Pete Lewis

Dont jack the gear box raise the engine with a support under the back of the sump either in onto the cranckcase or a lock under the sump. Raise enough to be above the tunnel and prop or close to it. If the prop gets in the way , try tipping the coupling or remove the prop as lasf resort, once it exits the clutch you can lift the tail over the tunnel when its raised get a length of timber and lever between the chassis rail and the base of the box pry it rewards, as soon as a small gap appears at the back plate sit on floor and just pull it off quick dont let it hang on the clutch, you may need to rotate to get the clutch hsg under the dash Removing the rubber cotton reels make rearwards travel easier DO NOT lever the enging back plate these bend easy and then you get clutch failures due to misalignments

They should all work ok providing the jet bore the needle , the piston weight, and damper spring all meet the oe spec they should be fine where you get cd cds cdse then the evolved differences need correcting you may not get the right biased top adjusting needle spec to be as a fixed needle you can use two cds both with a choke starting valve and that works ok you can get different piston weights and spring wire diameters its down to knowing what spec you need and making what you have on the car match that.. whether its a Cd fixed needle with a thames barrier choke , a CDS with a starting valve and base jet adjustment( prefered) or a CDSE or later with all the bells and whistles the base carb Still all do the same job if you convert either to the base triumph spec temperature compensators can be reset to the book with a lot of faffing and tempersture measuring of cork the bl*ody things shut needle selections for pancakes etc are unlikely to be found , some changes to SU to get a range of needles but cock it up sucking hot air ,

it can all be a bit tight, cant see why anyone would shim the engine mount platorms, , i have seen various things added to ease a tight fitting 6 3 1 manifold but should not be required on a std car. if its the hose clip fouling turn it to have the screw under the hose , has the hose been fitted with a upward twist, it should curve down to the radiator the bonnet height can be adjusted under the underrider is a slotted link you can raise the front height up from the apron , but this wil give a taper to the door front edge. to reduce the bonnet to bulkhead turn the turnbuckle barrel nuts on the rods to the turrets these have lh and rh threads which will increase or decrease the gap . Pete

SE were never used on Vitesse as far as i recall, the vents are for sealed crank case breather systems you could pipe with a tee into the rocker port and dump the smiths valve and plug the manifold tapping but a plug with a simple plastic cap would be neater than a bolt you could just tube the two together looks better but keeps them from sucking air . xif the oil filler and any other open to suck air are not 'sealed' then you dont want these connected unless you like a really lean mixture and endless setting problems so bit of hose to siamese them is the simplest option Pete

Reminds me of the old ford vacuum powered wipers open the throttle up hills and they ground to a halt down hill and throttled back they went crazy .... looney design. will hunt the 2nd flasher on my mk2 its been up in the air for a few days while I whipped the sump off to change the thrust washers.. Will have a look today pete

new nuts always finish a job off. get a good supply of nuts bolts and washers and a nice rack with all the sizes marked easter present !!!!! Pete

You slipped, Needs some shiny nuts on the shocker stem pete

If you get any bubbles entering the filter then you are sucking air from a leaky joint or hose between filter and pump if there is just a void /air gap in the filter ,,, dont worry about it its fine your output to the carbs is a good squirt then all happy and smiling Think about your modern it has a solid metal canister filter , you cant see whats going on and hence cant worry about it pete

The only way is mount the filter vertical so the air , gas, flatulence , exits up the pipe line and out through to the vent ... in the carb

trouble with upside down is the electrolyte makes a mess thats a positive or negative thought

I have had a chat with Bern and yes the workshop is limited and far too small to do much what he wants to do is erect one of the LeMans tents in the carpark and maybe do a BBQ and open the shop this would enable a much bigger audience etc. I will still do a at home twiddle day based on the interest so far and put some time into developing a what and when up at HQ so its watch this space Pete

My ceteck packed up and a lidl unit for £12 is working well, you have to set the mode for car when connecting but for a fraction of the cost is a good unit. you dont want to up the capacity too much battery life is much better if the cells are cycled from charging to discharging keeps the plates working , if its too big you dont get a ballanced use and cells will die early through lack of use If I sit on a cold floor I dont start too well either pete

If its unwanted gases im told you can take tablets for it !!!

There are places that re anodise have no idea how that looks and dont know who does it. Out of interest a few years ago club had the section extruded but it proved impossible to form the corners bends without destroying the section.. so the project stalled. Pete

its part number PS1103 front of oil gallery,, hardware catalogue confirms its 1/2"unf plug... Pete

if you remove the top cover and pull out the piston and spring you will see down the dashpot oily bore at the bottom is a hex key nut arrangement which is held in place with a sprag washer best way to visualise this is on the buckeye site but you have to remove all the adjuster assy and needle to get at the markings on the head of the needle as these are CDSE i doubt anyone has ever attempted this without some moral support !!! and i would hazard a guess that you have std needles , there are very limited alternatives available so.... unless you realy have tot dont go there !!!!! even searching around getting the real whats supposed to be fitted is a chore here a good read http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/AdjNeedle/AdjNeedle.htm

on mine there is a redundant flasher unit mount pop riveted to the back face of the glove bocx, stick hnd up back should find it, no idea why its there. if hazard and direction indicator are giving the same problem its likely to be in the foundation rather than a 'unit' fail have you checked the base battery voltage??? the flasher and hazard have the hazard switch as a common link , but a daft thought has some previous picked a ignition feed from a blasted 6v coil feed ???? off the ign switch ???

begin to think you like 'shiny' its looking good Pete

Found a clip on the back of the glove box on my mk2 not used but its flasher can sized If you have two,,,,,,, one is for hazards....... do they work ???

Is it a rythmical misfire or a random all over the place pete

There could problems with using Hq the small workshop is only got planning permision to repair museum cars i will check with Bern I prefer to do twiddling at home as I know what and where tools and clues are . this is taking off well. I will make up, a list of a few requests and pick a date pete

Might be worth check the float needle is opening and check the pump is not full of debris, use a bike pump to blow the pipe out , back to the tank old fuel goes stale, what was in the tank , it may be past its best. remove air filter , make sure the gaskets and filters are not obstucting the ports in the carb front face these often get fitted upside down, check firing order 1342 anticlockwise on the dizzy cap

In general there are 2 possibles 3/8" x24 unf 7/16" x 20 unf pete

Its important .......we need to know what flavour talc you used !!!!!!

Did it run lumpy before you changed parts or afterwards pete