Pete Lewis

Did you changed the middle remote bushes ??

Dave yes but its just started raining, luckily there.s wifi in the cottage and prefer reading all the troubles than watching emmerdale etc. or the news on tv in the morning is more lets argue rather than any actual facts def in holiday mode with occasional slip into reality Ha pete

Ask doug about a stuck head ,he has a big tee shirt for that one all studs were a nightmare with a 3ft breaker bar and the head was still glued solid And the studs were not the slightest corroded Is this a mk1 or mk2 engine ?? did you double check there was tappet clearance ..? always use new hard washers and heavy duty nuts , bet the old washers have deformed and this looses torqure pete pete

And were all plugs out and throttles opened ?? do you, have an engine number??

The mkIV has normally got a ballasted coil feed this is a resistance wire in the loom , its a dull white pink colour this feeds the coil and your electronice unit ,, from the ign key switch the wire drops the coil voltage to around 6 volts, its not easy to check but if you earth the coil negative then check the readings it may be the low voltage is not liked by the dizzy electronics , some wont work below 8volts there is a second wire from the starter solenoid that by passes the ballast wire when you crank the starter, this puts 12v direct to the coil to aid starting in poor battery condition. to get the car to start both these circuits need to work if you have a meter check the ohms across the coil blade terminals if its 3 ohm you need a 12v feed all the time if its 1.5 ohms it must have the dropper wire in use and make up a 12v feed for the dizzy electronics if its got a 3 ohm coil and has been ballast bypassed to 12v this is the easiest option as the dizzy electronics will have a 12v feed , not a 6 volt feed which can be too low. Not sure tbat makes any sense Pete

If you move the needle then you just adjust the jet to compensate for the change its not doing much, have you the correct jet sizes fitted ?? Pete

Gbd was re register was originally CRK 241 thats london ( croydon) april 64 spot on.and when i sold her thats where she returned ...odd that. pete

One reason why crimps are more widely recomended And that relies on you actually have the right size and crimp the wires not fresh air

https://www.flickr.com/photos/andysbusphotos/5888096063 Mine was GBD 142B a 1964 Vit6 Dont have pics on this silly tablet thing but heres alink

Do yo have the right needles fitted ?? whilst these cars are pre any real emmision controls they should not be a stinker Is it rich or unburnt fuel due to other factors ,, any misfiring ???

its often a hard scaly build up on dizzy cap contacts not normally? carbon deposits many rota are a bit of a poor fit a short bit of elec tape can stiffen up sloppy fits do make sure the sprung centre is in contact with the cap brush, theres a post about its height on here a few days back but im just of on hols for a week so tah rah Pete

jets sticking and not returning after you have used the choke, you push the control in but the jets stay 'down' test.... just push choke in and pop round the bonnet a finger the base of the jet it will pop back up if the levers are holding it open. its a pretty common SU fault Pete

Also check the withdrawl pivot pin has not dropped if you look at the clutch hsg you can see the hole the pin fits thro' drivers side about a 8mm hole witha pin sitting down inside , if its an open hole its dropped out A refurb of the hydraulics and pedal push rod pivots is a good start when bleeding the nipple must be on top and it can help remove the slave and push the piston back im as far as possible to reduce the capacity to aid bleeding, It will take a few pumps to return the cyl to meet the slave push rod pete

Brilliant, a well set up 6 is a great car , had mine for 14 years , well modified , I still miss it pete

ive never yet seen any head mk1 mk2 or whatever that doesnt have a tapping to take a std bsp plug at the back end o/s corner plug it or use it so long as you keep the bypass operational. as i see it all with the heated manifold take off the heater and bypass from the manifold three way and the head is just plugged . unless its been modified Pete

yes youre correct yellow is rich blue about right is there something on the air filters blocking the front face ports?? do a test with the filters Off. as you have swapped the carb its looking like an external problem if fuel pump psi was a problem both carbs would probably show yellow check the rocker breathers are clear. Pete

solex 1600 used the head port, had to plug it up when fitted a mk1 manifold and strombergs Pete

Brake clonks normaly due to couple of things cable over taut and holds shoes open makes adjustment ineffective trailing shoe is on upside down quite common , square hole must be at bottom just soome thoughts pete

I have an avid industry hate of scotch loks , too small cuts the wires too large makes a poor connection they make problems rather than cure them Pete

finding a spring thats not weeny and useless or one thats to butch with no extended travel so you cork the throttle and wear out the spindles is not easy happily rimmers bless em show pretty much all the parts you will have to make the extension drop down link from a wire coat hanger and they are getting rare now and find somewhere nice to hook it on push bike brake cables are much better and cheaper than throttle cables , a long ladies back brake will make two you will need a solderless nipple to replace the pear drop or whatever lead end is fitted

i agree ditch the dimmer, you can disconnect the side light link feed this stops it working, but better to connect all same coloured together dump the earth and put unit in the bin or keep for rainy day !! Pete

We did r Rays burlington with the fuel gauge wizard, thats got the normal 2" bi metal stabilised gauge but uses a ford fuel tank and sender. we tried first to capture the float readings by pulling the sender with a stiff wire hooked on the float but this didnt work ou so next was fill with jerry cans to give MT 1/4 1/2 3/4 the readings are stored by a button and blink codes then you capture the gauge reading for Mt 1/4 1/2 3/4 full this takes a while as the gauge needs to settle or you capture a wrong voltage. end result is its pretty close form being a hoplessly incompatible mix so its a good way to get things correctly calibrated it takes a little practice , if we did it again we could be even better. pete

in diff ratio talk n it would be higher,, eg 3;1 is a higher ratio than 4:1 as you have a 3.89: and a 3.63:1 you can try them all ...when the suns gone down. you will have to change the coupling flange on either the diffs or the propshaft as Im sure the 4.55 is different and also might also the drive shafts bolts Pete

what you need is a gauge wizard from https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html takes a bit of sorting to get the resistances saved but good when senders and gauges are incompatible Pete