Pete Lewis

in old money aimed at the garage door from 10yds away measure the centre height of the lense and when on dip \__ cut off is 6" down from horizontal and 1" to the left of centre Pete

yes sounds about right ,, just making sure when you fitted the slave in it wasnt applying load to disengage the clutch so if you release the the slave clamp does it come back to having 'drive' same as when you removed the old one ?? this is all a bit odd you found that hole yet ?? https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-herald-13/60-gearbox look down below where bush 26 is hovering Pete

that sounds like the later 18mm dia one and should be ok to use the early ones were a skinny 1/2" dia and bent easy. many use a swinger on herald/vitesse . i tried one on My Vit6 saloon and it was disaster sat too low , no load ability , horrible roll on roundabouts and whatever you did it sat on the shocker bump rubbers so no ride quality , just became a rolling car with the ride of a skateboard others have got on ok and like them ....down to what you like pete

double echo keep smiling Pete

Ifnthe pin is missing you pump the slave to its extent and then the pedal goes hard once again pop the slave off , if it drives something in the actuation is giving you grief did the new slave fit easy or did you have to force it in place .? Look down on drivers side of the clutch housing, near to where the front of the gearbox is visible often covered in old oil and road dirt within the casting webs is a vertical drilled hole if you poke around you will find it , if a probe goes in a few mm its fine if it goes right in the pin is adrift or missing

If it has a fixed nipple at both ends you can only hang it up vertical and dribble some oil to run down the inner into the outer sheath cables can be two basic types a simple nylon tube or a wire wound with nylon tube liner the liner gets worn through and you get a notchy pedal its too late to oil it. one reason a bike brake is a better option , made to a higher standard and you can if useing a solderless clamp nipple remove the inner to service it with some grease.

Yes, but fluid if Dot4 should be changed on a regular 2 yearly service as this absorbs moisture from the vent hole in the resevoir. the drum is hard to remove because the piston is seized out wards and not returned by the shoe springs so the shoes stay appplied to the drum. the hardest job is getting the horse shoe clips that hold the cyl in the back plate back on new ones can be trash , old ones are best reused if possible, they should be a nice flat tempered clip, some aftermarket are badly formed and the overlap dimples do not locate the clips only fit one way round , the curved clip is fitted against the backplate and fed in from front to rear the larger flat clip fits over the curved one and is fed in from the rear the dimples should lock on and stop the pair seperating this may not make written sense but when youre under you will see how it works shoes ,,,,,the trailing shoe is fitted with its square hole at the bottom the leading shoe is more obvious as the handbrake lever determines the shoe orientation

John i dont think dave is into the techy side of tyres temperatures as a every day driver , more have i got a hot brake or are they about the same both sides so his old pinkies would tell cool ..........to gee whizz Ouch !! I bought a cheapy infra from one of the stores without reading the small print its fine for ears or forehead or shine at the cats bum but with no range to suit automotive !!! consigned to the back of the draw Pete

Think thats worth a try , it doenst have to be flexible, as for length bear in mind the idea of not preloading the bevel gear and the washer to space the drive or it will fail again.

Fingers always give a good clue,we have had then for years, but a hot brake disc will give you a nasty burn, not recomended without caution pete

There s the bunch of bullets where the column harnes connect to the dash harness often a contributor to disconnections . the rack earth is short wire from the rack grease plug to the chassis , and theres a wire link across the column UJ which is a common failure in the earth circuit. Using the more modern UJ upgrage works ok and dosnt realy needed the wire link

Its possible to lock up the adjusters with car siting on the road , if you can get under turn the square headed adjuster till it stop, and back it off around 4 clicks to free the wheel but its really best to lift the car to be safe on stands and then jack the upright to raise the wheel into its normal running height , this is because with the axle hanging you need the cable to be longer to connect it , then when dropped on road the cable becomes slack and you get excess handbrake lever travel and too many clicks on the handbrake ratchet.

I wonder what the engine assy did in the days of production at Triumph??? probably .... nothing Dont know about triumph but from my Rootes experience it was common practice to run engines back to back and used town gas not petrol if you got a back fire it would flatten the brass carb floats so when fueled on the assy line the first start up was ......much flooding

For build data get a certificate from https://www.britishmotormuseum.co.uk/archive/heritage-certificates On replying just go to the 'more posting options 'tab and select your photo from your file and then select ' attach this file ' tab , there is no upload limit. Pete

Diaphragms ive come across realy nice flexible and supple as they should be to some aftermarket things that seem related to a dutch cap or condom for an elephant , so stiff the piston is stuck up or down and sod all in between if its not a cross between mums marigolds and a gossamer then something is a poor copy of the originals one useful hint is if they (as they do)get all wrinkled with oil a simple wash in petrol will return the baggy wrinkles to look as good as new . sorry doug wrong forum again

the basic prop and drive shaft uj is common across the small chassis range this is where Garth would have been useful !!!!

like lots of thongs keep em shut !!!! Pete

sounds like youve been sold a 121997 sender for old moving iron gauges not the GTR108 you need for bimetal stabilised mix and match the two very different systems and you get high readings all the time ... seen one guy changed his engine on the old forum for this cock up pete

Just your legs ??? pete

No I never did close ups , and these wont be a 'seminar' more a friendly twiddle and eplaination day out to show some of the basics to those who need a little nudge to give the confidence to DIY and dispel any dark art myths If anyone finds something to record onnthe day feel free. pete

Its been said on here few times , we decided to make a start but to cover all it will take days of outakes and editing ive made a good few in house traing and information videos in the past and sorry the time it takes is not available , well not from me in fact my damped tripod is still lurking at hq somewhere from when Garth Ray and myself made a start a couple of years ago... its like setting this idea up, the best intentions get hijacked and a day on the drive now means I have to go to hq, so be it , lets see what we can achieve , but any filming can fall on someone else youtube look at RB44 production video and theres a copy of what pair of cowboys did with a camera a editing video but no TV And titles made with toy letters pulled across the floor we did this back in 1990 ish so I wont volunteer now even though you can do it on a phone now. pete

I will keep my ears open he has two cars and cant work on any I get involved and desperate to reduce the can you do this for me calls one car make a 50% improvement , its a pretty tidy car in white , certainly not rusty and brilliant chassis i will make some subtle enquires and let you know Pete

read the manual on strap drive props the spigot needs some grease and they can make wonderfull vibrations

i would stick to our club classifieds which tend to be sales of loved cars rather than trader out heaps I have a members 13/60 Conv. in pretty good condition but its down in sunny and wet bedforshire that a member will be putting up for sale any time soon, need some odd jobs but clean and pretty rust free pete

certainly needs 8 best idea is to dump it and get a proper with two UJ and telescopic Pete