Pete Lewis

Always Comp. test with all plugs out good battery, throttles open you can also raise the figures a little by raising the air pistons , you dont want any restrictions in air intakes or crank speeds , or starter energy. Wont be the first time the desperation changed an engine when a can of duff fuel was behind the problems, its just assumed to always be ok....... may be get some fresh and jockey tank the carb with some fresh. Pete

Bit to far to pop over ,, Do you have some compression test results do it with the plugs out and throttle open did this happen after a fill up,,, have you got some dodgy fuel ? pete

Stu, where abouts are you located .?? pete

they are the life and souls of the engine , i dont reckon to have ever had any plug problems for 40+ years but some recent events have got me worried Pete

why do you think its a Vitesse spring ??? what clues ?? Sticking clutch ...the hydraulics or the facing is stuck to the flywheel ?? drop plate idea of johns is sound advice certainly cost effective and not that hard to fit Pete sent you a mail

I have a set of crystal lamps on my Mk2 off ebay , ones without the side lamp ,they are brilliant. in would suspect the bulb is not fitted quite right if there is a poor defined beam cut off and no light spread Pete

I have been trying to solve a friends spitfire which seems to develop a fueling faul followed by new ngk plugs failing , , change the plugs and she fine for a few days and the misfire returns plugs look fine but appear to short circuit the electrode tip , so dont rely on plug testers you may be getting good HT but no spark at the tip just a thought pete

Check the dizzy spindle has no wear and has side float, this upsets the points gap when running. check the small flexible wire that earths the moving plate to the dizzy case. fit new spark plugs check coil HT terminal has no green down inside remove dizzy cap and hold coil ht lead 10mm above the rota, get it cranked over , if spark jumps to the rota its failed, if it doesnt consider it to be ok does the lift pump give a good well defined spurt into a jar when cranking or idling or a feeble dribble

they are in the WSM but need a engine number or dizzy spec number to give the correct figures i guess its going to be Lucas 45D6 41452 fitted from engine numnber ME92301 or 45D6 41621 fitted from ML20001 do you have an engine number if the dizzy is coming up with blankety blank ???

I had this on my Vit6 we slotted the bracket fixings that mount the brkt to the bulkhead platform and they were opened up to about 1/2" slots , from memory the back stop is the pushrod up against the cylinder end washer and circlip, so moving the cylinder should change the pedal height Dont go so far that the pushrod free float is lost undo the bracket and move the cyl so you can see what you get and which way to move it dont do this with the brake as more pedal loads , and note the brake bracket has a stiffening bridge peice across the bracket, the clutch doesnt, otherwise the bkts are looking similar they often get cross mixed. While your under there have alook at the brake pedal switch the pedal should land on the switch fixing nut and not rely the switch plunger , this causes a lot of switch failures as the pedal retuurn blows the switch apart The aftermarket plastic unit should have a long nut on this . many use a land rover near equivalent cylinder and these need a pushrod change to the original pete

Some grease on the bearings may improve it some have used VW fans but I guess many eurobox motor can be adapted pete

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm The needle valves dont last for ever and on later carbs its easy for the float to be fitted upside down as it has two needle arms Have a read through this site and make sure no gasket or air cleaner is obstructing the front face ports check the diaphragm for small splits if its grown wash in petrol will return it to size pete Pete

Just rebuilt a single rail and j type for an area car that cast iron clutch hsg on the 4 pot is a manic heavy lump of old iron on any Od box its worth tack welding the two mounting bolts into the mount base there is little room to fit any socket or ground down spanner to fit in and hold thd bolt heads A wonderous design then its easy to nip the nuts up from down under pete

here's an old favourite, when ever you mess with the fuel hoses you cut a sliver of rubber off the inside of the hose with the inserting metal pipe these float back and forth till they end up stuck in the float valve, hence pump some fuel out the supply to let them out make sure there are no sharp cutting ends to the tubes Pete

Sounds like you have some debris in the back of the float needle valve, need to remove the valve and pump fuel, into a jar to flush the feed line., you can take this valve off on the car but may be easier with the carb on a bench remove the spark plugs and dry them , check the air filter is not fuel contaminated pete

On some trucks there is a bleed valve set in the top hose , bit like a screw in tyre valve idea. on most heralds a quick release of the top heater hose connection will allow air locks out just pull it apart a little and pop it on when coolant leaks out. Give it a fast idle at same time pete

if its on the pedal stop then one solution is to slot the cyl bracket and this allows some adjustment and it will raise the pedal but dont remove the pushrod free play must have a little slack with foot off. used good washers to support the slots. If you remove the cyl does the pedal then line up ? There are a multitude of nearly right after market alternatives out there , most need you to use the old push rod there could be a clue there . pete

The links should have the bonnet pivot on the single hole and the slots clamped to the dumb iron the wsm shows them upside down the parts list shows them correct with slots up Pete

may be we now need a Pet section ???? so its dump the hose then but how it circulates with the stat shut will remain one of lifes unkown none of the schematics show this . well i dont see it back to the cat food. maybe a cabonara with sprinkle of catnip Pete

yes early non heated manifold cars seem to have just heater connections from rear of head to valve and heater outlet to the under manifold return to the back of the pump no other complications , what happens when the stat is shut heck knows there are no circulation clues in any of my manuals only a rough clue on heated mani .

Looking at that its a delaney heater without a valve , so its a now available full flow heater box must be some clues elsewhere, the cats got me up early tearing around , must try some of her food , might liven me up a bit !! pete

Some marques wsm show the coolant flow , dont think triumph do , will have a search in the morning But tracing how the flow goes there must be a route to allow some flow from say the back of the head to the input to the pump when stat and heater is closed if you can fathom a way you can loose the extra pipe pete

From memory ??? the pipe acts as part of the bypass when the stat is closed , and heater closed A nice bit of polished copper tube would cope better with heat from the 4 2 1 Darren its looking good pete

Herts and Beds have a good range of Heralds, we meet at the Raven Hexton 8pm every fourth monday Maps in the area directory on the home page next meet is March 27th April 24th we had 36 members at the last meeting there will be a Herald whatever the weather pete

When refitting keep, engine high, you must get the clutch hsg parallel to the back plate just looking gives a false view, use two long studs in the back of the block to support the box and help alignment when its starts to re enter you check you are parallel use a bit of timber as a gap gauge to help see the gap is equal all round , it helps If its all fair and square it wil pop on easy pete