Pete Lewis

Doug has to squeak its in his jeans .... rusty legs Pete

ask dave at canley classics , maybe mick dolphin but a part number would be nice , anyone got a parts manual

afraid its H frame and tunnel out and remove the remote assi from the top of the gearbox ive found a few where for reasons that bug me the square headed tapered dowel bolt on the front selector rod . the selector is loosish on the rod ,in as much as you can see the lever is moving on the rod. but the dowel is screwed/rammed home and is as tight as tight can be undoing the thing can reduce you to tears and a wrecked dowel bolt is a small point but this can add to any already slack in the section. i now have an avid hate of dowel bolts pete

think most club shop originate from superflex ..... chris witors side line http://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF498-0645K

do you have a parts list or part number to help trace , ?? that looks more like a subframe mount than engine mount but there s not many around we have a 1500 in the area , and that seems listed as engine mounts specific to 1500fwd i have no idea of the variance , but they are available Pete

I guess the helical fuse is an improvenet ona 6" nail !!!!! you have a real task a head, just think of the smile when it launches down the road pete

Yes bens idea undo the thottle clamp connector make sure both are closing reset with equal turns of the idle screw 1.5 turns from just touching then retighen the connecting clamp. And to add to clives thoughts rocker cover and oil filler cap gasket sealing

The kit contains a selection to suit the evolution the cup washers are often cropped with sharp edges which mince the spherical cups. there are two 0 rings these seal the remote rod in the ally hsg, best to never try to use these you need tomremove the square head dowel bolt , often fitted by a gorilla, the 0 rings sit inside the rod bore and you chop them on rebuild...leave alone . There are two types of bush, plastic top hat and spacer tube and a rubber with flat washers you need to check the bushes below the gear stick and one mid way along the remote rod Check the pivot bolt if its too long or wrong way round it will foul the casting in 3/4th amd change becomes |-) not |-| Pete

In the emmision dept we always had a pump oil can with petrol in for this, it wont fire , but the revs will increase if it sucks any in , never use brake fluid ,,,,, that will fire up from the exhaust heat pete

1st test is in 3rd or 4th move /load the gear stick sideways towards you , if things improve then the inhibitor switch on the front of the remote hsg, needs some small adjustment do that let us know pete

td fitchetts sell complete door assy at £385 ea. p no. 902256/7 see ad in courier they not shown in tdf online . whats wrong with the doors you can rebuild the bottom of the carcass quite easy and we used marine epoxy on the odd perforations in the skin with a plate behind it lasted years Pete

its supposed to be held on the back of the speedo case with a single screw if its dangling it will read full voltage as the stab. case must be earthed Pete

this was one of our chairmans own cars and had been on display for a while at HQ for the 13/60 event , i understand it is now sold and was never a club owned museum car . Pete

Dr K im no moderator but i feel you should edit the F word , its bad practice , best use something more suitable

its not easy to work out whats best , what you pay what you get and how it turns out are all a bit 'variable' as my dad said they have more reason to sell it than you have to buy it, if you spend that sort of value then a AA type inspection is probably worthwhile , Ive looked at a good few cars for members with open eye for how it looks and the basic competence of what you can view some have turned out as expected others are a long list of now whats as past poor history emerges sheeps and wolves come to mind , with these high values stick to club cars rather than cars being traded on for profit pete

RIGHT THIS IS ON. date September Sunday 17th start time 10.00am location Club HQ Lubenham LE16 9TF map https://goo.gl/maps/J6d5VebEC9C2 To get a register of potential attendee's please e mail me on peter.h.lewis@ntlworld.com I have a good few names in the frame but would you all please send a Email title Tssc Tutorial day include names if more than one please . There will be a £3.50p charge for a burger lunch and refreshments pay on the day Bern will assemble the large frame tent to seat all for a techy natter and a gazebo for some cars to diagnose and show how to resolve common problems , we aim to cover carburetor settings , tappets ,gearbox functions ,wiper racks , simple tracking, etc and any other topic we can cover with the basics as Triumph intended, we will not be restoring a 60 minute make over basket case , but a few cars with ongoing problems would be most useful there's a chance we will install electronic ignition to the club courier van this is a first, we have to make it a success a without over doing the expectations , I would like to cover many ideas raised but need to stick to reality of what can we achieve in a day so get the names in .....see you all on the 17th september dont forget to bring your car pete 01582 750943

club shop ..... TLS 33 7 alignment tool £7 ..... clutch kit HK6943 £64 members prices just a thought Pete

Hi Marus, it was a vitesse kit from a reputable supplier. It was removed and used a courier and drop plate that worked brilliantly , shes long sold now pete

Cant edit the lines on this tablet , so continue here..... Drop the screen and rubber into the apperture , with the seal sitting on the lower flange, get it held with some other pair of hands firmly against the apperture , dont let it rise gently pull the cord to lift the flip over the flange Work each way left and right , finishing at the top , to seal use a cheap black gutter sealant , press nozzle under the outer lip and fill the cavity behind the seal, better if you can fit a flattened bit of metal tube into the catridge use the same to run sealant around the glass to rubber this all cleans of neatly with white spirit insert the mylar strip or if its stainless capping you need a hook tool to open the rubber some fit the capping retainer before they refit the screen , this makes fitting harder as the caping is there to open the seal to retain it if the glass is short in the corners the rubber may need something like sw tube to pack the rubber out away from the glass to fill the corners nicely

First Check if its toughend or laminated this determines how hard you can try. toughened can be realy rough where as laminated can break easy look at the manufacturer markings on the glasss to remove release the trim stainless capping or the mylar insert. sit on seat and with both feet press the glass around the perifery , till the rubber lip lifts over the screen flange, work around the glass till its clear , then recover the legs and have a cuppa refit is best clean the rubber or use new, fif the seal to the glass, get the corners lined up soft soap the flip and use a sash cord string around the flange groove, over lap the strings along the base and tape the ends to the screen drop the screen

If the prop only gives a short nudge that eliminates lost drive due to any diff short shaft failure the idea its given some degree of attempted drive with the slave off would appear to be non conclusive this leaves the clutch has some catastrophic failure and after trying all other possible actions I feel the box has to come off its not a bad diy job given a few sockets and spanners , apart from support the engine sump on a jack and about 3 bolts underside all is done from inside the car, or under the bonnet getting the tunnel out is at times a fiddle I would remove the seats to gain space

Well 3" at 5 yds saves trying to back into the neighbours garden but it needs to be on the flat pete

Well I thought last time you said it moved when you took the slave off.??? I think its time you removed the gearbox now and see that the clutch is operational or worn out or the disc may be fractured , at risk of repeating dont think you ever checked if the propshaft is rotating /turning when in gear and idleing when you try to drive and it wont move pete

No lube , it attracts and traps the brake dust it can also migrate onto the linnings. Some coppa slip on the backplate where the cylinder slides and the handbrake lever pivots Coat the unions and bleed screw with some thick grease to prevent seizure later in life pete

you said the removal of the old slave gave you some drive,, a pain i know , but you need to repeat that test Pete