The oldest owned was quite modern a 53 pahes 5 Hillman Minx, in fire engine red
the oldest I have driven was the 1913 Commer Car simon fire engine
wooden wheels solid tyres and 3 speed pre select gearbox column gear change
and a glass flow oil gauge, cranking her up was challenge, it once threw me across the workshop
she was in service at Chivers jam factory till around 1959
Chrysler take over sold the family silver and she disapeared , but has been seen on london brighton runs
I drove her round the factory when I was around 19 in 1964
I have also driven the Ecurie Ecosse Transporter out of silverstone with the cars ontop before she was sold .
jus more waffle
pete
A steam lance is used in manufacturing so a it of bundy to make a lance connected to a wallpaper stripper will work well on wrinkles, poke it up under the cover
they dont like it up em !
Dont use a hot air gun,,, too hot
Pete
If you sense a noisy one use a old feeler with engine running , ifit goes quiet expect the wear to
have upset your feeler feel.
on the bright side a noisy one with a actual gap is better than a tight one without enough gap
Pete
You set a tappet to the desired gap, with feelers
Fit the click and turn it to zero the clearance and count the clicks as you turn the knob.
so next rocker fully up you turn to zero clearance and unscrew the number of counted clicks
you should end up with the previous desired feeler clearance
Well something like that
pete
my dark blue is the 2000/2500 manual and its ok in there
leon always had a plan on the old forum (dont read too much into this idea )
15 to young 36 too old 24 just right helps you remember ha !
Pete
Theres no torque given in any triumph manuals
my father in law always stripped or sheared the tappet screws on his cortina, hence the gorilla notes
only the spherical tip is hardened the threads are just normal ,
if you take a full 5/16 nut hard face fixing as 18 to 20lbft then a half nut max is 10 lbft
and possibly a bit less
pete
Dave,The nuts are only half thickness so a light nip with a normal spanner is all thats needed ,
they only have to hold the screw from being turned by action of the revolving followers and push rod
many get done up by a gorilla and then they are hard to undo , the threads get stretched and
they are stiff to adjust on the tappet screw
you need to do many many miles to see recession most wont ever find it
the wear under the rocker will give a stepped face which most feelers will bridge so checking the actual gap can be difficult, dont see them around much but a wire feeler would work well as it fits in the wear platform
there things like click adjust these eliminate the wear but you need to to set it acurately on one rocker to
pre judge the number of clicks
there are some with a micrometer style barrel which is better so you close the gap then back off the 0.010" but they are more expensive and harder to find
most of my gagets stay in the unwanted draw and feelers used with care get my vote
if thats good waffle
pete
sound like the key is worn or from elswhere.
sorry not much help here, there are some good key /barrel shops but i dont have the contacts maybe a google search
others on here have suggestions im sure
its normal that it works for the seller but fails with the customer ....odd that !!!!
pete
Thats good
Ive used a similar product on the 2000 windscreen ( laminated) the PO hade run a deep wiper marking and the glass poilish has with a drill and buff pad pretty well removed it
pete
Going poly is may be the best compromise ,
stiffer than the orig, made to control the rack abutements like the originals
there are wider alloys about that dont allow the shift problem , dont know whose .
The joys of classic car hobbies, deep pockets, strong tea bags, and I dont belive it previous owners.
keep at it all will turn out smiles before long,,,,,, sometimes very long Ha
you may now need to adjust the needles for a nice idle mixture.
pete
As its stood all that time I woild as a matter of coarse rebuild the master cyl or fit a new replacement
it may be the piston is stuck down the bore
13.60 is single line no pdwa valve to lock a system off.
pete
the master cyl pushrod must have some free play, with foot off it must be a rattling fit in the cylinder. if it doesnt fully return due to pedal seizure or
or brake switch is holding pedal off, then the reservoir will not refill the cyl and if the piston end reservoir seal is not seating you wont pump anything
just some ideas
Pete
ive got in the dust a Mityvac pump to vacuum, and a ford derived electric pressure pumped bleeder
by the time you get it all together a length of tube and a pedal assistant works so much easier
one tip keep the tube and jar high above the nipple
in on production we had a evacuate and fill which was utopia take it to zero HG then with no leak detected it self filled to the reservoir level
never failed but not so easy to DIY.
to make a ezibleed just plug the tube and add a 25mm slit witha sharp blade and you have the simplest one way valve.
I have always been a down quick .,, back slow
this forces the stuck bubbles out and back slow lets the recuperation take place rather than air sucked back from a nipple ...read what you like into that, whatever your mind is thinking
Pete
There seems some oddities have occured from thendark or light side of wherever
spoke to Garth today and he has fwd this post to the webmasters to see if there is a gremlin lurking
within the e mail system,
so dont know if its me colin them or us but dont stop trying
pete
there will be std needles available both have limited clearance with the turret and need a thin airbox and tubed filter on the saloons dont know how that stacks up on a GT6 as soon as you use orrible pancakes you need needle or spring options to compensate for the lower intake depression.