Pete Lewis

its seems its no8x32 unf Pete

You should only use ptfe tape around the olive and its pipe, make sure the pipe end is kept clear . the threads on the nut have nothing to do with the sealing, it just clamps the olive onto the pipe, the seal is the olive against the pump body so does the pipe protrude a little beyond the olive ? Is the olive distorted by overtightening over the years suprised a 13/60has an olive, as Colin suggests a flare pipe is more normal pete

Stuart, with a full strip down ( Grrr) with the trunnion off and clamped in a vice you should be able to replicate the slack on the upright and see clearly where its coming from the trunnion should be a nice fit not slack let me know if you want help Pete

the nuts should screw down to a shoulder on the shaft this controls the squash on the rubbers hold the square on the shaft to enable tighten down the nut ,, all it needs is a good hand spanner tighten up then add the lock nut there is no torque figure given in the wsm. Pete

Was the wobble from the thread clearance or the trunnion bushes or loose through bolts there is a designed clearance as it must have to be able to rotate I would not expect obvious slack , you are a extended distance away from the trunion Which magnifies clearances it doesnt sound too good, a good look look see might be advisable pete

tkc1155 std 1500 spitty unleaded insert head tkc 3239 is spitty low compresion for california with UL inserts guess this is been skimmed to make a 1155 ??? Pete

think youre about to find out, sorry never stripped one only fought to get them up or down if its vinyl hood its most likely shrunk and wont fit anymore, if you need a replacement the mohair are a more expensive but much longer lasting hood Pete

if the glass was inside the roof you cant open the doors clever anti theft of sorts and saves fuel as you cant get in Ha ! the roof gutters vary a lot from the various suppliers some have a good well defined stitched on gutter trim some have a appalling shallow and useless , have a look around at shows its a minefield of who's make is best the 'convertible' designs of the day were just a rain cover , not like a modern which guys expect to be water tight pete

sounds a good idea , dont know how those products stand up to a leaky tank drain plug or any fuel spill episodes.

Thank heavens for that pleased its running pete

Colin, his floggle toggle had fell of his whim wham Froc, do check the base clamp may be different diameter to clamp the body there's two sizes of clamp so it could be too small or too big and if supplied with one theres changes /evolution how the clamp is bolted to the pedestal just to make something simple a nightmare

ouch !! unusual for a lucas, delco are good are wearing out most lucas can be rebuilt DIY try the distributor doctor for spares Pete

just cake ??? whats am /lw was that for mrs dales diary and the archers

Drive gear end float can make a lot of tappety noise if its excessive, there must be some float or you sieze it theres worn dizzy spindle bushes and shaft wear due to lack of oiling does the rotor shaft wag around use a long screwdriver against the block and dizzy post and stick ear on the handle it will shownwhere the noise is eminating, dont get it in the fan , Or the HT leads one more excessive idea is the tail camshaft bearings can wear, this makes a tappet noise you cant trace,, quite common pete

Doug, Ive never thought about coil body earthing the6/12v primery earths via the points into the dizzy and the secondary ht earths via the spark leap from the spark plug . cant see there is any other requirement just a thought. pete

just looking i dont have a triumph spit !V WSM i have haynes and dont hold that as gospel because that shows the ign sw logic as term 1 white red to starter solenoid term 2 Brown feed from battery/solenoid term 3 has three whites oil psi switch/alt warning lamp and ......ceramic ballast for the coil term 4 white /pink to feed the heater fan you need to check what your white pink is doing and where its feeding , this idea it feed the heater makes no sense unless you have a seperate ceramic balllast on your pic the dull white pink definitley has the look of a resistive wire and that would be picked up from a short white pig tail on the switch term 3 let us know what colours are on your switch it also show the solenoid as having the two terminals one for white yellow and one for white red whats yours got??? Pete

Ok its got on, but you say the wire goes over the edge ???? do you mean it gets trapped under the cap ? Thats very wrong get a small bulb on a lead or a circuit test screwdriver and clip it on the leads you want to test Dull white pink comes on in normal ign on position Yellow white comes on when ignition sw is turned to starter white red comes on when ign sw is turned to starter How many small blade terminals are on the solenoid one or two ?? IE is there one for the white red and also one for the white yellow or ( edit) is this on an eyelet under the lead that goes to the starter ?

Good point Derek, in our rectification shop there were often burnt wrists and fingers from shorting out rings and braclet watch straps, and eyes from sparks off dropped tools making involuntary contact with flash bang wallop good call how about a H and S page to record all the antics of life?? pete

its unusual for a inlet seat to crack , what was the snag of sizing an insert to be fitted ?? pete

The photo, s help a little but not clear they are of what we need from the back of the ign switch its showing the dull white pink trace wire thats the ballast resistor wire this should end up breaking out the harness at /and be connected to the coil positive terminal there should also be a white yellow runs from a terminal on the solenoid and also be connected to the coil positive( some this is on the starter feed terminal some have a separate lucar blade to use for the white yellow) it must not be on the terminals with the brown wires. the white red at the sol is the feed from the ign switch to make it crank over. from the negative coil terminal there is only one wire to the dizzy points we dont have a picture of whats inside the dizzy so cant advise on how your points connect there tends to be two design a post and nut with plastic insulators the wires from coil and condenser must be under the plastic insulator not on top of it if you have the type where the coil feed and condenser are joined and simply hook in the points spring there is less to go wrong again ....getting bored now, there must be a short flexible wire that earths the moving points base plate to the outer case of the dizzy ......please check its important and you dont seem to want to confirm this we cant suggest remotely at a distance and pre guess solutions if you dont give us the clues we ask for to try to help you. using the white pink feed means you must use the 1.5 ohm ballast 6v coil ( or a coil marked 12v ballasted) to check the resistance set your meter to the small headphone ohms symbol and check across the two blade terminals Pete

Well youre going to tai one see how it goes , if you ever thought of a used there is a danger fitting used as they take on a memory torque twist, fit a lh to a rh and you try to unwind it and they start a crack which shears quite rapidly so you taiwan unit is probably a good move

Hope you meant air box not airbag their not easy to hide on a Vitesse

ive just fell off Ha ! me slippers lost grip Pete

Hi Pat I said resevations about HS6 being pretty troublesome when you bought the car, so youre looking at putting her back as triumf intended ......it works look out for a std airfilter box and some intake tubes for some cool air I use 1.5 sink waste or cheap pond pump flexible hose We have a area vitesse that has taken the same route putting the CD 150s on transformed a very unhappy car you just could not set up the 6s to work nicely pete

No idea but setting up tripples can be sleepless nights . And strong tea pete