spool up and give it a prod with some old fuse wire or a good blow to check its hole down the centre is clear add it to the to do list .

Add heater motors and electric fans can also do this , pete

If tunnel is still off remove the cover in front of the solenoid, inside is a small lever pulled by the sol. in the lever isna 3/16" hole, when sol. Is engaged the hole in the lever aligns with a similar hole in the main case, use drill as a alignment checking bar. solenoids have two coils the pull in takes about 10amps , when in theres a switch in end of the sol. Which Engages thebbolding coil at 0.5amps some switches can be checkec and cleaned some are solid state and not diy accessible if you take the sol. Off refit with allen ken socket cap screws make future removal easy make sure the sol. Core oslides easy and check the small hole in the top spool valve that debris is from wear and tear but may be from many years of never been cleaned dont read too much into whats been found until after all pther checks

Yes it dosnt matter which end of the yellow white the balast joins in the result is the same

With a simple meter measure the coil primery should be 3 ohm for 12v and 1.5 if ballasted. to measure the coil feed voltage you need the points closed as there is no external ceramic ballast then check the coil positive if its a dropper the wire is normally a dull whote witha pink trace its looking from your pic to not have these. The missing yellow white feed from the solenoid also makes this un balasted its would be unlikely to start if it was ballasted and this link is missing. well something like that Pete

There are few realy interchangable parts, the gears ,mainshaft ,1/2hubs reverse idler , layshaft cluster forks , and more all very different , A 2ltr or any 4 synchro box with the 6 cyl input shaft is a straight swap pete

Many up the ratio, its a compromise and can be a cheaper simpler option try a 3.63 :1 its a reasonably easy change , dont go too high a 3.27 doesnt like too much torque and can make hill starts when fully laden a long clutch slip start , eg in saloon 4 up and boot full . due to poor triumph gearbox ratio's 3rd OD and 4th are identical so all you gain in a split shift in 3rd is the speed of change under power, when overtaking etc. Can give you a buzz. Pete

Any blast medium will likely destroy the foil , the tubes are quite strong but the cross foils with age can be very fragile you can get ( or adapt ) a fin combe to straighten any distorted foils I would tread careful with this idea. a coat of paint may be thought to reduce cooling but it is important the foils are pretected from the ravages of corrosion from salt and driven rain

Other than the bendix is sticking or the spring is broken theres an obscure one is the correct flywheel ring gear as a pull bendix drive will have ring gear teeth chamfered at the back where as a pre engaged push pinion will have the chamfer on the front if its wrong damage soon arrives pete

Spook's Dick...... now thats eerie Do we need ghost busters pete