had one for years , its a back up for a mitutoyo but they work fine
did you see the open ended spanners metric /AF / Star universal marked with both sizes for 4.99 I got some rfpr raffle prizes at the pub meets
just to add i bought 2 Guild units in Homebase sale clearing out argos stock i reckon but
lithium hammer drill £8 and a 18v lithium 3/8" impact driver was only £18 I should have bought the lot up.
as if i dont have enough... you cant have too many
Pete
yes fwd under the body parcel shelf end and rear is heading for the bumper.....at the back
ns is left os is right as sitting in the drivers seat
if you buy a settee the plan is viewed looking 'at it' from the front not from a seated position
my wife has reversed syndrome forwards is towards her so if you want to move some furniture you have to remember
or the chairs on your foot.
, in is out and out is in
played havoc with a clutch pedal and column gear change when tried to learn to drive .
my Mk2 is approx 13" deep at the rear 18" forward min width 47" internal width 52"
take out the floor panels and spare wheel and you gain a lot more
Pete
We have had many unwanted unprofessional events at the Crown Shillington
and have decided we have to move to avoid more frustration.
Our next meeting is February 27th will be held at The Raven PH in Hexton,
situated between Barton LeClay and Hitchin
the courier and area directory have been updated
around 8pm we alaway meet on the fourth Monday ( not the last )
There is a well lit carpark , all tarmac, and room to ourselves
meals are served on mondays so you can have a meal prior to the meet
if you want to.
pete
The oldest owned was quite modern a 53 pahes 5 Hillman Minx, in fire engine red
the oldest I have driven was the 1913 Commer Car simon fire engine
wooden wheels solid tyres and 3 speed pre select gearbox column gear change
and a glass flow oil gauge, cranking her up was challenge, it once threw me across the workshop
she was in service at Chivers jam factory till around 1959
Chrysler take over sold the family silver and she disapeared , but has been seen on london brighton runs
I drove her round the factory when I was around 19 in 1964
I have also driven the Ecurie Ecosse Transporter out of silverstone with the cars ontop before she was sold .
jus more waffle
pete
A steam lance is used in manufacturing so a it of bundy to make a lance connected to a wallpaper stripper will work well on wrinkles, poke it up under the cover
they dont like it up em !
Dont use a hot air gun,,, too hot
Pete
If you sense a noisy one use a old feeler with engine running , ifit goes quiet expect the wear to
have upset your feeler feel.
on the bright side a noisy one with a actual gap is better than a tight one without enough gap
Pete
You set a tappet to the desired gap, with feelers
Fit the click and turn it to zero the clearance and count the clicks as you turn the knob.
so next rocker fully up you turn to zero clearance and unscrew the number of counted clicks
you should end up with the previous desired feeler clearance
Well something like that
pete
my dark blue is the 2000/2500 manual and its ok in there
leon always had a plan on the old forum (dont read too much into this idea )
15 to young 36 too old 24 just right helps you remember ha !
Pete
Theres no torque given in any triumph manuals
my father in law always stripped or sheared the tappet screws on his cortina, hence the gorilla notes
only the spherical tip is hardened the threads are just normal ,
if you take a full 5/16 nut hard face fixing as 18 to 20lbft then a half nut max is 10 lbft
and possibly a bit less
pete
Dave,The nuts are only half thickness so a light nip with a normal spanner is all thats needed ,
they only have to hold the screw from being turned by action of the revolving followers and push rod
many get done up by a gorilla and then they are hard to undo , the threads get stretched and
they are stiff to adjust on the tappet screw
you need to do many many miles to see recession most wont ever find it
the wear under the rocker will give a stepped face which most feelers will bridge so checking the actual gap can be difficult, dont see them around much but a wire feeler would work well as it fits in the wear platform
there things like click adjust these eliminate the wear but you need to to set it acurately on one rocker to
pre judge the number of clicks
there are some with a micrometer style barrel which is better so you close the gap then back off the 0.010" but they are more expensive and harder to find
most of my gagets stay in the unwanted draw and feelers used with care get my vote
if thats good waffle
pete
sound like the key is worn or from elswhere.
sorry not much help here, there are some good key /barrel shops but i dont have the contacts maybe a google search
others on here have suggestions im sure
its normal that it works for the seller but fails with the customer ....odd that !!!!
pete
Thats good
Ive used a similar product on the 2000 windscreen ( laminated) the PO hade run a deep wiper marking and the glass poilish has with a drill and buff pad pretty well removed it
pete
Going poly is may be the best compromise ,
stiffer than the orig, made to control the rack abutements like the originals
there are wider alloys about that dont allow the shift problem , dont know whose .
The joys of classic car hobbies, deep pockets, strong tea bags, and I dont belive it previous owners.
keep at it all will turn out smiles before long,,,,,, sometimes very long Ha
you may now need to adjust the needles for a nice idle mixture.
pete
As its stood all that time I woild as a matter of coarse rebuild the master cyl or fit a new replacement
it may be the piston is stuck down the bore
13.60 is single line no pdwa valve to lock a system off.
pete
the master cyl pushrod must have some free play, with foot off it must be a rattling fit in the cylinder. if it doesnt fully return due to pedal seizure or
or brake switch is holding pedal off, then the reservoir will not refill the cyl and if the piston end reservoir seal is not seating you wont pump anything
just some ideas
Pete